The 907-4FT is a nice blank, but if you're looking for a more traditional 7wt, I wouldn't recommend it. It's a way-high-powered cannon. Casts best for me with a WF8F or DT8F. A Batson RX7 may be more in line with your specs and price point.
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Smallest I have on hand is .210, thought it'd be worth a look, though.
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Well, they killed the XP and LL series lineups...the only two that I thought were worth anywhere near their asking price. Try a Dan Craft Signature V. For $120ish, you won't be disappointed. There is no 8'6" 5wt, but the 8'6" 4 or 9'0" 5 are both great rods.
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I may have some that you could use, let me check and I will get back to you.
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When your heating bill is nearly as high as your mortgage payment, you think twice about keeping the place at 70F+! Or even 65+F! One of the (many) problems with a poorly insulated building from the late 1960's... My experience with Threadmaster was that it leveled GREAT with no bubbles at above 70F. Anything lower than that (I mean a degree or two, even), and it was a crapshoot, sometimes
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Threadmaster has documented problems under 70F. Flex Coat seems fine down into the low 60s for me. In the Northwest, that's a big deal.
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Disagree, Tom... the line flow is noticeably smoother with a transition down to the running guides. Also, a #20 stripper on a 9wt, especially if you're going to be using shooting heads or tip systems, will limit initial hangups and promote better shooting.
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20-16-10-8-7's
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If it's just excess finish on the tip, I think you'd be OK with sanding it down a little. Make sure to stop the second you see any signs of gray graphite, though. Worst case scenario is you screw it up and have to order a replacement tip, which with a Forecast blank, isn't too expensive.
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The Forecast 2pc blanks are pretty darn slow action, especially in the lighter weights...
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I love the 997-3V, but it is not a good taper for a switch rod. The 10' FT is much better for that purpose. I am curious, Spencer, why Bob Meiser himself was on this board raving about the FT's capability as a switcher about a year ago? I've cast a couple of Meiser rods and they are darn nice, but I don't think that "hands down better" is really an appropriate description of the
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A large arbor reel with a nice drag is a bonus for steelhead...but by no means necessary. Heck, I caught dozens of steelhead as a snot-nosed kid with a Cortland Crown II click drag reel that must have cost all of $20. Nothing like palming the rim (to create drag) while a steelhead careens down a class IV falls...and that's a *western* steelhead... I fished the WI and MN tribs for a couple year
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My first rod took me about twenty hours to build. Now, it takes about 2-3 hours from start to fishing (not counting drying time) for a very basic build. Fly rods aren't any more time consuming than spinning or casting rods...in fact, a lot of fly rods are quicker as they have smaller wraps and less complicated handle assemblies. You can definitely build a quality rod for less than $200 in ma
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I wonder how much the humidity has to do with it. I've noticed a lot more trouble with finishes here in Oregon than I ever did in the Minnesota winter, and I think we can all guess which is colder.
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What Tony said...the 9'9" SigV series are the best steelhead rods I've fished, bar none.
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They're green-black marbled, FYI.
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FlyLogic makes some green seats...or used to. I have a bunch of their old stuff that I can't use on my own rods (for obvious reasons). I have one that might interest you, drop me a line if that sounds like something you'd like.
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I don't think there's any correlation between the model numbers and the size of rod they're intended for. An A7 seat is a smaller seat for a 5-7 weight, I'd say...the A8 is good for 7-10ish...they have round barrels so the reel foot may slide around a little, but I don't notice it on my rods. I had a UL3 on a 7wt for a while, it worked fine. Seems to hold the reel better than the A7s due t
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I would not waste my money, I had a SLi blank a couple years ago...or I should say, three SLi blanks, after the first and second broke for no particular reason while fishing (first time out on both rods). Take that $100ish and go get a Dan Craft or St. Croix.
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I'd go with a longbelly WF like the SA Steelhead Taper. I like mine lined with the WF5F longbelly, but would step up a weight to a WF6F if using a GPX...especially if I were fishing at distances less than 30-40'.
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Hm, I think the type of cast is important here too... I find that with a straight overhead cast, I run about the same, maybe a couple percent further with ceramics. But when I'm doing casts that are based on water tension to load the rod (spey, roll, and whatever variations you can think up), the ceramics shoot out line MUCH better...as in a 10-15% difference. For what that's worth.
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Of course, I am in no way, shape, or form endorsing fishing for steelhead with anything but a fly rod, fly reel, and fly line :)
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Some folks in Northern California are working the centerpins now...I've seen them on the Umpqua system a time or two as well. The centerpin system seems to be more effective in larger rivers where there's not a lot of brush/rocks/miscellanious crap to get hung up on...whereas the float 'n jig guys can maneuver better, although their drifts are shorter. The Midwest chuck-n-duck is another metho
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Yep, DEFINITELY keep the lathe outside. Or at least FAR FAR away from the wrapping/finishing. Take over a spare bedroom or utility room for wrapping and finishing if you have to...but whatever you do, DON'T have the lathe in there...
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Wow...if I needed another steelhead/salmon/striper/tarpon/etc. rod, I'd take a hard look at the SigVs on closeout. The 9'9" 7 and 8 are two of the sweetest rods I've ever cast.
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"BE SURE TO HAVE SOME ALUMINUM FOIL UNDER THE LENGTH OF THE ROD TO CATCH THE DRIPS!" Yup.
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Dan Craft's new FTL might work for you. I haven't fished one yet but if they're anything like his other blanks...
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I like the 4pc Rx6 more than the 2pc in the 6'6" 2wt...plus you can throw it in your pack/duffel/ashtray..
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It's a different 'feel' than the XP. If you are trying to match it, go with a SigV. That said, the 906-4 FT is a rocket and fishes GREAT with a longbelly WF in a 6wt...so it'd be fine with your WF7, too.
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Is a RSVP necessary, Todd? I may be able to come up, depending on the status of another trip...but probably won't be able to make the call until the day before...
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