I use Meguiars Scratch X too. Works great.
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After reading Rich Forhan's article in a back issue of RM (sorry can't remember the volume) on Equal Distance spacing which also included suggestions on guide style and sizes I started using his system. He made a couple of points that stuck with me. One, there are more precise methods that will extend the potential best casting distance 6-7% which means being able to cast the lure a few more feet
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Mike - have you tried it for cutting a 1/2" ring in half using the other jig? Or do you have a technique for keeping the saw from traveling? My problem is keeping on side from being thinner than the other (not square if that makes sense). The saw I use fits pretty tight in the slot but always wants to travel as I near the finish of the cut.
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I lightly buff with a product called ScratchX by Meguiar and then a light coat of Meguir's paste wax.
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I think what I would do is completely remove the foregrip and scrap with a razor perpendicular to the blank (do not sand) any residue back to the blank. Then "marblelize" the section where the foregrip use to be. Plenty of instructions here on "marlelizing". In the end you will have a rod with two leading edge trends - no foregrip and "marblelized" esthetics.
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Maybe finally a good use for brocoli :)
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Very understandable reason to miss The Show. Congratulations.
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My personal take away from the test is not limited to the comparisons between products. It reinforces my understanding (and experience) that if a builder chooses to use CP (and imo there are a lot of reasons) then the builder should also be aware that the tolerance for not getting the fundamentals of wrapping correct is 0. Your fundamentals better be perfect. "Operator errors" that migh
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I think the idea of an "overweighted" fly line is interesting. Because the standard for fly line weights is a range (e.g., 5wt = 134-146 grains & 6wt=152-168grains) is an intentionally overweighted line always at the top of the range or in the small gap between its rated weight and the low end of the next line weight up (e.g., an overweighted 5wt is 150grains)? In my experience the
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It will not be a think ring but to get a older, 'antique" look you can stain the face of the ring with dark wood stain before you apply the epoxy or glue. Golden Witch also sells a stain designed for getting this effect.
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I use a full-wells with the same dimensions on all my fly rods. It has very little curvature almost a cylinder. It fits my hand and lets me move my finger position in very little increments which helps keep it from getting tired/cramped. My basic philosophy is similiar to golf clubs. I keep the grip consistent across all rods because my hand size doesn't change when the rod does. Nothing better o
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I only have one problem with CTS & Bob - he is just too informative and fun to talk to about a project, fishing and life in general. A 5 minute phone order can take 30 minutes :). And if you ever stop by his store you better have a ready explanation for the wife of why the drive from Nashville took 2 hours longer. Don't ask how I know :)
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Tony - I don't think there is a standard for stripping guide placement. Because it is so far into the butt I don't think stress or casting performace is the critieria for placement. IMO it's comfortable reach by the angler. if at all possible I have the customer "measure" the distance to the stripping guide by holding the (or a) blank in the line stripping position (of their choice) a
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I use the Forhan on all SFs, including light wt fly rods. The reason I use it on light wt fly rods with wire SFs is because around here they are used most often on small, extremely bushy streams, many of which you have to bushwhack to to fish. Guides are always snagging on rhodies and other guide grabbers. 3 miles into a hike is not a good place to have a guide pull out, which happens pretty freq
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As far as aesthetics my experience is I get a lot more comments of the vent of "weird, unnatural, why are you using a spinning rod, that's just not right" when I use ceramics all the way out. Letting the nay sayer/purist cast the rod stops most of the comments. For the others putting snakes of any color will make them "feel" better about the rod but it's not their "feel
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I agree with marc. I've never had a tape arbor fail but I have switched from tape to foam arbors. I think using the arbors correctly has the added advantage of lighter weight and on a 9 wt rod that I'm going to be casting a lot every bit of constructionally sound weight savings is important to my old arm.
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I just built a rod for similiar purposes on a Rainshadow Hotshot blank. I can't recall the model suffix but it was a 1021 - 3/8 to 3 oz. The x-fast action works great imo for this type fishing. I set it up with NPS seat (backwards), split grip, and new concept guide lay out (Alconites). I spooled the reel with 30lb braid and use a 20lb flouro leader. Works great. Looked it up HS (Duh) 1021F
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Rob - I use the nail knot method for trims. No tag ends under the wrap allowing for no CP if that is the look I want.
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Also take a look at the Lamiglass Appalachain Traveler 7' 3wt 3 pc. It is built with high modulus for fast recovery and responsiveness, but unlike most other manufacturers Lamiglass does not use a fast action taper. I personally like the result - it's light, "crisp" and sensitive, but with the slower action that loads great close in with my casting mechanics. Paired with REC Recoil guid
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I built a spinning rod on a 7'9" 3wt Forecast extended 1 foot to get the extra casting distance for light inline spinners and small crankbaits. I use it to cast to really spooky Trout in shallow water of a lake I frequently fish. Even though hook set is not the same with Trout as with Bass, one thing I did to help with hook setting is spool my reel with 12lb braid and then use 4-5' of 6 lb f
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Steve - thanks for the information. You (and Bob) answered a question that's been rambling through my mind. I've been thinking about a short, heavier weight fly rod for river bass fishing, and in particular for our Shoal Bass. I need to chuck and duck big, heavy streamers directly into shoals while wading. Distance isn't an issue, but having power and leverage to quickly turn the fish before they
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I just finished a rod using regular Red with CP. I very much liked how it wrapped and the final color.
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Another idea is to go for a complete contrast. Sometimes when I've tried to match I get close but not quite right and it looks to me like I "missed". Imo it looks worse than if I go for a complete contrast. If the grip is dark and/or has dark contrast I will use a light colored tight grain like a burl. Or if the grip is light a dark seat insert. I've also turned the burl cork for
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I use full wells or 1/2 wells (Fenwick-like not reverse) with shallow indentions on all my personal rods - SW & FW and all sizes. I turn to the same size too, my hand size doesn't change because the rod size did. This is for many of the reasons given particularly thumb and grip pressure as well more area in which to move my hand up and down the grip or spread my fingers a little so my hand do
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On similiar configurations I like to use Alconite DF 10, SF 8 and 6's on out.
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I have the best results when I use lots of very thin coats building up until all of the feather tip are completely covered then one last thin finishing coat.
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imo based on recent experience, if you extend the rod per the design prinicples in the Rod Maker Mag article you will not lose any sensitivity, at least if you do technically it won't be noticed in your hand. The extension and blank essentially become one piece and the seat and grip will have the same contact with the new blank (and yes emory, I know that is only one part of sensitivity :) )
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This fall I built a spinning rod on a 7' 9" 3wt blank extended 1'. I built it to be a special purpose rod - throwing mini-jigs or really light inline spinners long distances. It works great with the spinners because the fish hook themselves. It's OK with the mini-jigs. I had to get use to a wider sweeping hook set than I'm use to and still miss a few.
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imo a 7' 6" 4wt is the "classic" small stream rod for a number of reasons - short enough to manage on small streams, long enough for basic line control and roll-casting, handles a wide-range of fly sizes. Although I'm pretty partial to 7' 9" 3wts for my personal rods. I think the RX6 7' 9" 3wt holds a sweet spot in the RX6 lineup. Also I don't think either should be an i
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I have a couple of old T&Ts left over from my factory days. The stripper is on "backwards". I think from a thread back awhile ago this was discussed. It seems that the thinking or at least marketing was this helped with line flow. I'm not really sure if it does or doesn't. I do know that these are excellent casting rods. However I don't think the performance is helped or hurt by the
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