Correction: Doc's foam recommendation appears under the "Hi-density foam for Weave Jigs" topic on page 2, for those interested. Stan
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Doc, thanks again for that great tip on foam to use for weaving jigs. Weave jig builders, Doc's suggestion is on page 2, under the "Foam for Weaving Jig" query. Stan
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Thanks for the info, Doc. I have a friend who supplys ortho shoes (a podiatrist) and a few that are in orthopedics. Will check with them. Thanks again for that great tip. Today, while at WalMart, I saw some clogs (shower/beach shoes) and the soles seemed to be of fairly high density, so I bought a pair and cut the soles up with a bandsaw. Waiting for the glue-up to cure. I think that foam
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What is the best material to use when building your own weaving jigs? And where do you fine it? Thanks to Mick, I've made a few jigs. I used "Fun Foam" from WalMart/Michaels, glued-up. Works pretty good but wondered it there was something better. Thanks for any advise. Stan
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Tom, Check at Lowe's. They have Titebond III. I've been using Titebond II and it seems to work well. When I run out, I'll use the III. Years ago, used Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue on wood and liked it. Haven't tried it yet on cork, but will. Stan
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I've just started learning to weave and used Jim Upton's article ( RodMaker Vol 5, Issue #4) as a guide. It was a highly useful article for me. There is a print error (in line 13.) of the left list for "skull & crossbones" pattern, corrected in Vol 5, Issue # 5. RodMaker Volume 6, #5 also has a good article by Mr. Upton. Wove my first pattern today, and am pleased with the r
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I attended the show last year and was highly impressed. It was difficult to take in all that was available. And this year's show is even bigger, by a large margin. In my opinion, it is the "must go to" event. It has so many features in addition to the show, that you can't go wrong. The seminars alone are worth the cost of admission. Can hardly wait for it to come around. Stan
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I got a CJ3-4 chuck a year ago and it seems to work fine. There were no insturctions about filing down the jaws, so maybe the jaws were pre-machined as an improvement. I use it on a Jet lathe. Agree with Hank - there are much better chucks available, but at a much higher price tag. Stan
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I got a CJ3-4 chuck a year ago and it seems to work fine. There were no insturctions about filing down the jaws, so maybe the jaws were pre-machined as an improvement. I use it on a Jet lathe. Agree with Hank - there are much better chucks available, but at a much higher price tag. Stan
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Fred, I put the Pac Bay up-grade powerhead on my homemade wrapper about a month ago and haven't had the problems you describe. I'm well pleased with it. Tne one you received might be defective. Stan
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John, Found some 1/4" masking tape at an auto paint supply store and it seems to work well - "Scotch Masking Tape - Pressure Sensative for Professional Auto Refinishing 233". It's 1/4 in X 60 yd. Hope this helps. Stan
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Please add me to the list requesting weaving jig plans. Thanks, Stan
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What I didn't get was a digital camera. Thought I'd made that clear to my spouse of coming up on 43 years. Think the old gal is getting hard of hearing. Guess I'll just have to go out to Best Buy and get one. Stan
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I also like the Dremel with diamond disk as Myles mentioned. The flexible shaft Dremel is what I use. For small guides, the nylon bolts are real handy. Stan
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First a thin coat of LS Hi-Build over the decal area, cured overnite. Then MicroSol, decal and a thicker coat of LS Hi-Build. Stan
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The eyes have it. I'm beginning to sound like Putter and Bill, and that's not bad. Stan
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Sounds like a really good technique. Thanks for sharing it. Stan
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Lowe's has rolls of sheet cork as well as packages pf cork. The cork in the package is about 3/16" X 12' x 12". As Phil mentioned, just cut it up into 1.5" squares and drill a hole in it or use a gasket punch to cut a circle. It glues up well and makes a nice looking fore/rear grip. I like to glue them up into blocks using about 8 thicknesses of cork material using Titebond II o
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I have both dial & digital calipers but prefer the digital as it is much easier to read. It also converts from metric to inches at the push of a button. Got both from Harbor Freight a few years ago and each was very reasonably priced. The digital display blinks when the battery starts to get low so you know when to stop-off at Radioshack. Stan
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I'm a fairly new builder - 3 years, give or take a year. The approach I took was to try to use every resourse available for learning things pertaining to rodbuilding. RodMaker Magazine and this board have been treasured resources for me as I try to "get better" at the craft. There's no better sources of information and general sharing of information that I've found. Great resource
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