I would phone or e-mail the dealers for their prices. In the last couple of months, I have bought four Bushido's from Bingham. I think they are a lot of blank for the money.
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There was no offence was intended. Most of the problems I see on message boards could be solved with a Spell Checker and a moment taken to proof read what we have written. The fact is, many times when I would also like to know the answer to the question posed, I can't understand the answer! Missing words misspelled words and lack of punctuation are the curse of the internet. It is get
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What you asked for sounds like the Bushido SJ728-15 from American Tackle 7'2" for 8 to 15 line, 3/8 to 3/4 baits.
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Spell checking is good, proofreading is better.
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Finish problems on your first rod. What a surprise! GRIN. Here's my how to- Measure carefully using small syringes. I got mine from Bingham for a couple of dollars. I mix on the bottom of an empty beer can. The dimple is the perfect size for a set of guides or most decorative wraps. Michael's or any other craft store has cheap disposable plastic brushes, I buy a gross at a time and use
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Others pointed out that there are 6'8" - 6'10" choices out there. Personally I wouldn't bother trying to get max length, I'd just build a couple of 6'6" blanks. There are places where 2 or 3 inches might be a big deal, but a fishing rod isn't one of them. On the other hand, if you simply must have some exact length, go with a 6'6" and an extension or crop 2" off the bu
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Thanks for the positive feedback on my Wally Rod.. It's not really fair to ask one provider to compare their product with another. This how wars start! GRIN. Today, there can't be much to choose between the top end blanks from the well known names. They all claim to have the latest cloth and the super nano- epoxy and they roll their blanks under 16 tonnes of pressure. USA made blank
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I just built the Immortal 6'2" walleye rod. Very nice blank. Used a Fuji VSS 16 handle, and Microwave guides.
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Recently I received the new Anglers Workshop catalog. They carry blanks from a large number of rod companies and all the specs are listed. The catalog is available online. You can compare all the most popular brands on one site from the comfort of your computer.
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If it's inside the blank, why are we worried about it? Out of sight - Out of mind. If it must come out I think you either have to force a long wire, with a hook on the end, passed this wad of tape, and drag it out , or use something with a screw thread to dig into it and pull it like a wine cork. Perhaps an extra long patio deck screw?
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All the lathes I have seen turn counter clockwise, to bring the work to the chisel. Every rod winder I have seen turns clockwise. This makes sense for winding thread onto a blank. However, I see this as backward for use as a lathe. Some folks suggest twisting the drive belt into a figure 8. Others will have you turn the winder end-for-end. You might be able to just move our workstation t
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The problems with turning handles on a rod winder are first it turns the wrong way for a lathe and second you have no tool rest. Sanding out high spots is hard to do without a rest of some sort. If you can overcome these issues, you're aces. Something to know is that epoxy is a @#$%& to sand. It doesn't sand as fast as cork, it plugs up your paper, and it melts. In this case, I would pr
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I saw an article or video where someone replaced a damaged cork ring. After cutting out the damaged area a new ring was sized then cut on one si.de The new ring was placed in hot water until it could be stretched over the blank and epoxied into place. My thought is you can do the same. Find the loosest area, remove one ring, inject epoxy, then replace with a new fitted cork ring. Wrap the p
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Roger: You can see it on the Vimeo Video. There is also a link on the opening page of the video to another video with a full demo of the Triangle Chuck.
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Are we sure our leg isn't being pulled? I guess we're too politically correct to suggest turning the blank around and using the big end as the butt...Too bad, that just might have worked.
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Try searching Olive Branch. I think that is what you're looking for.
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Get Bit will make you a label for about $5.00. I'm sure there are others who do the same, but I have only dealt with Get Bit. Last year I bought a straight pen with a set of nibs at Michael's. They also sold me some nice gold ink/paint. I am no draftsman, and my hands are a bit shaky, but it didn't take too much practice for me to gain enough confidence to write out a dedication.
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I just installed one of those fancy CRB handle kits from Mud Hole on a client's rod. It also uses a #17 Fuji seat with the KDPS foregrip-nut & hood. Two observations. 1: I didn't have to cut the threads or the rotating part to get a nice compact and clean looking package. The KDPS uses a two inch foregrip. In size 17, the whole unit is only about 3 inches long. If that's too long fo
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Because of the way they are held, my casting rod handles are generally a bit shorter than my spinning handles. In the end, length will depend on what you will do with the rod. As a rule of thumb, 12 inches is very long, IMO, and eight is quite short for me. However on a rod for Jerk baits I like a shorter handle so that it doesn't bang into my forearm all the time. I have big hands and lo
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I have used both styles and have a couple of VSS in stock now. The IPS is the older design and has a larger diameter. I have big hands and find the #16 IPS comfortable, but I need a #17 VSS. The VSS has more ridges molded in to give the epoxy a better grip. It is my opinion that the cork and EVA handle pieces for the VSS fit better. Therefore, I would use the VSS if everything else were
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I recall seeing an article where the Author was using plastic poker chips. I think it's in the Library.
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It's also better to drive a Ferrari and date a millionairess, nymphomaniac who owns a liquor store but sometimes you have to work with what you have. The question wasn't what's better, it was how to level a tapered rod using supports with a set height.
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The dryer seems to come with a support. Once the butt is in the chuck, I suspect you would move the support down the blank until you find the level. In the worst case, a few pennies would raise the low end...
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Micheal's, the other rod building supply store...Grin.
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Once upon a time I had some wavy finish troubles that I think were caused by a drying surface that wasn't level... The problem came on after I moved and it was only on the long wraps. This made me suspicious. When I checked with a level, I found the bench I was using was low at one end. Shimming things up smoothed out my finish.
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Just to recap... Let's say you will spiral to the right because the crank handles are on that side and you want to be able to lay the rod down with the bumper guide and the crank facing up. The level wind will travel a little slower as it pushes against line friction, when it travels to the left. This same line friction will pull on the level wind, so it goes a little faster when it travels to
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Being part of the 30% of the population living west of the Mississippi, and unable or unwilling to cross the continent at this time of year, I have been waiting with bated breath to find out what the new product, that was going to solve a decades-old rod building problem turned out to be... So Expo attendees... What is it? Where is it ? Who has it? When can I see pictures? Why do I need i
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According to the latest catalog, there is now a base plate and there will soon be a drive motor. There are also other things like tool trays, all interchangeable and fully compatible. In the past, I have packed my Alp's lathe and moved it, every six months, when I do the Snowbird thing. I'm looking at acquiring one of these winders to leave at my summer place. I don't do much rod work durin
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I would think that just wetting the thread with alcohol would let you see if it changes color.
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Try the low-temperature hot melt glue sticks which are available at craft stores. Flick your Bic, heat the foot, warm the glue, wipe glue and foot together and apply foot to the blank. Don't over-do the amount of glue... I use an alligator clip to handle the guide, but it can be done by hand too.
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