Realizing there are at least two ways to interpret the post title, i'll leave one and deal with the other. When reaming out a two layer cork butt, one that has rubberized cork at the very bottom, i'm finding it difficult to enlarge the hole in the rubberized section. It mostly just compresses when the reamer reaches that far down, and i don't want to blow out the cork trying. I'm also worried if
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Thanks for the responses and the help!
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Trying Airwave guides for the first time. The directions say to place the stripper guide 19.5" from the fully extended spool to the primary ring of the stripper guide. When the guide is set on the blank, though, the primary ring (which I'm assuming is the larger outer ring) sits at a pretty steep angle. What point on that ring do I measure to? The point closest to the reel, which would be th
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For small guides, the little rubber bands orthodontists use work great. Even with the smallest sizes, i still have to double them sometimes, but they hold well and leave no residue. Just ask at an orthodontist's office. They're used to those requests from all sorts of craft makers.
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Awesome. Thanks for all the info!
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A friend wants me to build him a rod, and he's curious about using recoil guides. I have used them on fly rods before, with a textured line, and they were noisy. It didn bother me, but I want to make him aware of all the potential issues. He fishes with braid. For this of you who have used them in this application (mainly for largemouth bass in his case), were they noisy? Second question, did
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Anybody know of Seeker dealers in the Southeast US? I've tried the locator on their website, but it just says no results for anywhere from FL to VA. Not sure if that's right or if it's a quirk on the site. Thought I'd ask here.
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Thanks, guys. This is very helpful. Did a search on these after reading Capt Neil's first reply. On here there is a suggestion for a different tip that matches the guides pretty well. I'm gonna try them with the Minima tip. It's an easy fix if I need to switch them later.
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Building some rods specifically for inshore kayak fishing for our local kayak shop. They'll be used by clients we guide, many of whom are very new to kayak fishing. So I'm looking for suggestions for inexpensive but durable guide sets. Mostly targeting slot reds, trout, and some smaller bluefish. 7' baitcasting rod, rated 8-17lb 7'6" spinning rod, rated 6-12lb Will be primarily fis
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Tom, Let's see if I'm understanding what you're saying. Guide to the back, reach under the ring, so that the brush is touching the rod on the far side of the guide and down below it? If the guide were pointing to 3:00, the brush would make contact at 4:00 or so?
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I've scoured the articles in the library and run a search here but found very little, so I'll ask my newb question here. I get that the best way to apply finish with a brush is not to brush it on but to load the brush, touch it to the rod while its spinning, and let the finish flow onto the wraps. What about between the feet of a double foot guides with under wraps? I don't want to finish the
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This may be the single most helpful tip i've read here yet. Thanks so much!!!
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Black and a very light chartreuse, almost yellow. The two spools you see on the thread carriage in the picture. Oh yeah - another newbie mistake didn't realize until too late that the black thread was size D. :(
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Just one layer of epoxy in between. I know I could have put two. It does have good depth to it; that just doesn't show in the picture. The picture is also taken with flash (from an iPhone, so it's a blast flash) and a strong overhead light. I did notice when I turned the direct overhead off that much more of the blue from the over wrap comes through. It's nearly invisible in this picture.
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So here's my first attempt at a tiger wrap. I'm a little disappointed the pattern came out so uniform, but mostly I'm just pleased that it worked at all. Guess maybe I should have been more aggressive burnishing the under wraps? I also wish I had divided the black and blue wraps with a trim band, but I'm still real new at this, so I'll leave that for the next one. Welcome any feedback or s
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Email sent.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Amazing what you can find on this very site if you > take a moment and look. Try this: > > > > .................. Tom, I did read that article, which is how I knew the nail knot trick. Midway through the wraps for the tiger wrap base, though, they had come loose and completely unraveled.
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I'm working on my first Tiger Wrap, here: I want to use narrow trim bands at each end in silver metallic. I've read the article in the library and followed Tom's instructions to do basically a nail knot. The metallic thread, though, is so slippery - especially on this Batson blank with a clear gloss finish - that they're not holding. Once I trim the ends of the thread they just unravel.
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Lou Auret Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Give Lance at Swampland a call. He will have teh > MHX and also some Seeker options( my first choice) > that he could advise you on. > Its what his customers fish for down in Louisiana. Just curious - what Seeker blank do you like for this application?
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Thinking about trying a tiger wrap on the rod I'm working on. Before I start I wanted to ask if there are any guidelines for the overal length of a butt wrap. Is it some percentage of the space between the fore grip and the first guide? Something based off the fore grip length? I know it can be any length I want it, but I'm wondering if there is some proportional guide that is generally more
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First try at a tuna cord rear grip with turkshead knot, Alps seat, and x flocked eva fore grip. All on a Batson RCLB79ML.
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I believe this may be the exact setup I got from Roger. If not, it's the twin if mine. You can see it lurking in the background here But since he made it for me, I stumbled onto the Clemens, so I think I'm going to have something like this made locally, I hope. Roger, will that work with my motor?
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Roger, Is the white hardboard slick and shiny like signboard? I don't know that they carry that down here, but I'll look. I built a bench back in WV the same way, except I trimmed the frame with 1x3 oak and left the oak 18/" higher than the subsurface. That way I could just drop the Masonite down into the frame, and it wouldn't move around in me. I may really just leave it, though. Th
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Thanks, Ken. Feeling a little sheepish now. :) I think I'll leave the bench top as is for now. I like workbench tops that look like they've been worked on - stains and scratches and stuff to me add to the enjoyment of using something like that. The good news is that it's just BC plywood and easily replaced or altered if I change my mind. I wouldn't have thought to use flooring on it, so I appreci
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Ken, I am happy to report that the lathe is firmly bolted to the bench top and all secure. Now as far as the floor goes... this was built as a utility room at the end of a three bay garage. It's part of the rectory owned by the church I serve here in Savannah. The house was built in the 20s and is adjacent to the church. It has not been lived in for decades but used as classrooms, office,
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Hey Roger, The bench is 2' x 12' as the bed on the wrapper is 11'. The bench is about 40" tall, which puts the blank at about 46". It's a stand up bench. Before i built it, i either worked over the island in our kitchen or on a shelf in the room of my old house. Both areas were a good bit lower, as i intended to sit while working. What i found though was that i invariably stood up. I
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Spent the New Year's holiday turning the junk/storage room at our house into The Fish Room. Not done yet but getting there.
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Thanks, Jess. I did see that one. I was wondering about the one with the sliding aluminum piece that gives you the line on top.
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That chuck has been on my wish list for a while now.
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Anyone know if the butt wrap jig in this picture is still commercially available? I know it would be fairly easy to make, but I sold all my workshop tools before I moved this year, so I don't have a table saw or router table any more.
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