Just thought I’d share another alternative to waterslide and peel-n-stick custom decals. I have always been a bit hesitant to use sticker decals due to the risk of seeing edges lifting, air pockets, fingerprints, etc, etc. After a bit of investigation I found I could get my logo made with rub-on transfers (aka Letraset) from a local company (I’m in Australia). The smallest size they d
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If it's too difficult to open the wrap and get a razor in between the threads, then use two razors facing each other (kind of like scissors) to carefully trim the fuzz. After that, epoxy and trim any remnants as Duane suggested. Dane.
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Thanks Kevin, will definately try that approach. What size thread do you use for your overaps? My standard recipe is one wrap of A followed by two wraps of D. Cheers, Dane.
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Thanks for the good advice Billy and others. I was thinking that was my only choice. In the few rods I have sold, no one has complained as yet. But I do certainly see questions being raised by customers with future builds. So before that happens I want to be 100% confident to say that there is nothing I can do about it. Thanks again. Dane.
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Thank you all for your replies. For most of my builds, stress fractures haven't been a huge problem for me and I can happily and proudly pass on my product to my customers. However, for recent builds using AFTCO big foot rollers on x-fast tapered Calstars, the cracking has got to a point where I'm at a loss. The feet on those rollers are huge and rigid, and as Billy eluded to, I'm not prepar
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I’m a part-time rodbuilder who has just started to build a few rods for clients and would like to begin attracting some more clients. Feedback of my work has been very positive so far and I’m very confident in providing a high-quality product to those requesting a professional custom rod. I’ve built many different styles of rods and withstood a lot of trial-and-error to finally be confide
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Am planning a 80lb standup tuna stick and need to choose between a size 2 or size 4 Aftco bent butt. The manufacturer's recommendations suggest the #4 for the 80lb class, but is there any reason not to use the #2 for this line class? After all, it is lighter and cheaper! Thanks in advance, Dane.
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Thanks for the advice Roger. Might give that a go.
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Hi Les, It suprised me too! Can't easily quantify the amount of tension I had on the thread, just to say that it was a normal for me, and certainly a fair way off the breaking strain of size A thread. The crack happened while binding, so no flexing was involved. I guess it just came down to an overload of multiple pressures (i.e. bunch of small sticks being so much harder to break than one
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The frustrations of rookie mistakes are the closest thing I've found to a cure for rod building addiction (closest, but not curative). Was recently building up a St Croix and had a winding check that was too big and sat about 2mm off the blank in front of the foregrip. But rather than wait 2 weeks for the correct size to be ordered in, I thought I'd cover the gap up with a few layers of thread.
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Looking at building up a 80lb standup tuna short with a bent butt and rollers with enough clearance for wind-on leaders. However, have been looking predominately at a full Aftco kit up (winthrop is outside my budget), but have also noticed cheaper offerings from Stuart, PacBay, ATC, etc. I was wondering whether these prices are reflected in the quality of the product, or am I just paying for th
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Thanks for your responses. The question was in regards to the stripper guide being at 180 degrees to the rest of the guides. Thanks for clarifying.
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Hi Owen, Wouldn't mind clarifying a few of the mysteries of leather grip construction myself. Can I also request the same email of you? dnewman80@gmail.com Cheers.
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I've notice many of the heavy duty jigging rods being built with the stripper guide in the opposite position to the remaining guides. Please excuse my naivety, but what's the idea behind this?
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Thanks for your help lads.
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Just wondering whether anyone has any advice or experience with the epoxy cracking near the guide feet when the rod is loaded for the first time after a build. This has generally only a problem with me with long bindings on x-fast tapered blanks – particularly rollered stand up tuna rods. I’m aware that too high a temperature during curing can over harden the epoxy leading to cracks, howeve
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