By "soft tip" do you mean an extra fast action, or just a blank that loads nicely in the upper portion of the blank, before transitioning into a powerful back bone? If it's the latter description, then I'd suggest the Immortal IMMC72MH. I just completed a build on that blank about a month ago with the intended purpose of the rod being a Carolina rig / deeper water football jig / flipp
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Gary, I couldn't agree more on the Immortal blanks. I've only built on one thus far, and I'll definitely be building on more of them in the future. They are phenomenal.
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Probably the most versatile type of rod you could build for the bait you mentioned would be a spinning rod, simply because you'd be able to handle a wider variety of worm types. As has been said, casting a 5" Senko is no problem on casting gear, but trying to throw a Zoom Trick Worm or other fairly light worm on casting gear is going to present a problem. As far as wondering if 6' of rod
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Pat, when people say don't get into rod building if you're expecting to save money, they're looking at it from different perspectives. If you're only going to build a few rods, their cost will be higher because you have to factor in the cost of the equipment you'll need for initial start up. Same as when you started brewing, I'm sure. If you can make a lot of your equipment like I did, then of co
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I just started building this year, and as usual Tom has hit the nail on the head. The angle of the thread as it goes on the wrap, for me anyhow, is the key to tight wraps. Like he said, it's a fine line between wraps that need to be packed, and over winding a wrap. When wrapping guides that have more space between them, I just slide the rod a little to try and keep the proper angle. As I get
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Roger, thank you very much for the additional response, and the time saving tips. They are very much appreciated. So far I've only built two rods that are same, and the second build went much quicker. Mostly because of some tips I had seen given you and others, in other threads on this site. For instance, the use of stretchable thread to secure the guides while doing static testing, shaved at
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Wow, lots of good replies. Sorry I haven't been able to get back to them sooner. I had a few things come up with my boat, that I had to attend to. First let me say thank you to everyone that has replied since my last post to this thread. A lot of good things to think about, that's for sure. Randolph, I hear what you're saying about not trying to compete with the prices of factory rods. I w
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Bill .... once again I was typing a response as you were posting yours. First off let me say thank you very much for taking the time to respond. And your way of thinking is not controversial at all. At least not to me. It was actually a philosophy I developed when I had my carpentry business, and one that I still use to this day when asked to do a side job. I no longer do carpentry. I work in
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Hey there Joe. Sorry ... I didn't see your reply as I was typing mine to the previous responses. Thank you very much for your response. As I got the blank, and some of the components from Utmost (who rock BTW lol) I received their normal discounts on those items. MSRP would have pushed my total materials cost, about $40 higher. I like the idea of the wiggle room. I know when I was doing this
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Tom and Victor, thank you both very much for your responses. I truly do appreciate them. Tom, the price you mentioned is about what I expected for a number on the high side. Definitely not what I would think would be an unreasonable number by any means. Especially considering the way the rod performs. Thank you again for your response. Victor, yes that is retail price for the parts, and yo
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I got the idea for this thread from another recent thread where a member was wondering if he were to use a blank in the $50 price range to build a rod, would it compare to a $200 factory rod. His thread, and some of the questions I've gotten from friends and family got me wondering ..... how much would one of the rods I've built, cost me to have someone build? So I'd like to lay out my most r
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Bill, I interpreted it as if you were building a rod for yourself, and what the comparative value would be at retail prices. Like ....... would a rod that had a total cost of materials of say .....$100, perform like a factory rod that retailed for $200. If you're building it for yourself, cost of labor is not a factor. And I'm in total agreement with Garry on using Utmost. They're awesome to
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Pat, I just started building my own rods this year, and I used an MHX SJ783 for that build. The 783 is 6" shorter than the SJ843, but I would assume they have the same attributes. If so, then you'll be happy with the blank. It should be a nice light weight blank, with good sensitivity, and good power. My only suggestion would be that you ask Mud Hole to take the blank out of its plastic shea
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I'm just curious as to how much weight you had to add? I built two spinning rods recently, and only needed to add the weight of a 4" piece of an old rod blank, plus the foam reel seat arbor that I glued the scrap piece of blank into, and then that assembly, into the butt of the rod. My guess is it was less and 1/4 oz. My latest build, a 7'2" casting rod, needed a bit of weight to get
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I'm glad my review was well received. I see so many threads with members asking for blank suggestions for the same type of rod, that I felt I had to share. That and I am just so ecstatic with the way this rod performs that I had to tell someone. lol I know one thing for sure ...... anyone looking to build a rod that this blank would be appropriate for, will absolutely love the way their rod p
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I thought I'd give a performance review of the blank I used for my most recent build, just in case anyone has been thinking about building a rod on the above mentioned blank I finished the rod this past week, and used it for the first time, in a two day bass tournament I fished over the weekend. I built the rod for use as a Carolina rig / deep water football jig / pitching and flipping rod. T
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Considering myself a pretty serious and experienced bass fisherman, Joe's earlier statement that some people argue that a tip light worm rod, meaning slack line presentations, will help with bite detection, is spot on. I am one of those that will argue the case that it does. And really, IMO it isn't even an argument. Plain and simple. It helps. As Joe said, bite detection with slack line techn
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I did a little testing just to see what the difference in the IP of a rod would be using the entire length of the blank as the base number, as in the CCS. Versus using the "working" rod length as defined in Jim's post in this thread. As expected, the numbers were quite different, When using the entire length of the blank as prescribed in the CCS, the rod I tested had an IP numbe
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Phil, my mistake. I meant to say tungsten. lol I must have had the titanium color of the blank in mind. Sorry for the confusion.
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Phil, the rod I mentioned in my last post that will probably need some weight added to the butt to balance it out, will be a casting rod. It's going to be a 7'2" rod using a split rear grip, with the grip material being EVA foam. It's also a split reel seat, so that's even less weight. I may not need to add the estimated 3/8 oz. that I mentioned in my prior post, but I doubt I'll be able to
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Joe, thanks for the response. I truly appreciate it. I like the way you handled the balancing issue. And while it may not look pretty, it looks cool, and has the ability to be adjusted in the future if need be. Something my procedure wouldn't have. And even though I don't have plans of changing the reels I use on my rods, we all know how best laid plans can go sometimes. adjust-ability is definit
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Greg, that is something I wondered about when I used the KR GPS to help with the two spinning rods I've built. I realize the number of running guides is merely a suggested number of guides, but how can it make a suggestion when the power and action of the blank are not considered in the equation. It's great software though. At least I found it to be. The rods I built using the sizes and measu
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I'd have to agree with those questioning why the position of the handle has anything to do with the working length of a rod? The entire length of a lever, is that lever's working length. The fulcrum is merely a pivot point, and in no way changes the lever's working length. And I'd also love to see CCS numbers given by every blank and rod manufacturer. At least then I'd know what to expect when
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Other than lighter materials that will perform the same job as heavier materials of the same dimension being more expensive to produce, part of the added expense is in the engineering of the product. Regardless of how strong a material is, if it's not engineered properly it will fail, or won't perform up to its potential. Country of origin also has a lot to do with it. As far as the balance o
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A sharply folded paper towel, wet but not dripping wet with denatured alcohol held partially wrapped around the blank and then slid into position also results in beautifully sharp edges. At least that's what I've found easiest for me.
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Amen on the quick shipping. I ordered a blank and some components Monday, and they were delivered to my house today. No special request or additional charges for expedited shipping. Washington to Ohio in 4 days from time of ordrer. If that isn't special enough ... a 7'2" rod blank and components shipped the above mentioned distance, for $16.27. That's just crazy good.
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I just wanted to take the oportunity to say how outstandingthe service and the folks at Utmost Enterprises are. Especially Carol. I talked to her on the phone for the first time, a couple of days ago ..... what an awesome lady. Kind, considerate, caring, and definitely on top of her game. You're not just an account number when you deal with Carol. You're a person and a valued customer. She's Wond
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Nate, having only built 4 rods thus far, I'm still pretty much a newbie. My last two builds were spinning rods, and I used the KR GPS software on the Angler's Resource web site, and let it tell me the guide sizes as well as their locations. The rods perform beautifully. Casting much better than any factory rod I've ever owned. You should definitely give it a try. At the very least, it will give y
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Just to clarify my earlier post. I didn't meant to imply that a rod needs to be balanced for every circumstance. If you're throwing crankbaits or swim jigs, or using any other technique where the bait is being kept in constant motion, a balanced rod doesn't mean a whole lot. But IMO, if you're fishing slack line techniques ... drop shot, shaky head jigs, or pretty much any kind of pitching or
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As for a blank for the purpose you mentioned. You said you wanted to try an Immortal or an Eternity2 blank. Why not try one for this build? I just ordered some components from Utmost and Mud Hole to build the type of rod you're looking to build. I plan on using mine for Carolina rigging, and heavier football jigs in deeper water, and the rod will also be used for pitching to shallow cover when a
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