When I use the nail knot method (for the advantages noted), I use my left hand index finger to form the tunnel for the tag ends to pass through. I cut the same ~18" as Bill. I grasp one end using my left hand thumb to press it against my left hand index finger. I place my index finger up close to the bottom of the blank and pointing toward the guide wrap I intend for the trim. I wrap the
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Gary - I do use wood that I cut myself. It is often for senitmental reasons (Pecan from my mother's yard, an old hickory storm damaged in my yard), I like the idea of using indigeneous wood from our Southern forrest and some people say I'm cheap. Starting with green wood is not for those who like instant gratification. Most of mine is cut, the ends sealed and stored in my shop/shed for a year or
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If I'm following your question, I turn the grip to have a small blunt end. I mount it as normal. I then use 5 min epoxy to create a hosel/ramp from the blank to the grip. I keep the blank turning to get the epoxy to taper and level out. I let it dry and then sand any uneven spots and down to 1 thread width lower than the grip. I wrap the thread up the wrap and secure just like a guide wrap. There
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I've used the Alconites and SICs. Personally, I can't percieve the difference in performace. I think that SIC has an advantage in long, long term wearability (is that a word?). I just wish that I had enough days on the water like some my customers where that was a problem :)
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I've switched almost exclusively to wood and burl for the reasons in the original post. So much so that an all cork handle looks odd to me. Especially one that has been coated to look "perfect". They look too sterile and featureless to me now. When I do have to use cork I cut the rings down to 1/4 or 1/8 widths. imo, it helps to break up the bigger flaws/cracks that ran the entire 1/2&q
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Power Fibers (http://www.powerfibers.com/) had an interesting two part article on grips a while back that showed the evolution of grips. The author discussed the ergonomics of the various shapes. Included were several drawings of grips from a number of the masters, including the original Wells and Ritz.
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My oldest son was a guide/instructor last summer in WY/MT. His favorite rod for beginners was an 8' 5wt Rainshadow RX7. He felt that it was not only an easy casting rod for a beginner, it would also introduce them to a versatile style rod that fit a lot of the waters they would encounter. Especially, if they only continued as occasional anglers. Also, because he was a college student himself, he
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Samer - I did a pink on black rod for my daughter. I used Gudebrod 811 and I experienced very similiar results as you when using nylon thread for the reasons Tom K gave. It seemed no matter how much I packed, I would get a spot or botch somewhere on a wrap. Even though they were not noticable except to me, the rod had to be perfect for the princess :) This may not help you because it changes t
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I've use Gudebrod Classic Twist in black/orange to match my son's college colors. Here's a picture Sorry for the small picture size. The wraps have a wood grain like look.
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Craziness is just one symptom of the addiction :)
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If I understand what you are looking for, I use burl cork with Tru-oil finish.
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To keep the the tag end of trim bands from showing I use the nail knot technique. I wrap the main wrap, starting 1 or 2 turns off the guide foot, then add the metallic trim band on the outside edge of the main wrap using the nail knot techique and then outside of this trim band another nail knot "trim" band using the main wrap thread. If you do a search on nail knot you should get a
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Thanks Tom & Russ. I'm going to experiment with both suggestions. I have this picture in my mind of matching insert, rings and grip inlays that I think would look great and unique on light weight green blank, but do not want to compromise the rod's functionality.
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Has anyone tried turning wood slide bands for a double slide band seat? In thinking about this my first speculation is that there would be a risk of splitting because the reel foot would act as a wedge. I've thought about reinforcing the wood by boring the turning stock to have a hole with an ID = to the OD of a lightweight metal tubing, gluing the tubing inside the hole, cutting the wood/tub
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Sharon - hope you are successful. I know the following is obvisous to you given your commitment to custom builders: It is my opinion that custom rods built on your blanks does not cannabalize factory rod sales. Just the opposite. I've had customers and fishing buddies that are so impressed with the quality of the blank in a custom rod built on an Allstar blank that they put Allstar high on their
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You will not see any change in the action - that is the technical definition of action as the shape of the bend under intial load. It is a constant and determined by the taper. In many anglers lay term of action, it will "feel faster". That is it will be more efficient, especially as it relates to dampening speed. It will "feel" a little more crisp. You will also improve sensi
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I use CP and I don't. As mentioned many times, depends on the look I'm trying to achieve. I will say that there have been times when I've used CP that I have later had wrap problems. These cases can almost all be traced to water getting to the CP and as Lou points out, playing havoc because it is not waterproof. Some are the result of operator errors - me not being totally dilligent in applying t
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I intentionally use trim bands or thread inlays so that my rods do not look like factory rods. I use the nail knot method after wrapping the guide. Ive found the nail knot approach to be fast and secure. Usually 2-3 turns. Never more than 5. More than 5 looks more to me like a color change rather than a trim band. Similiar to Rob M and when possible given the blank color, I've started using
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I certainly agree with all of the comments concerning matching style and action. I will add that there seems to be an interesting trend, maybe counter trend, to "high-end" rods getting faster. I think the "faster is always better" trend that was driving marketing is finally slowing down (pun intended). The "faster is always better" trend seemed to me to be the result
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I use Glass Coat. I think most people think of it as high build. Like Bill, I like its clarity and hardness, plus, it seems to level better; II don't know why, it just does for me and within my routine. I apply it in two coats, if I have not used CP. Without CP, my intent with the first coat is to "seal" the thread, let air escape and have as close to perfect level coating as I can.
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Rod Bond
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Don - interesting idea. I think for fishing it would be a good set up, especially for sneaking up, hiding using trees along the bank and high-sticking nymphing the fast pockets or dappling and skittering an EHC right along the bank of a tailout. The down side would be handling a rod that long in the dense cover along the banks. I would probably be snagging the tip top alot in branches and loop
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Rod - for more detail information you might consider two books: for access and directions, Lea Lawerence's The Fly Fisherman's Guide to The Great Smoky Mountains National Park and for fly patterns, L.J. Decuir's Southeastern Flies. Also, this site is frequented by a lot of anglers who live near and fish the Park often: On all the local boards you can count on a twice monthly debate concernin
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Sorry. I got a strange error message following the first post and did not think it posted.
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I use either a full wells or a Fenwick style on all my rods, regardless of line weight. The choice depends on the reel seat. On lighter weight rods (<4) where I typically use a cap & ring or double rings, I use a Fenwick style. It's amazing how many anglers who have only bought factory rods will comment that I put the grip on backwards. They have always accepted the marketing pitch that a
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One suggestion. Next time after prepping with Scotchbrite, don' t clean with alcohol. It undoes the effect of the Scotchbrite surface prepping. For the wraps you might consider a satin urethane. I've used the Helmsman Satin Spar as finish on the blank, but not the wraps. But think it should work. You could also keep it very low build.
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I use the technique before painting a blank (with Dupli-color or Plasti-Kote automotive touch up paints). I'm really not sure if this is a must do, but it does give me more confidence in the durability of the finish.
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Done. I missed the default value when registering. Stan has e-mailed me and in keeping with the spirit of this board provided me with some very useful information concerning the Juniper he uses and an opportunity to try it out myself.
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imo, Lamiglass Appalachian Traveler 7' or 7' 6" 3pc. Light, fast, but not too fast, crisp.
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I use Rod Bond for all adhesion needs. I use Ralph O's techique of applying then scraping it off (with an unsolicited credit card :) ). I leave only enough to give a consistently wet look across the entire surface. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by partial rings, but this technique consistently eliminates lines between rings and inside rings (checkerboarding). On my lathe, I bore the ID of
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