John, with the 580 gram IP you posted for the rod, I would definitely agree. I like IPs of 550 - to maybe 600 for fishing tube jigs and light Texas rigs. 600 would be pushing it for a normal shaky head, but certainly not a magnum size shaky head. I usually fish tube jigs on one of the casting rods I have, built on an SJ 736 X ray blank. With IPs pretty much right at 730, a lot of people would pr
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Lynn, thanks for the reply brother, I really appreciate it. Ken, thank you for the reply as well. Much appreciated. And the thread isn't NPC, it's just regular Pro Wrap nylon. As I said in the opening post, I like the color shift and translucency that finish over regular nylon gives to wraps. As to your question concerning the lighter shades and their color shift. I don't know that I coul
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David, thanks for looking, and glad you found it helpful. And like you, I can't figure out how to put a picture directly to the page. And if I could I'm not sure how large they would be, so not wanting to take up a lot of page space, I opted for the links. Also I made some changes. It wasn't very cool of me to say that if people wanted to see what color the thread is prior to putting finish on it
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Norman, I must have been seeing things, and you are absolutely right (of course you are, you would know lol) ....... I just went back through all of the pages in the CCS data base thread and see that you only have one data entry in it on page 2, and it does not contain the MB 733 X ray. My sincere apologies. I tell ya ...... I just don't know how I could have made that mistake. I know I saw
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We all pretty much know that there is a shift in color from thread on the spool, to thread on the rod when you put finish on, without using CP or NCP thread. Personally, I like the looks of regular nylon thread with just finish on it, versus with CP, and finish on it. I just think it has a different luster. Myself and others have said how we plan on that color shift and translucency that stra
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Kevin, thank you for sharing the dimensions and CCS numbers you got for MB 733 X ray. I definitely find them interesting. The tip on mine is 5/64ths, but the butt is 15.5 mm (.611") I have two of the blanks, and both are the same dimensions. CCS numbers I got for both blanks, BTW, I posted the numbers for one of them in the CCS data base thread, but one has an IP of 557 grams, the other 552
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I don't use leaders anymore, but when I did, I never used a leader that was long enough to have the leader knot pass through even the tip top of the rod. I just didn't and don't like the idea of a knot passing through the guides while casting, let alone passing through the guides while fighting a fish, so worrying about a leader knot going that far onto the rod never crossed my mind. With tha
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Peter, the two MB733 X rays i received recently are both more powerful than what I was expecting them to be. As I mentioned above, the dimension of the two MB733 blanks I have are quite a bit different from what is posted for the blank on the NFC web site. The tip is only a half size larger than listed, which isn't all that uncommon from what I've experienced with my NFC blanks, but the butt diam
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I use fluorocarbon line on all but one of my rods. It's heavier than braid and nylon or co-polymer lines, so I'm not really worried about weight at the reel seat. And the only fluorocarbon line I use, is Tatsu, so I'm not really worried about cost either. But ...... in the name of saving a little money, I just won't buy those 6 packs of little Hostess chocolate covered donuts that I normally
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Chris Catignani Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ah...kudos for using metric. > One thing I like to do is look at the "difference" > between the guides. > > In your case above: > Spacing: > 9.5 - 10.8 - 12.1 - 13.3 - 14.6 - 17.0 > - 20.0 - 24.5 (cm) > Differences: 1.3 - 1.3 - 1.2 - 1.3 - 2.4 - 3 - > 4.5 >
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LOL Chris .... didn't think of that, did I? And here I was thinking I'm being all scientific by figuring out surface areas n junk, and I missed the most obvious part of the equation. Duh me ..... and nice catch !!!! LOL But yeah, still just splitting hairs
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Brent, if you don't have digital calipers, you'd be smart to get one. They allow you to measure anything you'll need to measure in basic rod building, like the size of blank tips, blank diameters at various places on the blank if you're planning on using a reel seat that needs fitted to the blank, etc ..... As far as the Vanfords...... no, I guess you can't have too many sweet reels. lol
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I have a polyurethane arbor for a 18mm reel seat. It's 4.25" long. The glue area of that arbor would be 9.35 square inches. Lets say the layer of epoxy needed to install that arbor is .020" thick. You'd need less than 2/10 of a cubic inch of epoxy to cover the entire surface of the arbor. I don't know how much 2/10 of a cubic inch of epoxy weighs, but as the entire arbor only weighs 4.3
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Have one I've been wanting to add, but wanted to get a few questions about it answered first NFC MB-733 X ray. IP 557 grams. AA, 76.4
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Seems this has become a debate concerning progressive and non progressive guide spacing. More in the running portion of the blank than in the portion of the blank where the reduction guides would be placed. At least I am talking about the running portion of the blank. Isn't the idea of static load guide placement, to put the guides where they need to be in order to distribute the stress on th
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Norman, you are da man !!!! Thank you very much sir. And now I feel more than a bit silly for not noticing the sizing spec link at the top of the product listing chart. Thanks again !!!!
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Brent, the tube I was speaking of for the tip top, is the actual tube of the tip top itself. A 5/64 ID, versus the 4.5/64 ID the web site has listed. As far as the Vanfords, you either replaced all your spinning reels with Vanford's, or you use a lot more spinning rods than I do. lol My other spinning reels are a 3000 series Saros, which is what the Ultegra replaced. A 3000 series Ultegra,
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I'm curious if anyone knows where I can find a chart for the heights of American Tackle guides? In particular, the TiForged TS-H high frame spinning guides, and the TS spinning guides? I've always used KR concept guide trains using Fuji KL-H guides on the spinning rods I've built and they cast beautifully. I thought I might try the American Tackle versions, but I want to be sure that their heig
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Brent, your reason for taking up rod building pretty much matches mine exactly. Spend $650 on a rod I could build for a little more than half the price? And I can build it better than the factories build them? Sign me up !!! As far as what you outlined using your SB 724 rod for, I don't do that kind of fishing, but I think its power will work out quite nicely. One thing I would suggest you d
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Gotta agree 100% with Spencer on the alcohol burner. I know others talk about using heat, but for me personally, using heat has caused more problems than its solved.
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If you have access to an 852 JWR, you can do the CCS tests yourself. They don't take an extravagant set up to do, and as the name says, can be done with pennies. If you're looking for IP in grams, just multiply the number of pennies by 2.5. I'm curious as to what you'll be using the rod you build on the SB 724, for? The reason I ask is, I see the 852 JWR is rated 1/8 - 3/8 with an extra fas
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I like the path of the line to follow the curve of the blank very closely, so I always opt for at least 2 more running guides than what the KR software calls for. Honestly, I stopped looking at how many running guides the KR software recommends because it is not enough to have the type of line path I prefer. For all I know I could be using 3 more running guides than it calls for. The only thi
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Hmmm ..... gonna have to retract what I said in my first post. I just spent about 30 minutes putting in different rod lengths, reel sizes, and line sizes, into the KR software. Only when I went to 10 - 14 lb mono, did I get a distance between the 3rd reduction guide and chokie guide, that was smaller than the distance between the 2nd reduction guide and the 3rd reduction guide. I use fluoroca
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Joshua, do exactly as Norman suggests and switch the last two measurements. And with that kind of spacing between the third reduction guide and the choke guide, it definitely is a glitch. Hard to say what the glitch is tied to, reel size, line size, rod length, etc .... but it's definitely a glitch. Like Michael said, I go exactly by the numbers the KR GPS spits out, and looking at the paper I
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Ryan, it's a shame that you can't go and actually check the blanks out in person. If you go with the RX10 ETES610MXF blank, I can guarantee one thing ........ you will absolutely love how sensitive the blank will be.
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The Revelation series of blanks are nice blanks, but they pale in comparison to the Eternity RX10 blanks. If you want a rod you will use and have for a long time, build it on the RX10 Eternity. As for the Eternity drop shot blank you mention, assuming you are talking about the ETES610MXF blank. I have not built on that particular blank, but I have built on the RX9 version of that blank. The R
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Chris, thanks for the additional response. Much appreciated. Prior to hitting the place order button, I took a closer look the pictures you provided and the picture of the seat on the Mud Hole web site and it was clear that it was probably the Bushido insert I was seeing. Thank you for clarifying that. As your pictures already showed a gap between a section of the reel seat's body, and the insert
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Chris, thank you very much for the reply, and the pictures. Love seeing what it actually looks like on a rod, and even better, what it looks like installed down locking. I'll be ordering at least one, and possibly two. A couple more questions? Is that the Bushido finish insert they offer, or is that the actual rod blank I am seeing in the reel seat? My plans are to go with a 17, with a couple
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I did a search on the site using the word "carp" and came up with a link to this thread . It has some links in it that may be of some help as far as blanks, reel seats, and guides. I've seen some people here at local lakes fishing for carp in the way they do in Europe. Definitely some interesting set ups they're using. And some specialized rods. Here in the states carp aren't as ....
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Chris? On that rod you built using the G2 Apex reel seat ..... did you build it up locking, or down locking? I really like the looks of the Apex but I don't like up locking reel seats. It looks like it would be fine to install it down locking, but I'd like to hear your opinion.
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