Thomas ...... you're sure right about that. It is a major color change. As to which I prefer personally .... I'm still up in the air on it. The previous color is more ..... I don't .... I guess refined is the word I was looking for. The newer color is definitely more bold. I've used the same wrap scheme on the Immortals I've built on so far. Black with a 3 wrap metallic silver trim band, and
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Gib, I'm curious as to the color of your 72MH blank? Is it more silver gray, or does it look more gray with a slight blueish tint to it? The reason I ask is ..... I built on that blank a couple of years ago, the blanks color was the more of a gray with a slight blueish tint. I am almost positive that the listed weight for that blank was 3.2 oz. After an unfortunate incident last year where th
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To position the rod, I use a tip I read on this site a couple of years ago. I took the foot off an old bait casting reel I had laying around, and glued a line level across the top of it. (it looks like a + symbol) I put it in the reel seat and then take the rod and put it in my hand wrapper, securing the rod so that it cannot rotate, and the line level is showing the reel seat is level side to si
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I've only built two spinning rods, and I relied on the KR Concept GPS for both of them as far as placement of the reduction guides and belly guide are concerned. As everyone has said, the reduction guides and belly guide spacing look fine to me. The angle you're seeing with the rod under load is to be expected, and not bad at all. Although I will say .... or question how loaded the blank is?
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You left out something very important ........ what will you be using the rod for?
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Excellent job Gib. As mentioned earlier, I'll definitely be submitting my findings on a couple of blanks. Looking through the specs on a couple of the blanks I noticed some discrepancies between the published data that I have for the Pac Bay Quickline Spin Jig blanks, and the data that you have posted for those blanks. Specifically the QLSJ 902, 903, and 904. The IP and AA numbers you have
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David, I have 9 guides plus the tip top on on two 6'6" medium light powered, extra fast action spinning rods that I built, so I personally wouldn't think that 10 guides on a 7' rod would be too many. If you were thinking you may have too many guides because you're comparing the rod you built to a factory rod, I'd say don't. Now I may put on more guides than other builders do, but I've te
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Excellent David. It's awesome isn't it? And like Mathew said, the reward you get out of a fishing rod you built is one that keeps on giving. As far as you thinking you may have too many running guides ........ unless you went hog wild and really have wayyyyyy too many, it is IMO better to have too many, than too few.
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Norman, I wasn't aware that Point Blank started testing their blanks using the CCS criteria. Thank you for informing me of that. I bet Jim Ising had something to do with that.
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As Norman said, that is quite an undertaking. Kudos to you for having the gumption to take it on. I've built on 2 Rainshadow Immortal blanks that I've been wanting to perform CCS testing on. I plan on testing them within the next 2 weeks. I'll be glad to share what I came up with. I'm assuming builders wanting to post numbers would just post them to this thread? Oh, and unless somethings
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Tom, you're right. I was speaking in terms of the overall power of the rod, not its casting weight range.
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I gotta agree with Norman. I know that intrinsic power and ERN go hand in hand, but as I know nothing about how much more powerful an 8 weight fly rod is compared to a 4 weight fly rod, a higher ERN simply means the rod is more powerful. For me its like a rod manufacturer that uses numbers to delineate their power ratings. A 4 power is more powerful than a 2 power, but how much more powerful?
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Roger, I going off the assumption that you're building the a casting rod? If so, my choice would be a Rainshadow Immortal IMMC73ML. I built a rod on that blank and it works great for the type of baits you mention. Some of the baits I throw with it are 3.8 - 4.8 Keitech Swing Impact Fats. 4" Keitech Easy Shiners, Strike King 4" Swimmin Caffeine Shads, and Reaction Innovations Little
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I'd have to agree that it's a little light in power. If you go with light wire hooks, fish them in more open water, and maybe bump up to 10# line? And I'd definitely go with one of the less stretchy fluorocarbon lines. For instance, Seaguar Tatsu, or Sunline Sniper.
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Spencer, I appreciate your post. In my most recent post I may have made it sound like I only add the weight to aid in actually performing a flipping or pitching motion. While it definitely does that, I also add weight because for me and the way I hold the rod, it makes holding the rod in a fishing position easier and less fatiguing. And I know it makes detecting a bite easier. Especially those li
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Lynn, your support is very much appreciated. Roger, I can understand my method of adding weight having issues. I think a far bigger issue than the one you mentioned of the weight possibly extending far up into the butt of the blank, is that if I were to put on a lighter reel, it would be difficult to add more weight in the same fashion. My only recourse would be to add one of the weighted butt
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If it's a rod that will be used for tensioned line techniques ..... spinnerbait, crankbait, chatterbait etc. then none. There's no way you could balance a rod against the pull of a bait. A pulling force that changes from bait to bait, speed of retrieve, length of cast. etc. If it's a rod that will be used for slack or semi slack line techniques, Texas rigs, jigs, wacky rigging etc. then as mu
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Oh heck ...... sorry about that Marty. A clear case of my eyes not following the bouncing ball. My apologies.
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lol Tom. I was talking more about the "SUPR technology" Evidently it's a combination of polymers that allow a rod blank to go from a fast action, to a moderate fast action. At least that's the way I read it. And that's a dang fine idea Michael. Sometimes my lure lands in the trees. lol
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There's also a 1/2 oz. difference in weight. I've built on the 72MH blank, and it is safe to say that 4" of that blank, regardless of what part of the blank it comes from, does not weigh 1/2 oz. That would lead me to believe that the 76H has thicker walls. And that has to be where the higher advertised power of the 76H blank comes from. As far as the action of one being faster than the o
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Since there's some talk of hype in this thread, I figure it's ok if I share something I found while surfing the web. The following is a copy and paste from the online catalog of a fishing tackle supply house. I removed the name of the supply house and rod series "Stronger, lighter and equipped with Superior Uniform Particle Resin (SUPR) technology, XXXXXXXX XXXXXXX Casting Rod delivers
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I've never fished a GLX so I have no idea how well they perform. Going just on the reputation of the GLX, I'd have to agree with Michael .... I don't see how you could build a comparable rod for $150. I've now built 3 rods on Rainshadow Immortal blanks. I don't know how the Immortal blanks compares to the GLX blanks, but I have over $200 in components (including shipping) for each of those bu
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Rick, I've been reading your previous threads. Sounds like you've built yourself two nice rods. Nice job? You're not alone in having to tidy up some aspects of your builds. I know still have some things I need to tidy up as well. Personally I think you're ahead of the game in that you started out choosing your own components. I'm certainly not disparaging those that go the kit route for t
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Ahh ... I figured it was going to be the basic set up with 3 double foot guides in #12, # 10, and #8, and the rest being single foot #6's for the runners. Should make for a nice performing rod.
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As most have said, the guides that come with the kit will be fine. As Norman said, braid isn't going to hurt them. To answer your question concerning whether or not you would see any true difference by upgrading the guides? Not knowing the sizes of the guides that come with the kit, I can only speculate. My guess is that the sizes of the guides that come with the kit you're purchasing are
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Ron, the #5 ring with a 7.5 tip top is good news to me! Prior to this posting the closest I could find was a #7 ring with a 7.5 tube.
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Most factory rods are not even close to being optimized for performance. A $400+ bass rod designed for flipping and pitching, would not have #6 running guides on it if it were optimized for performance. Personally, I'd look more to the guide train as the reason a rod casts horribly, before I'd consider it casts poorly because the guides are placed with no consideration for the spine of the bl
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Might be for a hidden thread fore grip?
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Tommy Bee Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You've lost me mate > > I think you are talking about cosmetic alignment > i.e rod straightness > > Not my bag I'm more concerned about spine > alignment and rod performance > > There is no such thing as a straight fishing rod, > pretty much impossible I'd offer that the or
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After having rods that don't have hook keepers, and rods that do .... I would never build a rod without one.
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