A good way to lay down the fuzzies is a thin undercoat of CP or a rod finish like Gudebrod 840 applied and then removed with a palatte knife in one direction. You can literally stick the thread down into the finish. This might work with a spot application of the Flex Coat before the big event, but I would be concerned that the flood coat would float the threads back up or that you would get un
Forum: rodboard

What you want is a satin poly over the top. You can also rub any wraps down with a polishing compound with a light abrasive to get a matte look. And yes, they look great.
Forum: rodboard

Most all CPs will work under varnish, but you MUST do a test wrap, as Larry says. I have blown many a wrap because I just knew the CP would work. Sometimes the thread color is critical. Are you going to dunk the rod? I find that Tru-oil rubbed on works just as well, with less build-up.
Forum: rodboard

No guarantees! Another tip: You can also cut a lip into both ends of the cork on a lathe, taper the rattan tips, and have the tips lie inside the lip. The contrast thread covers any gap. I also like to go from the metal hood normally buried under the cork grip directly onto a narrow diameter cork grip ahead of the metal. Straight grips look best with rattan, IMO.
Forum: rodboard

Rich. I believe you can get the drier at an art store in the little bottles. I like to use Tru-oil for bamboo rods, so thanks for the tip. Here is one for you: When you begin the first coat of Tru-oil on the wrap, rub it onto the blank with your finger and wipe as much off as you can in the direction of the wrap. Then finish the wrap normally with a brush. Do the same for the second coat.
Forum: rodboard

Overlap the beginning and end of the strips and cut with sharp scissors. Bind the ends down with a rubber band as you wind. Don
Forum: rodboard

I like Klass Kote epoxy paint. The poly will also work well, but expect more coats than with the KK. Either much easier than regular epoxy.
Forum: rodboard

Extra supports and hang the tip over. Use your free hand to support the tip. Loosen the thread tension. Certainly no power. Be very careful to pull your loop directly back along the blank. I often don't wrap the tip at all. It adds nothing and I change tip styles fairly often.
Forum: rodboard

I can't imagine why you would not lay your loop on with 10 wraps left as Stephen suggests and then pull the tag under. You do have to use the loop at some point after all, why not be done with it in the next step? I pull the loop snug to the wrap then lay the edge of my scissors against the blank to cut the tag short. This insures a uniform tag length to pull under. Dental picks, razor blade,
Forum: rodboard

Eric, I seem to be chasing you all over the forums! In any event I have completed several bamboo rods using the LXBG and XSGs and I think they look great, as does the H & H. I will sometimes use a 10 and an 8, or a 12 and a 10 on the same rod. You can also use a smaller chrome XSG in front of a ceramic or agate insert guide and it looks very nice to my eye. The XBG would look okay, but I
Forum: rodboard

Ain't it great? Everyone else is complaining about that tunnel and yours is gone! Seriously, use a thin first coat to saturate the thread down to the blank. I suppose you can use a toothpick to apply some finish there first, then flood the rest of the wrap. I rarely use a locking wrap, but do use a blocking wrap whenever possible to block the tunnel. Much cleaner wrap, because the finish sta
Forum: rodboard

Cortland has a cap and ring set on sale.
Forum: rodboard

Unless you need an arbor I would try contact cement or perhaps rodbond to glue the rattan directly to the blank. If you put the rattan in boiling water, turn off the heat, and let it soak for an hour it will get very soft. Use rubber bands to hold it in place after it is spiraled on. Wind on your contrast thread and coat with poly. I have done one reel seat with rattan, but it was over cork
Forum: rodboard

I have some bamboo projects underway and need some SF wires to match the nickel silver ferrules and hardware. There are lots of chrome guides out there, but they are more grey/bluish than the nickle silver. English bronze is too brown, but seems to match better. Any guides out there that would be a better match or suggestions? Don
Forum: rodboard

2 coats of Tru-oil. Sand the first coat with 400 grit while wet. Sand the grip down with 600 and apply the 2nd coat. When dry, sand again with 600 til there is only a faint sheen under strong light. Looks and feels very much like the original, but a little harder.
Forum: rodboard

You are referring to the 811? I do the same but add a 3rd coat. This seems to fill in the tooth of the thread and allows me to use less topcoat. I did have some grey silk that splotched up, even with the 811. Always have had bad luck with light grey. Don
Forum: rodboard

There have been some posts on this in the past. I think the RECs are the hardest. Not a coating, though. Tom should know. Don
Forum: rodboard

Okay. I don't think the reel is the problem. You never really winch a fish in. You get his head turned towards you and take up the slack as the fish tires and swims your way. The foul hooked fish is closer to dead weight than a hook-lipped fish. I once hooked a stripped bass (10+) pounds on an ultralite spinning rod. Just could not move the fish. I don't have a quick answer, but I think w
Forum: rodboard

Tim, I am still not clear, is it that your brother is not strong enough to wrestle a big fish in or is it simply a problem of hand dexterity? If one bows the rod on the retrieve, there should not be any extra effort turning the reel handle. You create slack and reel that in. Fighting the fish with the rod is a different matter and it sounds as if this is the problem. Please advise.
Forum: rodboard

Tim. Are you using a spinning rod and reel? It might be helpful if you can describe the motion that hurts, then we can collectively come up with the fix. Winding reels at high speed can be fatiguing.
Forum: rodboard

You can also bleach the cork out before you seal it. I have done this on some grips and then seal with Tru-oil.
Forum: rodboard

I don't know if this will help, but Bob Dennison makes a fly/spin reel with a large handle for steelheaders. It is currently on @#$%&. If the physical effort of cranking the reel is the problem, the highest possible gear ratio on a big spool will take in line fastest.
Forum: rodboard

You should try Klass Kote epoxy paint, a former sponsor. Goes on like varnish, hard like epoxy.
Forum: rodboard

I finished wrapping a bamboo rod with 2 tips yesterday and am once again reminded of how much I hate DF guides. Twice the work. No more! Not even on bamboo! Go to ceramics as soon as you cross into the 4 weights and above.
Forum: rodboard

Foam is easily sanded with various grits. Sounds like a lot of hand work would be required. I would think that you could take foam off in a hurry with a suitable rasp.
Forum: rodboard

Never thought of that. I guess I needed to take two wraps into the sunlight and compare.
Forum: rodboard

I once added some glitter to a finish and it simply dissolved. Test a small batch first.
Forum: rodboard

Thanks for the info Bill. My experience has been the same. One guide at a time, don't flood. I will probably thin my 811 by about 20% with alcohol and use it for all the coats, as I do put on 3 coats. On the 3rd coat it begins to sparkle. Under a loupe it looks very good and flat. I finish with varnish or Klass Kote epoxy paint. In response to one of the questions, 811 is clear and also s
Forum: rodboard

Ben. As to the rod wrapper, I think Flexcoat makes a portable model I really like with a thread tensioner. $35. All you need unless you get really serious. Also will go out on a limb and suggest spar varnish for your first wraps as epoxy will drive you nuts.
Forum: rodboard

Steve. I always seem to be one step behind you. I also have several Fitch blanks to build on but have not set up my CCS system. Told Mark about CCS so he will be pleased at your post. I agree that bamboo blanks will vary some between pieces. Larry, what do you mean the bolt self-centers?
Forum: rodboard