Bob I just built a switch rod last year for the Erie tribs also. I only build fly rods and am a firm believer in single foot guides, but put tich snakes on this rod because of the icing problem, Just something to think about. Also don't go to small.
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Thanks Jim after looking at it for about the 10th time I have finally seen the light!
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I assume these are the blanks with the fuchsia metallic finish? Are these blanks just for us builders right now, because I can't find a rod on the St. Croix web site that uses them? One last question,what Sponsors handle them? Thanks.
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I have always used an electric dryer after applying the epoxy and have had descent results. I am thinking about hand rotating the rod this time, but I made an epoxy ramp on this rod instead of a winding check. My thinking is how is the epoxy going to self level on a ramp? Should I level the ramp and apply the finish to it separately?
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George, Batson makes a lower and upper grip designed for that blank. Check out their web site. I build one this year with that grip and their window reel seat with a laser engraved fish,as per Karry Batsons suggestion. Very nice!
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Bill, H&H has Rainshadow blanks & kits that are from Batson ( I believe this is what Jeff is talking about) and they are a sponsor SORRY THEY WERE A COUPLE WEEKS AGO
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My post is now gone, if I did sometime wrong please let me know. This has never happened before. SORRY IT IS NOW BACK
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I am in the process of ordering componites for a 7 wt. switch rod for Great lake steelhead fishing. Have always been an advacate for single foot guides, but think I should go with double foot this time do to the additional pressure of a two handed cast and mainly because of iceing. I know you guys will lead me in the right direction. Tkx in advance
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If your client is a true Steeler fan, he will know that the colors are BLACK and GOLD.
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Tkx Tom will call them in the morning
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I have some Gudebrod rod varnish that has become a little thicker than the last time I used it. Can I thin it with some paint thinner that I have? It states on the can that it thins oil-based paint and varnish. By the way what is the difference between rod varnish and wood varnish? Thanks again for your help
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Sounds like you need to prep your guides??
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Thanks guys Don Lukehart
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After reading all the posts about using ceramic guides on flyrods I'm going to get it a try. I will be using Fuji alconites, but I refuse to use a s/f ceramic for a tiptop. It seems that my only other option is a BFAT alconite tiptop. My concern is that this animal looks to be a little on the heavy side with a extra metal supports. If so will this alter the natural action of the blank? By the way
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I have always built a Rainshadow RX7 blank with the color choose of olympic green. Was thinking of trying the matted gray finish for a change. I would appreciate any advice on a thread color, because as my wife says (I can't even match my own clothes) Tks in advance
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Jim, you are the second one to refer to a locking nut?? Do you mean the large round wheel that controls the jaws or am I missing something??
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Herb, zap-a-gap can be found at any quality fly tying shop. I have found that using it on 3wt. and below weight rods is a must, naturally because of the smaller diameter, but have gotten into the habit of using it all the time. I apply it with a bodkin. Have not had a problem since. Hope this helps
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Roy you need to buy a Brother P-Touch that has a USB connecter to interface with your computer. It has it's own program that allows you to do a lot more. Also use zap-a-gap on the edges before the CP to stop lifting
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Apply the label the way you always do. Like Lou said don't touch the face of the label and make sure the edges are adhered to the blank by using the applicator that Brother supplies. I use a bodkin and apply a small line of Zap-a-Gap around the edge of the label. Next a layer of CP,you can also use Sally Hansen's hard as nails,but I prefer CP. Now you can apply your epoxy. Have had no problem usi
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I built a rod for Erie on a St Croix SC11 9' 7 wt. fly rod blank a few years back and love it to death! It was recommended by John Nagy in what I believe was his first book on Fishing Erie. Just my 2 cents
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Don't know if they have the right size, but I have picked up O-rings for my Renzetti vice and a home made hand wrapper @ True Value hardware store. Might even try Ace
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Tks Buddy, I think I am seeing the light at the end of the tunnel now!
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I usually use SF titanium carbide snakes. What formula do you use for the rod length and line weight size???????
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Tks Joshua, that been said how do you know what size to start with (at the but end) and when to change sizes and how many of one size as you get closer to the tip? Hope I didn't make that to confusing?
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I have been building rods for about 3 years now, fly rods only. My source for guide sizing has been charts, such as St Croix. It seems that most of you are using smaller guides than I? Is there a secret chart that you Pros have access to? Maybe a past issue of RM would help? Any help would be appreciated. Tks in advance
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Thanks Ernie. I had seen the picture before and thought thats what you were talking about, but wanted to make sure. Just have to figure out where to get the cork tape?
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Ernie, I just got the RW-3XL and I have heard about taping the head shut with masking tape. But what is this cork tape and how does it work?
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I am a Eastern fly fisherman and an all around rod here is a 8'6"" 5 weight . anything in the 8' range and less is used on smaller streams, around a 15 to 20 foot cast. IMHO!
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I have a seven piece Forecast fly rod blank that is 1/2 completed with a rod case. While surfing the internet I found a rod and reel case nomally $49 going for $17.40 tomorrow. Would like to get it, but I'm having trouble finding another 7 piece blank out there to complement it. Would appreciate any help. Tkx in advance
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Ditto on the plumbers tape. It is great on the threaded areas!!!
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