The rapid choke concept involves not only a shorter reduction train but also the use of high frame small ringed reduction guides to help choke and control the line coils. Both are important. Fuji designed their KR reduction guides to be used in groups based on their height and ring size. These groups almost space themselves at the correct intervals along the blank. Because of this, I have not pl
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I agree, braid was a game changer for me. Once I tried it I respooled all my reels with it and never looked back. Using a mono or fluorocarbon leader alleviated the problem with abrasion resistance and also added a stiffer line end for working certain types of lures better. Norm
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Les- Well stated. Tom. - We certainly agree that rod length is not a determining factor in choke guide placement. I did state above that one can keep the reduction train length the same no matter the length of the rod. However, moving the choke in or out somewhat in a calculated way does not make a difference in performance, up to a certain point. For example, I have stated in the past that I’m
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Tom, you and I differ somewhat on this. I do believe that reel height and line type and size are important in determining guide placement. However, I have no problems with the choke point being a movable point on a KR concept rod. When the KR concept first came out I did a lot of testing in order to better understand it. Using an invariant reduction guide length vs movable reduction guide lengt
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Francis - For the KR concept, Fuji suggests multiplying the distance of the butt guide to the tip top by about .45 and placing the choke guide at this distance in front of the butt guide. The KRGPS at Anglers Resource uses an average factor of .42 to calculate the choke position. In either case, the choke point becomes a movable point. For example, the longer the rod the a longer the reductio
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Here’s the link you are looking for. Norm
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Kevin - As you suggested, for UL rods I like the SesGuide HLG SS match style guides with MKG runners. Very light guides and work great. Norm
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A while back I bought a 6’ UL OEM blank from Mudhole to try on a whim. Made it up for a friend and he loved it, and had me make 6 more for his friends They all loved them. Over the past 6 months I’ve made over a dozen more of them. Try one they are quite inexpensive but a lot of fun to fish. They are very light, will easily throw very light jigs and lures and are surprising sensitive. Mudhole ha
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SeaGuide sells interline tip tops. Check with RodBuilders Warehouse to see what they have available. Norm
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The 27X method is for estimating the choke point for the NGC not for the KR concept. For a 6’ rod, the KR GPS at Anglers Resource does not do a great job. In my opinion, it puts the the choke guide to close the butt guide and does not use not enough guides. However, for longer rods it’s does a good job. I have no idea what you will use this rod for. However, if you are using a 1000 to 3000 si
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Never met AL Jackson, but I know he was very instrumental in the design of modern fishing rods. He designed a lot of rods for a lot of different manufacturers and we owe him our gratitude. My sincere condolences to his family and friends. Norm
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Here’s something that came our a while back Norm
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No difference, both are the same and stand for No color preserver needed to preserve the original color. Unlike regular nylon thread, the NCP/NoCP thread contains an additive which prevents the epoxy finish from soaking into the thread and causing it to darken and become more translucent. Hence, the thread is colorfast with original color of the thread being maintained. Norm
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Does not appear any of the sponsors have this blank listed. Try LurePartsOnline, they may have some in stock.. Norm
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If you are planning on building rods get a dream reamer set or a similar set, or make your own. Reamers are essential tools for rod building. I’ve never found a set of round rat tail files with the same diameter or lengths as the reamer sets designed specifically for rod building. I started out with rat tail files but they didn’t cover the all sizes I required. Do your self a favor and buy a set
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Finding long rod blanks suitable for making crappie jig poles is difficult, none of the sponsors here sell such blanks. I have used inexpensive 11’ 4 piece switch and Spey rods I’ve found doing searches on the internet. They worked quite well as jig poles Norm
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Chris - Again handle length is a personal thing. On long rods that are being used primarily for vertical jigging, many people want a long fore grip (7”-12”) because they will hold the rod in front of the reel for better balance. In this case, the rear grip is short or the the reel seat is at the very end of the rod, similar to a fly rod. For those who want long rods for casting and retrieving, a
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Mark- Wow, mixing 16-20 cc of rod finish for an UL rod!!! That enough finish to do almost a dozen normal freshwater rods without butt wraps. I normally mix about 1 to 1.5 ml ea of resin and hardener for a total of 2 to 3 ml of mixed finish and this is more than enough to completely finish any rod I build and still have some left over. Larger diameter salt water rods with butt wraps may require m
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Most crappie rods have very light tips. So in order to keep the rod as responsive as possible, light guides are a must. Almost all of the crappie rods I build use SS ringed guides. I previously used PacBay Minima guides, but they became very difficult to get, so I moved over to the SeaGuide SS ringed guides with the Adaman coating. These guides are actually lighter than the Minima guides or the
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Crappie rods constitute a very strange mix of widely varying blank types and the way they are built. They range in length from 16’ jig poles to 4’ UL rods. They are used with spinning, casting, fly and various other types of reels, or no reel at all. People think there are a lot of different types bass technique rods, but I think crappie rods might have them beat, as far as diversity is concerne
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Similar to Spencer, I use a piece of thread which I tie to the line using a uni knot. The uni knot allows for the knot to side up or down the line so you can set the depth of your float. You want to use a thin enough piece of thread to create a small knot that easily passes through the guides, but not so thin that it passes through the hole in the bead or the hole the cone piece of the float. I k
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The micro wave system works very well, I just prefer the KR concept for a number of reasons. However, it all boils down to a matter of personal preference. You just need to try both in order to decide which one you like better. Norm
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Nothing equivalent but the KR concept is comparable. Norm
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Never heard of marbling mud so looked it up. It appears that Guy is correct and this is the stuff you might want to use. Norm
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Johnny Kuehn was an unique character, going to be difficult to find someone else like him. The Ye Olde English Fly Shop sells much the same things as did the Angler’s Roost, including classic flyrod blanks. Not the easiest website to maneuver through, but a lot of interesting stuff there. Norm
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I haven’t built the Neo 765 as a spinning rod. However, if I were to using a 5000 reel with 30 lb braid and a 30 lb mono/fluoro leader with a 5000 reel, I can think of two options I might seriously consider. I first one would be a Single foot KR guide train with a KL25h, KL12H, and KL7M for the reduction train followed by KB/KT6 or KB/KT5.5 runners and a matching tip top. The second one would be
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What blanks did you order? I couldn’t find the model you listed at the NFC website or their catalog. Norm
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Contact them, so they can help you. We can’t do anything about your problem. So, complaining here does no good. Norm
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I’ve built several X-ray Neo MB765 as KR casting rods. For fresh water use, I use the corrosion control stainless guides. I use a KW10 butt guide followed by a KW5.5, then three KB5s and five KT5s as runners for a total of ten guides. The tip top was a matching LG tip top. For salt water use, I like titanium guides. I replace the KW10 with an RV6 and use a matching KG tip top. The RV6 only comes
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Casting or spinning? Norm
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