Donald R Campbell Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I agree with building on the straightest axis, > (curve of blank placed up). > > Several years ago, I built a St Croix SC V for a > customer whom I have built many rods. I placed the > casting guides on the outside of the spline curve. > When he picked up the rod and sighted down the
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William, thanks for the heads up about the 5 minute epoxies not being as pliable as a slower curing epoxy. That's definitely something I'll store in the memory banks. But considering where the crack is, the blank bending where I'll be making the repair, won't be a problem. It's only a little more than 2" long and starts right at the edge of the butt. One problem I am finding though, is a
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Bill, thank you for responding. You're right, prepping the inside of the damaged blank as well as the blank section to be used as the insert wasn't mentioned. Definitely a good idea. Thank you. Very much appreciated.
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John, Tom, and Don. Thank you for the great suggestions. Don, I hadn't thought of drilling the small hole to stop possible lengthening of the crack. That is something I'll definitely do. And John, I also hadn't thought of wrapping tape around the blank so the cracked portion of blank wouldn't expand during the epoxying process. Yet another thing I'll definitely do. And Tom ... as always, th
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I would think blank choice would depend on whether or not the rod is going to be a dedicated frog rod, or if the rod was going to see other duties such as a heavy cover jig or Carolina rig rod. If strictly a dedicated frog rod, then IMO the need for a high modulus blank would be pretty much non existent. Frog fishing can put a rod under some pretty substantial loads, with the rod in some not
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Hi everyone, I'm looking for some suggestions on repairing the butt of a rod blank that was crushed at some point in it's life time. I say crushed, not because the blank is no longer round. I say crushed because it has a crack that is 2 3/16" long, that extends from the butt's edge, up into the blank. It's a high mod, very thin wall blank. And while I know I could just trim that portion of t
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Adam, as a newbie myself, I was in the same boat as you. I watched videos on YouTube of people doing wraps with power wrappers and I thought, how sweet that would be. And some day I may actually step up to a power wrapper, but being a newbie, I need things to move at a slower pace. I'm older, so my eyes aren't that good, and for example .... using black size A thread and doing wraps on a black
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Trip, I know what you mean about the start up costs associated with rod building. To make a long story short .... I built my own hand wrapper, and motorized rod dryer. I was lucky and had a lot of the material on hand for the wrapper and rod dryer, All I had to buy was some basic hardware. I got the motor for the rod dryer from a defunked microwave. The chuck for the rod dryer I made from a PVC p
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I'm new to rod building, and I wondered the same things as you've been wondering. For me personally, I go through a process to determine the amount of taper the blank has. It's not a hard or complicated procedure, and it would be much easier if all of the measurements supplied for each part of a rod blank, and each component used the same type of measurement. For instance, a blank's tip measu
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I gotta agree. That thing is awesome. I'll be building my first spinning rod ever, and I have no doubt the KR GPS is going to have me using a great performing rod. Kudos to Fuji for continually trying to present better products for the rod making industry. Their reputation of excellence is well deserved. If I were Mr. Jim Ising, I would be proud to work for such a company.
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Mihalyfalvi , thanks for responding, I really appreciate you taking the time, and you did help. And based on yours and Jim's recommendations and explanations I'll go with the KB. And Jim, thank you for responding as well. As always, I truly appreciate itYou being in the position you are in, would be the one that would know if the two frames are the same. Their looking different too me is pro
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Tom, thank you for your response and the confirmation that my thinking was along the same lines. When I put the 10 - 14# mono line selection in, it gave me the larger sized rings I suspected it would. I truly appreciate it. Ernest. I truly appreciate you taking the time to respond to my question. Thank you. I have additional questions if I may? They're not to question your recomendations, they
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I'm new to rod building, and while I feel I have a fairly good understanding of the mechanics of casting rod guide trains, I am almost completely clueless when it comes to spinning rods and their guide trains. Despite a rather spirited debate in another thread concerning the KR Concept GPS, I for one love it !!! Anything that works well enough to give a beginning rod builder a good performing ro
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I thought acetone was bad for graphite rod blanks?
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I'm pretty new to all of this, but just from a mechanical standpoint, I wouldn't think the line going below the blank on a casting rod would be a good thing. Especially near the tip where the diameter of the blank and the wall thickness of the blank are smaller. The line dropping below the blank is going to cause the tip to bend more severely and cause a condition similar to high sticking a r
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Edgar, I use LS Supreme as well, and as everyone has suggested, I think it's the heating you're doing to the mixed epoxy. It's causing it to set up quicker. A few weeks ago I had a problem with bubbles forming in my first coat of finish. I had heated the resin pre mixing to make it easier to draw into the syringe. That heat was there when I mixed the two parts. I thought the bubbles were caus
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Tom, thank you for your response. Sorry about the long post. I have a tendency to do that because I'm trying to provide as much information, or as much of my thoughts as I can, so as to hopefully not miss mentioning something that may affect the answers you fine gentleman supply. Geoff, thank you as well for our response. And yes, your response does help as I'll be downloading that spreadshee
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Robert, thank you for listing that RodMaker Magazine article information. It is much appreciated. Joe, Tom, Jim, Bill, and Geoff ..... wow, and awesome. Thank you guys very much as well. I truly appreciate your responses. I'm glad this has turned into a bit of a discussion, because I'm still a little confused. First ... Joe. For some reason, (that reason being a gaseous discharge of the bra
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Tom, thank you very much for your response. I was hoping and counting on you to be one of the people that could help me make sense of these numbers. You're definitely right when you say "define medium light power". I can't. It's different for every manufacturer, and from my experience, it's even different for different rods series from the same manufacturer. Thank you again Tom. I t
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I need some help. I'm going to be ordering a Pac Bay Quickline blank from Utmost Enterprises in the near future. Since Pac Bay lists the CCS numbers instead of lure weight ratings and blank actions in their catalog for their Quickline blanks, I decided to take some CCS numbers of one of my factory rods that has the type of action I'm looking for, and compare them to the numbers for the Quickline
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It's been a couple of days since I checked back on this thread. Joe, while building this first rod, I definitely learned that the static test has a broader application than I once thought it did. I thought it was only about guide placement between the butt guide and the tip top. On the rod I just completed, I had planned on using a #8 as the butt guide. I say "planned on" because I e
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Welcome Ed. Having just recently finished my first complete rod build, I'm one of the new crowd you speak of. I can tell you this, you have come to the right place. This place is a wealth of knowledge, with members such as Donald Campbell who posted earlier, that are quite willing to help a "newbie" out. Donald, as well as many other members have freely shared their thoughts and mad
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Correct me if I'm wrong or if I'm over complicating things ... but doesn't the distance of the butt guide from the front of the reel's line guide depend on a few things? The number one thing being the height of the guide frame as it relates to the height of the line guide of a reel when it's mounted to the rod? Or more accurately, the height of the inside diameter of the guide ring? The greater t
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I made my own reamers out of pieces of old fishing rod blanks, using rubber cement. It worked beautifully once I I got the right kind of cement. Don't expect to buy rubber cement from a craft store and have it work, because I won't. At least it didn't for me. Go to a Lowe's or Home Depot or that type of store and buy a good heavy duty contact cement if you want the job to last. I used sanding
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The line level on a reel foot that Randolph mentioned works really well. Even though reel seats seem to all have a mold line in their center, they can be hard to sight unless you mark it with a china marker. Even then you're still counting on your judgement if it's straight up and down. I had an old reel laying around that I just cut the foot off the frame and epoxied the line level right to t
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As Roger said, it's probably true. I'm sure suppliers are made aware of an item that is going to be discontinued. Fuji recently came out with an improved aluminum oxide ring material that they're using in their "O" Concept guides. Pricing is in line with their Hardaloy line of guides. If the order in which they list their ring materials is in a good, better, best progression. The &q
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Russ, like you, on bait casting gear I palm my reel, but you can't palm the reel on a spinning reel during a retrieve, so the comfort of the material used for the handle has to be considered. Not just the material, but the size and the properties of the material. Too small and it causes discomfort holding the material. Too slick and it could cause you to grip it tighter, which if it isn't immedia
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Joe, I was the one that said the hardest material. A graphite reel seat definitely has properties more similar to the blank, than cork. And while I'm sure cork wins the battle in the weight category over a full reel seat. It doesn't win the battle in transfer of vibrations. I have spinning rods with skeleton reel seats that use cork inserts between the sections of the reel seat. Both up lockin
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Roger, I'm sure you'd agree that any material between the blank and your hand, is going to reduce feel? And that the harder a material, the better it will transmit vibrations? I'm certainly not disparaging the use of cork as a grip material. It's beautiful, it's light, and it's comfortable, but it's not the best material for transmitting vibrations. And I don't doubt that you can catch as
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Joe ..... no worries sir. I took no offense to your post about using the proper word to describe something. I'm sure you know me well enough to know that I'm picky about some of the things people say on OGF. For instance, when someone calls cover, structure. Or my all time favorite " a longer rod gives an angler more leverage when fighting a fish. So I completely understand. I definitely
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