Kenneth If this is the only rod you will ever build then follow the excellent advise given above and use the tip you have. If you intend to build more rods, then order a tip that fits and save this tip for use on a future rod. Good luck John
Forum: rodboard

David I would use the fillet knife as Lynn suggests until you get close to the epoxy layer. Then I would use a Dremel with a wire wheel and GENTLY without over heating the blank remove the remainder of the foam remnants attached to the epoxy. It will be ok to leave a layer of epoxy on the blank. No matter what method you use it will be messy, I would try to have a shop vacuum running cl
Forum: rodboard

Marc To answer your question. The chrome minima 4's are good quality guides for any level of rod. If you are building a rod to a customer specification the customer should decide on color. If the customer is not sure what he wants, then as a rod builder you should go through the ritual of explaining the aspects of the different type of guides. Having a few examples on hand would help in th
Forum: rodboard

Robert If the rod is new and in warranty, work it out with Black Hole. If not ask for their advise. Otherwise you are on your own. There are a few things you can try with out the fear of damaging or removing too much material. Is the ferrule metal or graphite? If metal I would check if the ferrules to see if they have been squeezed or bent out of round. The male end can be checked with
Forum: rodboard

Marc On occasion I found some reel seats have one end ever so slightly larger than the other end. When that happens I install the arbores from the loose end, no special rational but that is what I do. John
Forum: rodboard

Will Good work! I will look into doing one for myself. Check out the Pac Bay minima 4 guides they are lighter than Alconites, and in my opinion hold up better than ceramic guides. I never had a problem with any type of luine. God luck! John
Forum: rodboard

Will I use a CRB IS701M, 7' 1 14-18 line wt 1 - 2 lure wt, Fast action, .453 butt, 6 tip, 2.1 oz wt If you like a lighter blank checkout the CRB IS701L. Don't let the low cost of these blanks suggest inferior quality, they are well made and reliable. The guides I use are Pac Bay Minima 4 guides chrome. They are affordable, lighter than ceramic rings, and sturdy. I use cor
Forum: rodboard

Robert It would look odd to who? and who cares! You need to get fishing. It's one of those things that no one would notice, but you know it's there and it gnaws at your brain,however after time it will blend in and you will forget about it as well. Replace the guide and have fun fishing. Good luck John
Forum: rodboard

If the cork becomes too thin it may be considered a veneer bonded to a form. In my opinion cork, because of its inherent nature to have voids or inclusions would be a poor choice to use as a veneer. If the cork is not completely bonded to the substrate, the cork would lack strength and be very fragile and can easily break off in sections under normal activity. I personally do not use cork
Forum: rodboard

Phil hit the nail right on the head. Regardless of the blank selected it is the finished product and the user that sets the dynamic characteristics. The dynamic characteristics of a blank changes dramatically when the guides, tip and grips are installed plus the type of reel the line used and finally who is going to handle the finished product.. The rod blank is just one component of a fin
Forum: rodboard

Phil hit the nail right on the head. Regardless of the blank selected it is the finished product and the user that sets the dynamic characteristics. The dynamic characteristics of a blank changes dramatically when the guides, tip and grips are installed plus the type of reel the line used and finally who is going to handle the finished product.. The rod blank is just one component of a fin
Forum: rodboard

I never mix any type of epoxy in any kind of plastic container, I use aluminum cans-cups or foil. Certain types of plastics can interact with the epoxy and contaminate the epoxy. If bonding grips and reel seats, this contamination may not be detrimental, if it is used in a finish application the contamination may cause noticeable cosmetic effects. If you must use plastic mixing cups make absolute
Forum: rodboard

Adam If you can slide the seat up to the first guide, that means the area the seat fits on to should be exposed. Coat the area with thick epoxy and work the seat back and forth to get epoxy under the seat. Set the seat, align with guides, clean up the area and let it sit until the epoxy cures. I don't there will be a need for a pin. Good luck John
Forum: rodboard

Todd I'll break the "ice" and then run for cover. Based on your information, in my opinion I would recommend. The following. Given the distance from the tip to the center of the reel seat 32 to 33 inches then For 3 guides .......... From the tip 4.0, 11.5 and 20.5 inches. For 4 guides ...........From the tip 3.0, 7.0, 12.5 and 20.5 inches. I would opt for 4 guides. goo
Forum: rodboard

William Here is a wild idea. Slide a piece of PVC over the handle until it reaches the rear of the reel seat and just extends past the rear grip. Duct tape the PVC to the reel seat to form a seal. Attach a vacuum hose to the other end. Mix some thin slow curing epoxy, turn on the vacuum and hope there is suction at the free end of the reel seat if so paint epoxy to the end of the reel seat al
Forum: rodboard

Matthew It seems to me that the type and size of rod determines the class or series of the reel. For instance I would not put a 4000 series reel on a 5 foot ultra lite rod at the same time I would not put a 1000 series reel on a 12 foot surf rod. In a given class of reel there are small variations in size, weight and geometric configuration, but when mated to a suitable sized rod these varia
Forum: rodboard

I have been using the Minima 4 Tich/Tich guides but I would like to switch to the Minima 4 Chrm/Chrm guides. Does anyone have anyone have any experience with the Chrm/Chrm guides. I do mostly fresh water Bass fishing and I think the Tich/Tich guides are an over kill. I am thinking its like comparing SIC guides to Aconite or Hardloy. Thanks John
Forum: rodboard

Tom I would keep the length from the reel seat to the tip standard but I would shorten the butt length. Having a long grip can be cumbersome in a kayak. One of my rods has a 5 inch grip and does not get in the way of anything. You will be surprised how comfortable a short grip rod can be. Good Luck John
Forum: rodboard

Jeroen In my opinion you do not need two blanks to make one. If you use a high quality metal ferrule (brass/chrome) the male end has a slightly different ID than the female end to allow for the taper, If its important and want to hide the fact a metal ferrule is used, then start the wrap at the base of the female end and run the thread to the end of the ferrule. One will have to look very c
Forum: rodboard

John W I wrap all my guides from the rod to the foot. John De
Forum: rodboard

Joe I know its time consuming but to play safe I would start with the17/64 drill and then use the next size drill until I reach the hole size needed. By removing the minimum amount of material the drill bit will tend to keep centered in the hole. Doing this will be the safest way to keep the hole in the cork straight and concentric with the OD especially if you are drilling by hand. If
Forum: rodboard

Cameron I Like the Pac Bay Minima 4 guides, use them all the time, never had a problem with them. Great in fresh or salt water. Good for all types of lines.The rings are stainless steel and will never crack, chip or fall out and are light weight. Also they are durable. I think they will work well for your UL rod.. I guess you know by now I like Minima 4 guides. Worth checking out. Good l
Forum: rodboard

Glenn The only thing I can add to roger's advise is to securely clamp the seat in a vise and use two hands to cut the seat this will avoid the tendency for the Dremel to to slip or wander. John
Forum: rodboard

Tom If you remember the old style pistol grip rods the blank was secured to the handle by the last inch or so of the blank. At that time it was "state of the art. With that in mind if the joint does not extend beyond the center of the reel seat you will have no problems. I agree with Steve when he wrote "the fact the joint is going to take place under the reel seat itself should ser
Forum: rodboard

Ed If he insists on you making another rod then think about this, quote him a ridiculously high price ( then you fix it on his dime) and if he balks tell him that he is a bad risk. Remind him if one has many auto accidents eventually the insurance companies will drop them as a "bad risk" and if they do get insurance the premiums are outrageous. That should discourage him, if not a
Forum: rodboard

Steve The thread will always run over the top of the blank. It depends on which side of the blank you are sitting when you start the wrap. Some setups do not let you work from either side and that could be an issue. If you can only work from one side then you may need a reversible motor or you have to turn by hand. John
Forum: rodboard

Marc Try cutting strips of inner tube or equivalent and wrapping it around the butt. You could wrap it with multiple layers of tape if you protect the butt from the tape 's mastic. Lastly you could place an eva "sleeve" over the butt and clamp on the sleeve. The idea is to place something between the chuck jaws and the butt to minimize direct clamping pressure yet offer enough resista
Forum: rodboard

Carrington "Formby's Tung oil finish is a high quality varnish made from a balanced blend of Tung oil and other fine penetrating oils", "Formby's Tung oil finish penetrates wood, providing protection from the inside out" (says so on the can). It should withstand any normal fishing abuse. When you are finished for the day the rod or any rod for that matter should be rinsed o
Forum: rodboard

David Prep all surfaces If the crack is not that far into the butt, I would get a oak dowel and taper (sand) it to fit the blank. The idea is to support the blank from being "crushed" or from being squeezed. John
Forum: rodboard

David I would try to find a section from a broken rod and fit it into the butt of your blank. I would have the rod section or "plug" extend 1/2 to 1 inch past the crack line. Temporarily wrap the OD at the end of the blank with thread or tape so the crack does not open when the plug is pressed in place. Coat the plug and the inside of the blank with epoxy and press the plug in pl
Forum: rodboard