I have taken the high gloss finish off epoxied wood with 0000steel wool. Lightly just to take the gloss away. Hope this helps
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Don't think you need to have two piece together. One built the guide fell at the ferrul spot so plenty of support. Another no guide a med to firm tension not to crush the blank and start about an inch above and wrap to about 1/8". Pull through and finish.
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Great news Tom. He is willing to give out info and puts on great seminars.
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As for rod tube. I went to carpet store and got the cardboard tube the is inside the roll. Nice give away and the guy was a fly fisherman. 3 1/2" inside diameter. Should be ok.
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Thanks everyone for your input. The rod will have a Pitt. Steeler theme so will probably go woth 20 high frame alconite and scale down
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Making a 10" 5 wt rod. But it will be a spinner. The guy in Pa uses it for steelhead pretty soon. They use 6 lb test. So can I use a 25 for the first guide and graduate down. Single foot probably alconite. My thought that a 30 would be too big. Thanks,Bill
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Josh, if you google baseball face stickers or decals or mlb face stickers you may find what you want.
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I will agree with Bill B. about masking tape. I'm either turning handles that have 1/2" or 9/16" hole. My mandrel is aluminum stock from home store. Will put enongth masking tape to keep piece from slipping. Use quite a bit for the larger hole. They come off pretty easy
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There have been occasions that the 6o deg live center insn't tight enough and the mandrel comes loose. Possible injury. Live center yes but a jacobs chuck live center 1/2" will solve your situation. Hope this helps.
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Depending on the size of glitter there may be some spots where the glitter is not lying flat. Another coat will smooth it out
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Col was half right. He is Archie McCarty and he lives in Elgin MN. web site-archiescustomfishing handles.com. He will help you out.
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Gary, I did an article in the Feb. edition of Rodmaker on wooden grips. Most were painted and had a fish theme the basics are the same. You can design what you want. Feel free to contact me with any questions. Bill
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Bert, you can check out some wood grips on my member page. can be made any size if wood is a prefence. Thanks Bill
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You might want to try this. Made matte finish on wodden grips by taking 4-000 steel wool and lightly rub finish. It will just take the luster off and not finish. Although it might be real difficult on small guides. Just a thought.
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This has been a crazy 4 months for me. Never expected Tom to ask me to do an article for Rodmaker. Even a cover shot. Timing was great . But this is to thanks everyone that stopped to look, talk and buy the split grips. Last thank you to Billy V. for your help. BTW he was my roommate
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COL, GREAT MEETING YOU AND THANKS FOR MAKING THE LONG TRIP. sOUNDS LIKE YOU ENJOYED YOURSELF. sTAY WELL DOWN UNDER. BILL
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To answer the best I can . These grips have a 1/2 " thru hole. Any ulrta light rod the hole diameter would be much smaller. The grip would also be smaller in diameter lessening the weight. I'm guessing a 2'' butt piece and a 3" grip made for an ultra light wouldn't weight more than the reel seat. But I understand your concern.
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Tha big blue fore grip is about 1 1/2 oz. The split grips for 3 pieces is about 1 1/2 oz. If you leave the small front piece off .close to an oz.. Will have some painted. Possibly college logos also some clear red ceder, sassafras and walnut. More split grips than large fore grip. Thanks everyone, Bill
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I agree that the hole should be larger. Use masking tape for arbors and epoxy. I think that if you use rubber or vinyl winding checks that might help the pinch point.
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Be there in a N.Y. minute. BTW I think the elephant had some extra adhesive. LMAO
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Right on Bill--5/16 hole will make syringe snug and no mess.
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I agree with Don. Set A date it is far enough in advance for people to make plans. I will make plans to attend. Bring some rods and have some home made split grips if people are interested. May have set for a door prize. Bill
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Forgot to add to my other post it helps if you can be watching tv. Makes the time go faster. Good luck
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This method will work well. I did it for years before buying a motor. Make sure that the 2 supports are level. After finish is applied start with the guides up or down, Time 5 minutes and rotate 180 ---do the same for 1 hour. the 2nd hour 10 min. Then leave it alone. Should have a nice finish. 2nd coat if needed
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I use eva for grips pulling shad for stripers. If a fish gets hung before you get to the rod I don't think there is an easy solution. That rod is locked in pretty good. The eva has held up well both in vertical holders and flat line. Make sure the eva is a dense cosistancy.
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Try to help with pic and words. Basically it is one thread infront of the other up and down the blank. This maks an arrow or chevron. Keep track of colors and # of threads going in the first direction. Now you start with the same first color etc and go in the opposite direction. the chevron now will point in oppsite direction. I have one on my member photo page. It is on page 3. Hope I didn't con
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Do you mean a reverse chevron?
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if the eva is one color youshould be ok. Give it enough epoxy of choice. If it has some elliptical or other design then as tom said ream it alittle more.
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The guy might be Archie McCarty. He lives outside Rochester,Mn. Makes great grips. His web site is archiescustomfishinghandles.com.. You have to call him he doesn't have a computor. 507 876 2441 home --cel 507 226 6908. Hope this helps. Bill
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Haven't painted handles but did a plug fore grip. Basically turn wood to shape. Now the harder part to drill a hole through to fit blank. I find that drilling 1/8" through middle then use Irwin bit with screw tip it will follow the original hole.. The rest prime with white then color of choice. can check out fore grip on photo page and member list..Wood used was red cedar.
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