Tom I guess I am just old school on ceramics as strippers. Took a long time to get to single foot guides and only one stripper on a rod over a 5wt.!!
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Thanks Adam I also have them on one rod and like them also but don't know about the long run and as I stated to Tom I am curious why some people here are changing when it comes to strippers?
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I have seen posts on the minama's as running guides but it seems that a lot of people here like to use other guides for strippers and tip-tops. That is my concern Tom?
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I am in the process of building a 8' 2wt. 2piece fly rod for a friend that has been using mine for the past year. Have heard a lot about the Fugi KWAG stripper guides and thought I would try them on this rod. They really do look nice and I do like ceramics for strippers but I can notice the difference in weight between them and the Minama 4's and that is without a scale! I also realize that they
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I was looking at the size 5's also and they looked a little tight but then again I didn't try them. I am using them on a 3 weight rod I am building this Winter. Just a thought you might want to look at the Fugi Alconite tip-top. It comes in smaller sizes, is light weight and I like a ceramic guide on top. I also use them for my stripper guides.
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I know what you are talking about Mike I have some of the SA loops also and they are somewhat smaller. I just ran a Rio weighted forward 7 weight line with a standard loop to loop connection through a size 6 Minama 4 with no problem and I had the fly line doubled over on itself. Hope this helps.
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If you have a 7 weight line just measure the line to leader knot diameter and make for some allowance. The knot will probable never make it through the tip-top when bringing in a fish on a 9' rod. JMHO.
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A size 6 is .202 by my caliper Mike. That is a XF4XG-6. If you are considering a size 7 it is .248.
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Mike go to Jann's Netcraft and click on parts sizing under Ask The Expert in the left hand column. You can then download and print a 5 page document that has what you need and can use as future reference.
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I am replacing a guide on an older St Criox avid rod (AF703). It was built around 2000. Do any of you out there know what color thread was used at that time? It appears to be an off gray in color. Thank you in advance.
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Sorry to hear that Tom.
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I thought I would go to the CCS data site but it doesn't seem to be in the sponsors list anymore. Went to Common Cents Info and can't get into it in the Links either. What am I doing wrong??
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Ken if you decide to go with the Batson RX8 blank,give them a call to make sure it is a 6'2" blank because the Cat# XF662-4 indicates to me that it is 6'6" 2weight 4piece. I have always wondered about this? I Have their 7'9" 3weight blank and it is now my GO-TO small stream rod!
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Clear, I don't like the white background. I prefer the blank color to be the background and I know that this is part of my problem.
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Jeff I tried coloring the background the same as the rod and I can tell you that it doesn't work, at least on a laser printer.
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Thanks for your input Jim but after buying a new laser printer that I will probable only use for this one project I was hoping for something else. I have used a Brother P-Touch before but don't like the results. Decal connection is nice but everyone seams to like their own name on the rod (more personal) and not everyone has the same name!
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Last year I bought some laser waterslide decal paper with a Randy Parpart dvd from @#$%&. Used it on a Dan Craft blank (color was like a light gray) and was very happy! Built a fly rod for my neighbor using a blue forecast blank this year. Applied a decal over a base of epoxy and could not see the lettering on the decal. Tried it on a Mud Hole MHX blank, color is slate, and could not see it eithe
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Tkx Bill don't know how I missed that?
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I know that I saw them on a Sponsors web page a while back but can't seam to be able to find them now. Any help please?
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I am in need of a 10' 4 piece 7 weight fly rod blank for Lake Erie steelhead. Already have built the Batson switchrod that is 10'8". It is a nice rod but I find it to top heavy and I am wanting to build a single handed rod this time to replace my St. Criox 9 footer and would also like something different than a St. Croix. Tkx in advance for an help!
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That's what I kind of thought but wanted to make sure. Thanks Tom.
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That is what I would like to do Tom. Restore it to it's natural look and feel, but if I have to sand it down to far I will be cutting into the epoxy ramp.
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A number of years ago I applyed 3 thin coats of True-Oil to a grip on an older Dan Craft blank that has since been my go to rod. This blank has been since discontinued. I really prefer the natural cork feel. Is there anything I can do? Is True-Oil a deep penetration oil? Also I have an epoxy ramp instead of a winding check so I am concerned about sanding!
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A guide spacing chart and a CCS data sheet ia listed on their site Bill
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Tkx John that is a big relief
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Just put two coats of regular Flexcoat on a new built. Thought that would be enough but needs one more coat. All I have left is Flexcoat light. I feel it should be ok but had better check to make sure don't want to mess it up now.. Will be less than 24 hours between coats. Tkx
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Thanks Roger I will check it out!
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Seems like there have been a lot of posts on Minima's lately including mine. What I have noticed is that no one seems to be using the PB model P or Mv minima top-top. Some use a Fuji or single foot minima. I would rather not use a single foot as a tip-top( just my preference). Cosmetically I would think that a Minima tip-top would look good. Like the model P with different ring sizes. Is there
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Thanks Tom that helps
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Is there some way to address the problem of the difference between Minima's ID vs standard ceramics ID. I believe Tom posted that it was something like 1.5 times the ID of a normal ceramic, but I have done a search on this and I've come up blank! What I am saying is that I don't want to have to post for guide sizes every time I build a new rod. Any help would be appreciated.
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