I just use metallic copper for orange, and metallic pale gold for yellow.
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No primer but it Might take even 3 coats ......i only use flex coat lite and have had to use as many as 5 coats, on hot days when it really thins out and flows well!
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Clyde.....I must make a couple of hundred casts per weekend and NEVER had the braid (stren) crack off with my fish finder! I HAVE seen the braid cut through a plastic fish finder though..... They are so cheap ,I buy them in bulk, use them one trip out, then discard them.
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Dave, I use the improved clinch knot & the palomar- both pretty easy to tie. I don't think you'll notice much loss (if any) in casting distance with the heaver line?! WARNING: I used to use Power Pro- but that seemed to break off (might have had a bad batch) with almost every other cast- no matter how I fished. Someone recommended I switch to Stren super braid (which I did-WOW great st
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ALL my surf rods (and thats the only kind of fishing I do) have 12's at the top. Call me crazy but.... I use 50lb test braid and NO shock leader- so no knots to pass through the guides. I tie my hook to a 15-20" -60lb flouro leader, then join the braid and flouro with a 90lb B swivel. A heavy duty fishfinder to hold the weight slides on the braid. Unless your throwing more than 8 n bait
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Thanks Mike!
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Got the new Rodmaker today- OUTSTANDING- as always- Thank YOU!! I try and keep track of the numbers on the cover so my subscription will not run out. On volume 8 - issue 4 I found the numbers 8-6 after my name-which I thought ment my next to last copy? The lattest copy volume 8 - issue 5 has the same numbers after my name-8-6....am I looking in the wrong place? I don't want to miss a single iss
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You might try vineger....it's acidic and breaks down some adhesives quite well....worth a try?!
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This might have just been my experiance (and I'd like to hear what others think)but.... DON"T use epoxy to glue anything in the opening of the male ferrul......been there -done that! With one good hard cast you'll hear a loud "CRACK" as the epoxy seperates from the inside of the blank. When put under stress there is a lot of compression in there that epoxy does not like! I'm no
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I'm sure he ment instead...caulk applied inside the male tip becomes the plug when dry-as does the rod bond. just put some in ,wipe level with the blank, and clean up any that might get on the outside.
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Why not just use NCP goldenrod and skip the cp intirely?
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Lamiglas Also makes 12-15 ft blanks-Ideal for what you want! GSB1502MH 12'6" Lure Weight: 6-16 GSB1621MH 13'6" " 6-16 GSB1801H 15'0" " 4-12 GSB1802M 15'0" " 4-12
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Billy-I'm still using the same 3M belt I put on for my first guide!! It's reddish in colour and said for metal right on the hang tag . I use a 40 grit -its a bit too rough (but works fast), I should find something a bit finer- but no finer than 100.
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I've wrapped ALL my heavy saltwater rods holding the spool of thread with my hands, and a big cardboard box with v grooves cut out at each end holding the blank!!! FREE FREE FREE FREE FREE ! Ican also make adjustments any way I want...If I mess up, more free boxes can be found out on the street every nite! ;^)
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I'm a graduate of theRhode Island School of Design . I studied colour theory extensivly so- you can trust me when I say....Listen to Putter AND Rich- They know what they are talking about!!! If you still want the garnet in the wrap , I would recommend no more than a single thread band thrown in.
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Great advice!!!!!!!!!Thanks Guys...I knew You would point me in the right direction!! ;^)
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When you cut the tip off a fiberglass blank, how do you figure out its new lure weight rating...is there even a way to do this? Thanks, -eric
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I'm down to my last blank for the season. It's a Lami 6909 one piece (fiberglas) 9ft ,rated 50lb line weight, 1-4oz lure. Since I've only built 2 piece graphite in the 11 foot range-all conventional but two- I'm at a loss for what to do with this stick? I only bought it cause Mudhole had such a good close out price (i couldn't resist!). It's a little on the heavy side for what I'm used to, bu
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I've had this problem only once.....I concluded (cause it's the only thing I did differant), it was beacuse I put too many coats of epoxy on top. I put a decal on my last rod, waited 24 hours applied epoxy - no problem-clear- next day put another coat on-no problem -clear. Put another coat on the following day and BAM...the decal looked cloudy!? I usually only put one coat of Flex coat lite on
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Well I use a two piece for pencil poppers and have NEVER had a problem! Was out three hours yesterday shaking away and my connection stayed tight. Just use common sense.....check the tightness every now and then and you should have no problems either. I also through 10 oz with a two piece...no problems there either.
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After your finish is dry...take a razor and carefully scrape away any bits you can't remove with your fingers. Scuff up the cured finish an little with a scotch brite pad and, reapply another coat. You should not see any visable sign that anything ever happend, (had a big fuzzy moth fly into my last coat of finish on my last rod)!
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Although I haven't built many, ALL the rods i've built have been heavy surf rods. go with the Lami for the conventional. Tom's right-The bumper is hte ONLY way to go! I use heavey 50lb power pro braid (same diameter as 12 lb mono with a heavy fluro shock leader. 20, 12, 16,16, the rest 12's or something to that affect.......
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Check out their web site...it WILL have answers to all your question!
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I used the popsicle stick trick last nite.... WORKS like a charm! By the way......thanks for all the suggestions HOWEVER.... I DON"T have any problems wrapping my rods. I just have a hard time removing the excess after i'm FINISHED. (and I have no problems with waste removal upsetting my wraps either). Cutting down through many layers of thread and tape is just a real B*$@H! Having that
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Thanks Noel and Billy!!!! Duhhhh- why didn't I think of these simple fixes?????? Art- I don't like getting sticky tape residue all over the blank and- I hate having to cut off a piece of tape for each thread I lay down ( i wrap all my wraps one thread at a time-spool in hand). I find it much easier to have a mass of sticky on both ends I can just stick the thread into.
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When I do a butt wrap, I apply masking tape to the blank at either end of the wrap. I put the tape sticky side up, and wrap it around-on itself -so it won't slide up or down. As the wrap progesses and the thread builds up, I have to add more layers of tape to give me something to hold down the thread ends. I usually end up with 4 or 5 layers of tape and thread. I lay down heavy twine lengthwi
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As an artists I have a secret weapon! Try rinsing your brush out in denatured alcohol then (here's the secret weapon) Get a bar of that old fashion "Octagon soap" its made from lye and will really clean those brushes. I have even gotton red oil paint out of a light coloured wool carpet with this stuff! The best part is it's soooo cheap and can be found in most super markets and drug
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I'm about to build another rod (this time for myself)! I read the artical in rod makers mag about spiral wraps and want to give it a shot. My question is this......Throughout the article it talks about using this method for baitcasting rods. Pardon my ignorance but ,can it be used with good effect for a light lure(1/2 -2 oz) surf rod?
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I felt that way at first too but..... watch artie wrap the fish wrap and, open Dale's book to the fish wrap page- at the same time. Watch what Artie does and then look at the book and see whats written. I bet you'll begin to make since out of it in no time?!
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Plasti-kote also makes a spray on clear coat that works fine. I've used it with no problems.
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