I have seen the natural curve of the M-W stripper straightened out by "boat rash" type wear and tear, but have never had one fail. If the worse did happen, one would suspect that Am-Tack would sell you a replacement, but I can't prove it. In the real world, I think that if you did break the Microwave stripper, you have most likely broken the rod too.
Forum: rodboard

This is the second time this week I have read something about the vulnerability of the compound stripper guide used in the micro-wave guide set. Trust me...This isn't a concern! I have been using Micro-waves since American Tackle took the idea over. The Stripper guide is strong, I have had no problems at all, nor have my clients and friends. There is a heavy duty surf casting set of gui
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Not my business what guides you prefer, but I solved all these problems and more by switching to Micro-waves.
Forum: rodboard

Last spring, I bought a doughnut style florescent, swing arm lamp with a magnifying lens, at Harbor Freight. It was only about $25.00, so I was fairly skeptical about such a cheap unit standing up. However, the clamp is strong, the springs don't sag, there's a flap to keep dust off the lens and I find that it works very well.
Forum: rodboard

Like any tool, there is a learning curve. The primary function of this tool is to ease the aligning of guides. We can all do that without a tool. This just makes it easier, once you master the tool. No one has mentioned the built in level and tape measure. I use both of these features. Can you get along without it? Sure. You can also wind guides with a notched card board box... Does
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I have one. It works. It's true that the beam is easier to see in low light. Use your eye too. I do, but it's nice to use just to fine tune before the thread finish goes on. Or, to double check the straightest angle, before you epoxy the reel seat... No worries about rod length...It a laser, the beam stays narrow and goes on almost forever.
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You won't need a dozen guides. Just put on a few and do a load test. Adjust as needed.
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I like them a lot. Easy to use, one set-up suits all reel sizes.
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The new Mud Hole winder and dryer are bargains. They are both well thought out and inexpensive. Plus, if you decide to leave the hobby again, no doubt you can sell them easily.
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You will need razor blades, masking tape and a few common tools like a file and sand paper etc Unless you are handy with wood, and can make your own, you will need to buy a rod wrapper. Don't listen to people who tell you you can use the telephone book and a cardboard box! Experts can wind guides using nothing but their bare hands and holding the spool of thread in their fingers, but to start
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I built both the 6.5 and the 7 foot MHX ultra light spinning blanks to throw 1/16 and 1/8 spinners, but found them too soft. Someone here suggested I try the SJ720-MHX, a 6 foot spin-jig blank. It was shorter that I wanted, so I extended the blank to 6'6" by inserting an extension at the butt and putting the joint inside the reel seat. Works great!
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The reel seats in the kit are size 17. The tube is size 16. If the blank your using has an OD of more than 16mm you are out of luck.
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Well, you have heard from the rod building gurus. Let me share some observations from on the water. I have Loomis crankbait rods, which are slower, and spinnerbait /worm rods which are faster. So long as the bait being cast is within the approved range of the rod, there isn't much difference from one to the other. The difference is when you set the hook. The softer rod loads up more slowly,
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My name is Garry and I am a rod addict...I started with the idea of just replacing some damaged guides. In order to get a feel for the tools and techniques, I order a couple of inexpensive Pac-Bay complete kits, for practice. Once the practice rods and the repairs were finished, there were materials left over. What the heck? I might as well order parts for an Ultra Light rod and b
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I think standard space between a casting reel and the stripper is 23 to 27 inches. I would be looking for a distance the gives me a smooth flow from the two extremes of the level wind into the guide. After that, let your static test tell you where the other guides are needed.
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Condiment type cups are available in bulk, from stores like Smart and Final etc. However, I mix my finish in the depression found on the bottom of beer or soda cans. If there is a "stale date" stamped there, I wipe it off with alcohol, then rinse with water. The cans can be reused, and when you're through with them they can still go in the recycling.
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It seems that this year the hot set-ups in $100.00 blanks, boast special resins and fancy mandrel tapers. Perhaps MudHole is just clearing the old stock to make room for the next "new and improved," that will surely follow.
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I thought I knew Available. You might have known Available too. However, it now appears, that we will never really know Available.
Forum: rodboard

I did this exact same thing with my first spiral wrap. It was a 78 inch, med-heavy blank built from a Pac-Bay kit. When the rod was wrapped, I didn't epoxy the bumper guide, so that if I didn't like it, I could just cut it off. My bumpers have always been double foot guides, but a single foot with a lock wrap might do...
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Adam Lancia Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it! > I think there is only the stripper guide on the > butt end so am I best to rotate the top end and > see where the line crosses the blank then just add > a #8 guide there...? Should I rough up the > existing finish on the rod to ensure the resin
Forum: rodboard

Don't over think it! Just add a guide at 90 degrees to the stripper/butt guide, at the point where the line crosses the blank. This will be roughly halfway between the two guides you already have, but the line will show you where. Turn the tip section 180 and you are good to go. If you want to try it without adding an extra guide, just as a test, you can just turn the tip 180 and go fishi
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Thanks Tom. That was what I wanted to know. Garry
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After the Custom Rod Expo there was a lot of talk about how many folks were seen walking around with colorful Rodgeek blanks. By now many of those blanks must be in service. What are your opinions after having built on them?
Forum: rodboard

I would suggest not get too fancy. I've had good success casting Husky Jerk's for pike using rods built with the so-called "simple" layout. My stripper is off set one or two degrees to cancel any tendency the line might have had to build up on the spiral side of the reel. Basically what you might call a minus 1, 90, 180 degree arrangement. My spiral goes to the crank side, so the
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If not all of the guides are on the new rod, take a piece of scrap rod, or an old piece of blank and lock it in the chuck. Mask the tip of the new rod and insert it into the scrap blank. If they make a tight fit, mask up the good blank in the area of the junction. If not, make a tape arbor to give yourself a good fit. Apply your finish while your rod turns backwards. If the rod guides are on
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Here'a quick fix. Make an arbor of masking tape so that the oversize check fits. Have the arbor extend beyond the oversize winding check. Epoxy everything, then trim the excess tape off flush, using a razor blade. Once everything is dry, color the raw end of the tape with a black magic marker. Use a little epoxy or thread finish to seal the coloured tape. Add a thread trim band or two, or
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Mud Hole has a whole bunch of MHX two piece blanks. Look at the SJ842 or 843 or the SB 842 if you want a slightly softer rod. You can get a good deal on the other parts by buying it as a kit, or you can do it yourself. If you are in Southern Ontario E-mail me... Garry
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The 16 Aero is not huge, but is on the large side, compared to ordinary size 16 spinning seats. I stated earlier that I need a size 17VSS, but find the #16 Aero big enough.
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The VSS in size 16 is very small in diameter. It fine for some folks but I have big hands and prefer the #17. These seats are very nice looking, but can be a little tricky to install. The seat is cheap enough, but the dedicated cork pushes the cost up. If you have some spare cork, you can cut and paste to build whatever grip you want. The Aero is easy to install. The grip is very comforta
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As Joe pointed out, "A single reduction train layout that covers a much broader range of reel sizes and line types and diameters. " This is the key for me, you don't have to dedicate one reel to the micro wave rod. You can be seeking Crappie today with a size 500 reel and Bass tomorrow with a size 2500 and you know that the rod will perform equally as well.
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