Looks real good. Nice work. I built basically the same thing. A couple of suggestions if I may? First, I made my rod stands just like the ones you made, what I found was I had the bases too wide as it relates to the 90 degree angle. Meaning the length between where your adjustment screw goes through the base, and the vertical rod stand. With them that wide you pretty much have to turn the st
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Lawrence, I'd be happy to run your numbers for you, but I don't know what the "reel measure method" is. Nor do I see any correlation between the information required for the KR GPS, and the numbers you provided. Your largest number equates to less than 5 1/2 inches. As evidenced by the cut and paste from the KR Concept software that Don provided me, you can see they ask for measureme
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Spencer, Norman, and Donald. Thanks a ton for your responses. I knew I could count on you guys!!! I just checked the site and this time it showed the measurements for the guides. Must have been some kind of malfunction earlier this morning. I tried it several different times with different measurements or reel size each time, and it always came up with that NaN posting in column where it show
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Hey folks. I was just planning my next build (a spinning rod) and went to use the KR Concept GPS software on the Angler's Resource site. I entered all the pertinent information for the rod and reel and hit the calculate button. As expected, It gave me the three reduction train guide sizes to use. Unexpectedly, when I scrolled down to see the measurement for the guide's locations, it only gave the
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Randy, if I were you I'd feel pretty confident that your putting epoxy over the splintering is going to be fine. I wouldn't worry about it further. When making my reamers out of an old rod, I used a Dremmel with a cutting wheel on it. It did a great job of cutting, but considering the size of the cuts, made a lot of air borne dust. Not liking the dust, I went to using a coping saw that has
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I haven't been building long enough, or experimented enough to know if there is a difference in casting performance of a rod with its guides positioned for aesthetic purposes only, (proportionally spaced) and for performance under a load. (static positioning) My guess is as long as there are enough guides to control the line, and those guides are sized properly, then there is probably very li
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Kelly, glad it is coming together for you, I'll just add a couple of comments if I may? I start my wraps the same way you are. But I take the tag end of the thread around the blank a couple of times before taping it to the blank. With you only doing what appears to be one wrap around the blank with your tag line, it may be slipping on you a bit. The second thing I noticed is you're packing
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Ron, that sounds intriguing. Unconventional as all get out, but very intriguing. I have an old factory rod that I'm refurbishing. I'm thinking I'll give it a try. Thanks for sharing that idea!!!
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I'm like Michael in that I put it on the bottom of the blank away from the reel. I actually put it in the same place on a spinning rod as well. Never had a problem with line hanging up on a hook keeper on either type of rod. If you're building the rod for someone I'd try and see how they hold the rod when fishing. I do as Mathew does and position the keeper about an inch ahead of the end of t
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Kelly, I know your frustration, and that you're looking for better answers than you found in the thread you posted the link to, but really, that thread contains the answers to cure your problem. I don't use one of the tension rods you mentioned, so I'm not familiar with how much tension it takes to bend one to the degree you're evidently experiencing. I can tell you that when I am wrapping th
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Foam arbors. I use a 3/8" drill bit that I hold in my hand, and I bore the arbor to 3/8 before gluing it in the reel seat. I've tried gluing the arbor in the reel seat before boring it and it resulted in an off center bore on one end, and a scrapped reel seat. Boring the arbor by hand before gluing in the reel seat gives me more control. The foam arbors bore easily, so turning the drill bit
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Wow ...... that's not good. Curious as to what series the blank is from? There was a member that posted about problems with a couple of blanks from the Immortal series breaking. He had built on his, but from his description they broke rather easily. A bit troubling to read.
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Oh man. I know he posted in some of the threads I've asked questions in. His answers were always helpful. The community is going to miss him.
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I haven't used the Fuji seat so I can't offer a direct comparison, but as Eric alluded to, the MVT seat is designed to be mounted in direct contact with the blank. Although there is an woven graphite insert in the MVT, (sizes 14 mm, 14.5 mm, and 15.0 mm do not have the insert) it is in the aft portion of the reel seat, and its I.D. is sized to the size of seat you order. The thread barrel of the
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Found it ....... it is actually a thread posted by Jim Spooner, with a link in it to a chart about how trimming a blank affects the power, so it's probably not actually what you're looking for. In the thread Jim mentions that he uses a method other than CCS or RDA measurements, to measure his rods. Perhaps he'll chime in on this thread. If not, perhaps a thread addressed to him may get a resp
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If you use the parameters of CCS to determine power and action, then it won't change at all. If you use the method Point Blank uses, I forget what they actually call it, something like effective rod length, where they base their measurements on a length shorter than the blank itself (they subtract the length of the rear handle) then the power and action will be different than a CCS measured ro
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Rick, that is great to hear, and based on Geoff's responses to this and other threads concerning Batson products, is not surprsing at all. You rock Geoff!
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Randy, I would have thought the same thing until I got a power wrapper recently. Actually, the main reason I got the power wrapper is so I could turn the rod faster while applying finish. I've only done one rod with it thus far so I may be completely crazy here, but it seems that the finish flattens out and spreads a bit. I know it doesn't make sense, but I applied finish to a small decorativ
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Lynn, I haven't had any problems using a braid pull through on metallic thread. But I'm only pulling it under maybe 10 wraps at the most.
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As Gib mentioned, I would think mono or even fluorocarbon line would be too thick. Like Roger I use 10# regular old Power Pro. Works great.
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Add me to the scissors and early tie off loop camp. Works great and you never have to worry about needing to redo a wrap because you inadvertently nicked the wrap.
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Geoff's responses to threads on here is just one of the reasons Batson Enterprises products are tops on the lists of many builders, mine included. I hope my earlier post didn't come off as being negative towards the Immortal line of blanks. If so, that was not my intention. I absolutely love the Immortal series and certainly won't shy away from them because of an unfortunate incident or two.
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I know it's too late and of no consolation, but I do as Tom mentioned and flex a new blank deeply when I first get it, just to check for potential problems. I can tell you that I'd be a little more than upset if something like what has been described, happened to me. I understand you caught the rod built on the popping blank during a back cast, but unless it suffered a sever impact at the poi
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Thomas ...... you're sure right about that. It is a major color change. As to which I prefer personally .... I'm still up in the air on it. The previous color is more ..... I don't .... I guess refined is the word I was looking for. The newer color is definitely more bold. I've used the same wrap scheme on the Immortals I've built on so far. Black with a 3 wrap metallic silver trim band, and
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Gib, I'm curious as to the color of your 72MH blank? Is it more silver gray, or does it look more gray with a slight blueish tint to it? The reason I ask is ..... I built on that blank a couple of years ago, the blanks color was the more of a gray with a slight blueish tint. I am almost positive that the listed weight for that blank was 3.2 oz. After an unfortunate incident last year where th
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To position the rod, I use a tip I read on this site a couple of years ago. I took the foot off an old bait casting reel I had laying around, and glued a line level across the top of it. (it looks like a + symbol) I put it in the reel seat and then take the rod and put it in my hand wrapper, securing the rod so that it cannot rotate, and the line level is showing the reel seat is level side to si
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I've only built two spinning rods, and I relied on the KR Concept GPS for both of them as far as placement of the reduction guides and belly guide are concerned. As everyone has said, the reduction guides and belly guide spacing look fine to me. The angle you're seeing with the rod under load is to be expected, and not bad at all. Although I will say .... or question how loaded the blank is?
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You left out something very important ........ what will you be using the rod for?
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Excellent job Gib. As mentioned earlier, I'll definitely be submitting my findings on a couple of blanks. Looking through the specs on a couple of the blanks I noticed some discrepancies between the published data that I have for the Pac Bay Quickline Spin Jig blanks, and the data that you have posted for those blanks. Specifically the QLSJ 902, 903, and 904. The IP and AA numbers you have
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David, I have 9 guides plus the tip top on on two 6'6" medium light powered, extra fast action spinning rods that I built, so I personally wouldn't think that 10 guides on a 7' rod would be too many. If you were thinking you may have too many guides because you're comparing the rod you built to a factory rod, I'd say don't. Now I may put on more guides than other builders do, but I've te
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