I agree with the length and diameter suggestions. In addition I like my full wells to have shallow indentions. The grips are almost straight. I think this allows slight movements of the hand that helps fight off hand fatique.
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Roger - I've moved to the shape you describe with the NPS seat. I think it is very similiar in shape and function as the back of a full wells fly grip. which I prefer
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Letting your wife keep her seat on the way back or sending her home on the bus? :)
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I build for a local tournament angler. The casting setups are 1 dbl foot butt followed by SFs. They are either Alconites or Batson Zirconiums. I replace a guide or 2 on his heavy worm and pig & jig rods every season because the ring pops out. He has no clue or desire to finese fish. His motto is "cross their eyes and fly them to the boat". We agreed at the beginning that guide repla
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Bob - you may want to talk to your local pharmacist in Shelbyville. And, not just to get more Advil. They use special devices for holding bulk pills and then accurately counting out ones transfered to the prescription bottles. May help you and Scott. If not you could still pick up some extra headache medicine :)
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I would add calipers to Mike's list. I don't know what I would do without them. I've also found it convenient to buy sand paper packs - pre-packaged box of strips in the 4 grits that I most often use. I reinforce the sharpening system suggestion - and add lessons on how to sharpen turning tools if you do not already know how.
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Broke the tip on an Appalachain Traveler 7' 3wt a very favorite small stream rod - and it wasn't while fishing. Sent the tip along with the 2nd section in case fit was an issue. Got a call back as soon as it arrived. Agreed to the replacement fee which was nominal. Just got the tip back 4 days later including weekend. And, they threw in a new rod tube. Maybe they were telling me something :)
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This thread reminded my of this year's winner of the "Wacky Warning Label Contest": A label on a small tractor that warns, "Danger: Avoid Death" . Sage advise and something I try to stick to on a daily basis, especially in my shop :) Second place is something we should all be aware of as well: an iron-on T-shirt transfer that warns: "Do not iron while wearing shirt.&q
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I used all Sulky Copper metallic for wraps on a hunter green blank. I really liked the look. Very different. I think the copper on the blue would be an eye catcher too.
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I have a lot of personal experience with the RX6s in lighter weights. I like them and the finished rods. They are often described as excellent blanks for the price. imo they are excellent blanks. I think the dark blue (as opposed to the old teal) gives you lots of options. Personally I'd make it bright and fun. Not a Snoopy rod just something bright & "cool". If he's old enought a f
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I use the NPS seat almost exclusively now. I can't provide exact size comparison between DPS and NPS but found the NPS 16 to be slightly too small for anything but small hands. The 18 "reversed" is what I now use with a short rear grip in a split grip configuration. imo, works great with average to larger hands.
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When you are there try shaking some of the Hotshot blanks. I used one for the same applications and it works great.
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I'm glad you posted the happy ending. Gives me inspiration to go to the shop and wrap - for the third time - my "rod the refuses to be built": painted white twice, second time after seat attached do 2 white finger prints removed from seat, epoxy ramp redone 3 times, 2 lost #6 fly guides, gray thread that just won't pack tight enough. Can't wait to see what fnishing is like. Need deliver
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Bill you gave the young man way more than a rod. Merry Christmas.
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I agree with the comments that the FL Peacock species (as well as the Panama ones I fished for - Sargentos) are a formidable game fish, but they are not the monsters of S America. I have fished for them with my "6wt" (ERN 6.4) river bass fishing outfit with no problems. In fact, a nice Smallie in current might just as tough to handle. Personally, I think a 6 or 7 wt fast action works gr
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Chris - I recently had this "challenge" on a mag-bass blank I was building into a spinning rod using a 18 NPS seat. I bored the arbors hole bigger but not all the way to fit the blank's OD. I then glued the arbor into the seat to bond it to the seat's walls and then carefully did the final reaming.
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Buddy I'm with you. My criteria for sensitivity is bite (or "stop") detection, especially for finese techniques (not much need for bite detection if you're throwing buzz baits). I also agree that with very rare exceptions graphite rods have sufficient bite detectiom potential and super lines help significantly. I do have one additional perspective and that is if the angler really wants
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David - I'm not sure how using Recoils is risking guide failure for this type of rod and for inshore species. How would they fail? btw, I do agree that weight savings alone is not a sufficient reason to consider Recoils in the design if the decision criteria is casting performance. However the corrision proof property (not all anglers take the time to clean their rods properly) and the shape
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As discussed in the "thoughts on unorthodx spacing" thread sometimes challenging "conventional wisdom" can have good results and change the way a building approach is applicable in future "conventional wisdom. I think the thread "is cork obsolete" is similiar. However, not all thinking out-of-the-box results in a better way - the prevailing conventional wisdom i
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Can't wait to read the article. The last cover really got my attention. As expressed I'm of the opinion that there is great potential. But I can't help but think about the recent posts about how the fishing community tend to stick to their ways.
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I've used DupliColor or Plasticote auto touch up spray. Lots of colors including some pretty wild ones like the Chameleon system. I scrape the old finish off with a razor paint scrapper (no sanding), prep with gray Scotchbrite, hang from a rafter kind of like Russ and apply per the instructions on the can. I wet sand with 2000 grit soaked in hot water and Dawn. Sometimes I use the clear coat that
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For spinning and casting I'm finding that the "aesthitics" of performance are getting a lot more demand. Attributes like split grips, no foregrips, split seats, cut back reel seats, real small guides, ... that is all the things that I've learned here to improve performance but viewed by customers as being "too odd" are now being asked for along with the old standbys like perso
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I would recommend a popping blank either 843 or 844. A lot of the blank manufacturers have these and so there is a range of $ cost. My personal favorite are the Batson Rainshadow IPs. For most inshore I think the IP843 builds into a great all around rod but based on the reports of the big Reds coming out of S LA the 844 might be a better choice. If it fits in your budget on of the TI frame series
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I use a spatula to hold the finish very near the thread just above and behind the wrap so it flows off the spatula an onto the thread as I hand turn the blank toward the spatula. I move the spatula across the wrap from front edge to guide foot. I try very hard not to fiddle with finish and let it do the work of self-leveling. Everyonce and awhile I have to help the finish cover a spot. This is on
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I second the tri-pod. Set it so the subject just about fills the LCD or view finder without zoom. Some other suggestions: Light the subject from above with a soft light so no flash is need, if an option set the camera on spot focus, use a remote shutter or the self-timer.
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I keep all my back copies on a shelf within arm's reach of my workbench. I'm always refering to one or more during almost all projects but one that I constantly refer to is the one (sorry about not knowing Volume) that contains Rich Forhan's Equal Distance Guide Spacing article. I use both his technical and philosophical advse. One that has influenced a "style" for me is the Volume with
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One of the problems dispelling myths - and there are hundreds of them held by anglers, some approaching superstition - is they often have a "common sensish" appeal. "Common sense tells you a one piece blank is stronger than one with a joint" or another favorite "oversized guide rings are better because the line doesn't touch the ring, there is less friction and the rod ca
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I cut using a hobby miter box and an Exacto saw. I lightly sand to get rid of the "knife" edge. I mount the seat with a slight gap between the end of the arbor and the end of the seat - about 1/8". I wrap a layer of masking tape around the end of the threads. I complete any other tasks I can and when I reach a point that I won't be working on the rod overnight I stand the blank w
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George - I was cleaning up a 7' 9" 3wt on which I used the Pac Bay single foot WIRE guides. In this case I found exactly what you describe. The wrap extends into the circumference of the ring and on the 2nd and 3rd guides from the tip in particular I have noticable wear on the wrap finish. So much so water is making it to the wrap (the CP is showing signs of having gotten wet). This rod is w
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Jim - I built a rod for similiar fishing plus light surf on a Rainshadow Hotshot blank HS1021 2pc. The suggested line 10-20lb and lure 3/8-3oz.. It is incredibly fast action. I used NCG set-up for a Shimano Stradic 4000. I use Power Pro 20lb with flouro leader. It casts a mile and has backbone to spare. The 1023 is 1/2-4oz lure weight and may be better for the weights you are using.
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