If I doing a closed dec. wrap that has a whole bunch of threads, I will CP the locking points but will make my tie off little longer and not CP where I will cut the ends. That way I can feather the ends easier and it won't be so bumpy/lumpy where the ends of the wrap are cut off. If I'm doing a simple open wrap I'll add CP some times to keep the tie off shorter.
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I find warming the hardner will degrade the pot life. When I warm my epoxy in the syringe, I only warm up the resin. Mix it, then I pour it out on to warm foil.
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I believe it is a matter of personal preference. My personal 7'6" rods have the reel seat about 7"-8" from the end of the butt cap, some others I've built were 10"-13". All depends on what's comfortable to you and balanced.
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just press the ring down with your finger with pressure to keep it still. That's all I do and it comes out fine.
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I have found all colors are the same, although the possibilities are endless such as you can go with adding half a drop less and a tad more epoxy to make it translucent than others if desired. Test your thoughts/ideas on a scrap piece and find what you like. You'll be surprised with what you can come up with. I do all mine at the same time, the effect of "bleeding" into other colors
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Generally/regularly, I place them on the left side. The majority of rods I've done were for right handed anglers, the cast right handed and can just hang their lure/hook on the left with their left hand.
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As stated dry-fit everything, everytime. I know what it's like waiting on parts and while you have a simple task such as the reel-seat and handle to put in place, without everything (all parts to your design/fit) there, negative results is a guine possibility. I still have some left over arbors, because I've found the samething you mentioned - so I refer to the tape when arbors are needed.
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You definitely need to ream the cork with a round reamer, I generally ream until it's about 1-1/2" to 2" from it's resting point. You really do not want to force it into place, the cork will split. You want a snug fit for the cork to the blank, you do not want it too tight so squeeze the epoxy out to the point there isn't any/enough to adhere the cork to the blank.
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I put them in place at the time I install the cork(s) and reel seat with rodbond as I would with the nylon ones then wrap. Make sure you measure where you want them to be located. For example, if you build American Tackle Matrix rods with a split grip and foregrip, measure the diameter in millimeters where you will want the top of the butt grip to go, then the bottom of the handle grip, then to
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LOL, yes you will. To begin with, try laying them out like a spinning rod, 1st (stripper) guide is at or near 0degrees, the tip is 180. Use the template it will help tremendously, or it did for me anyway.
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I've done a logo in the indention of a rubber butt cap recently, I guess I'll have to see how it turns out. I buffed/roughed up the indention and used pigments w/epoxy for back ground color, applied the logo and applied expoy over it. Time will tell.
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LOL....I was just kidding Giving my wife thread for sewing is about the same thing as throwing it away....I'll never see it again and she won't use it. Yes, I do love my sweet little wife dearly!
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I don't have any issues with short-foot guides. I use the NBRL's from American Tackle Company, even with a short "neck" you can put about 2 Forhan wraps on it with size A.
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Yep, best thing is to cut it off and re-wrap it. Pull a few good lengths off the spool and check to see if it is the entire spool. If it is, just trash it or give it to the wife for her sewing (if applicable), and get another spool of thread.
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Here's another plug for Decal Connection....Great service. I also use waterslide from local hobby stores.
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I usually end up with 3 or 4 thin coats when it's all complete. My 1st coat is always very thin. After I trim any bumps that I find, I'll add the second coat. Decals and rod labels are generally 3 thin coats. What's important to me is what I prefer, and more importantly covering the thread work evenly.
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Well, tax time has rolled around this month again and with all the invoices created and no other rods being built this month/year until January, I had a chance to do them while a couple of rods were spinning with epoxy. My state taxes are due on the 20th, so I like to get them out at least 5 days prior to the due date. Parish/County taxes are quarterly as well as Federal. State tax done, check
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Try the light build FC or go straight to TM light build. I was using FC Lite for the longest and finally gave TM Light a try (only got the 8oz). I like TM better and about to order some more. I think the TM goes on thinner and water clear'er, IMO. I stopped using HiBuild because I wanted more thin coats, especially working with micro's.
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Not sure what you have going on Bill, but if you must wrap on top of another wrap - wrap the 2nd wrap in a different direction than the first.
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Merrick Tackle has them.
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I didn't care for them all that much. I tried one with a heat-gun (on low) and the fins on the fish cracked as I applied it to the blank. I tried another time in warm/hot water, it did better only cracked at the dorsal fin. Then I wrapped it with thread and let is sit over night. Came out pretty good.
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Exactly what Phil stated. I ordered some a few weeks ago and the peel and stick are great! Plus, Debbie and Chuck are awesome to work with and super-duper fast quality service.
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Dave.....Amen! You nailed it, and after my visit with one very recently, I have to agree with your prospective.
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I lay them out on the rod and wrap them before test cast. It's true, not every blank is the same. Building alot of the same type of rods (casting and spinning) all with micros, I keep track of the layout measurements on each build and wrap them at that location on the next one. Now, even though the blanks are identical, they still vary, some what, so the adjustment after many, many test cast a
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ohhhh MY! First, glad to know everything ended up better than it began. Second, thanks for the good laugh. What was so funny to me was thinking back in my younger years when I had a similar experience. Thank you Keith, and again I'm glad it turned out better than the alternative.
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I use PB thread and used to get sooooo frustrated with exactly what you have going on. Until I took a magnifying glass to the wraps, once I did - I realized I was not packing well enough (thought I was). With tighter wraps and better packing, it will minimize "blank bleed thru". Even white threads have minimal "blotchy-ness" on dark blanks with enough tread packing and burn
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Get Billy's book, you will use less tape and have less headaches removing that tape you use. No more "oops, the blade slipped and sliced half of the wrap that I just spent 7 hours on" accidents.
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I went with some Pac Bay 950yds spools, fits on the thread carriage very well.
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"I've turned some cork down to the diameter of the seat and it turned out great. " +1 I've used the casting SK2's and like working with them, gives you another area to wrap or add a little touch to it like a decal or something.
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You have confirmed what I have "is" the standard/track model. Sorry for being confused. thanks Ken!
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