Roger, thanks for the the great explanation.
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Well Arnot, I guess I'll retract my suggestion for a CA finish. My handles are already turned and finished and I'm going with them. Maybe I'll just use that rod sparingly.
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Chad, That's interesting about the finish cracking. I know a lot of pen turners that swear by it and don't have that problem.
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I did thin the first coat 50/50.
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Arnot, Here is a picture of a couple of ice rods I built with birch bark handles. I used 10 coats of pure tung oil on them. Not a "tung oil finish like Formby's which is a blend. I was hoping to get a shiny finish but was never able to even though the I polished them on the lathe.. Here is the rod I'm working on now. I'll have more photos in a few days when it's done. The pictu
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Pat, Good procedure and I have two questions. 1- What brand and where do you obtain the transfer tape? When I've looked for it in the past I've only found it in large size or large quantities. 2- I've been pretty successful using Scotch brand MATTE FINISH REMOVABLE TAPE (not regular Scotch tape)
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Steve, Do you have any pics of that build? I've got a 2 piece four wt I've been doing the same thing with. Would love to see your set up.
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Well said Joe, weight is not the only consideration in the usability of the rod.
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I do the same as Scott, on the lathe and use a parting tool. If you don't have a parting tool, you could use a a fine hacksaw blade and clean up with sand paper. I can never get an acceptably straight cut with the Dremel.
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I talked to him a couple of days ago, he'll get back to you.
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Carrington, Looks great. Did you buff after the Tung Oil to get the high gloss.
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Jerry, Please send me the info also, I've been looking for the exact same thing. Thanks
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Just typical because you didn't create a table with a range of tape widths and solve the equation for length. You could have then created a nomograph to simplify the calculation for all possible combinations of tape widths, and radii along a cone. ;-)
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Typical engineer. ;-)
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Thanks for the great information guys. I've got a MHX PF722L 2-piece panfish rod I was considering using them on and it sounds like they would be a good fit for it.
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Mine arrived yesterday
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Dennis and Billy, good info, thanks
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I know that the match guides are a taller guide with a small ring size. What is the application(s) for this type of guide? I've done some searches on it and find all sorts of places to buy them but haven't found any good explanation of exactly what they're used for and why. Thanks
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Jimmy, I'll guarantee that if you post on your instagram page, I'll never see it. I check the photo page here daily and I bet there are lots of other builders that do also.
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These pics are of a Phenix XG-1 S-Glass rod that I built. I use it primarily for cranks but also for jerk baits when I fish them (not a lot). I think it meets all the criteria you are looking for except that it is a 7 footer. Shortening at the butt end would not be a problem for this rod. I like the feel of this rod, It transmits every vibration of the crank and is very flexible so would work
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Roger, the idea that the line does not touch the guides during the cast does not make sense. What you are suggesting is that once the line is up to speed it flies down the guide train perfectly centered in the middle of every guide. In actuality, it continually touches every guide during the entire cast.
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Amazing video, I didn't know people did this.
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Fishing for Marlin from a kayak, I'd like to see a video of that. Who's really in control. As Tom said either side works for the spiral, build it the way that makes sense for you. The marbling shouldn't make a difference for the size of you are using either.
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Here's the wrap, Used Billy's royal blue shade pack but one of the middle colors is a sulky thread.
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Thanks for the replies. This is pretty much what I thought but it is always a good idea to access the brain trust. I'll be wrapping today.
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I'm doing my first decorative wrap and using Billy's Royal Blue shade pack. I'd like to add an intermediate color between two colors in the pack. I've got that color in a Prowrap thread. Since I'd like to complete the wrap this weekend I'm asking if it OK to use the Prowrap and Madeira together? If not I'll order what I need and do it next weekend. I've looked at both JoAnn and Hancock and ne
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Glue them up with the cork and turn them using very light cuts. I don't have any pictures to show as I'm just experimenting with this technique but I'll put some up in the near future. The differences in the hardness of the materials adds difficulty.
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The cutters from Hobby Lobby are made for punching out paper. I have several in different diameters and use them primarily to cut rounds out of old hotel room cards. I use those as white trim bands in cork handles. They would work well for your pictures
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John, I don't think it's quite the same. The Bubble Buster seems to break the surface tension on the epoxy and the bubbles are gone. The heat from a flame reduces the viscosity of the epoxy and the bubbles flow out. I'd like to see one of the Mudhole guys comment on what the Bubble Buster is or at least how it works. You out there Todd?
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I use it all the time. After mixing I pour the epoxy in a flat aluminum dish and give it one spritz of the bubble buster. Any bubbles present immediately vanish. It has no affect on the final product as far as I can tell.
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