I've never applied CP on decals. Havent had issues before. It was just these latest two batches of decals I received that had issue. Decals before them have been no problem.
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I've had decals recently repel finish and push the finish away leaving low spots. Happened on 2 decals. A 2nd coat cleared up the issue one of them but the other was over a long area and made my finish unlevel. Given I apply finish the same way every time I apply finish I am certain it was something in the ink of the decal or on the decal itself.
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Billy, Did you try to scuff, scratch of dent the paint at all? If so, any luck?
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Butt. .3" so its probably a little less than that 6.5" up, where the 3.5" EVA portion of the grip went, it was bookend with cork - EVA Grip .5" I ended up going the arbor route. Thanks for the feedback fellas! Joe and Michael, those are really nice builds. Michael, gotta be nice to have your work highlighted like that.
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Thank you Bill. Much appreciated. Have a good day guys!
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Thanks guys. Interesting with the thread/cord Tom. You've done that with success before? I'm guessing I can use standard rodbond for the arbor/eva connection if I go that route? You guys graphite arbor eva before?
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Hi Bill, Thanks for the response. Unfortunately I have to use a certain color EVA from a previous grip I did that the guy liked. Have you put EVA on graphite arbors with success? Glues good? Would contact cement be the better application glue for that?
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Hey Fellas, Just wondering how some of you address the situation of having a super thin diameter rod and only being able to find a grip that is maybe twice the I.D as the blank O.D? Tape arbors? Regular arbors? I'm building an UL trout rod and have to use some EVA that has a much wider I.D than the blank O.D. First reaction is tape arbors but wondering if there is anything out there lig
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Hi Cory, I use fingertip pressure to start and as I roll the blank forward it travels up my finger until enough wraps have been applied to hold securely. You may find it easier to just apply tape as mentioned until you get the hang of it.
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > In the Simple Spiral, there is no side pressure on > any guide. The Bumper guide is pushed directly > into the blank, provided you set it up properly. > > ................ This is exactly how mine setup. Both the 2nd and 3rd guide, the line pulls down into the frame. I place my butt guide d
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Thanks Terry. You got me looking at the St. Croix blanks and I found one that fits the bill much better than what I was going to go with. preciate it!
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Hi Guys, Dont build a lot of light spinning rods so was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for a good 2 piece 7 foot trout blank. Most likely some bait n soak as well as light jigs with powerworms. Thanks for your time!
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Hi Dan, I've found the best bet is making those two application separate - for example. When I'm bomb casting 1.5oz hammer heads with MC swimbaits I want a nice 7'11-8' swimbait blank that has that parabolic action your talking about. But still has the backbone to bring in big lingcod or kelp bass. However, when I'm plunkin the kelp I want something along the lines of a punching rod t
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Eric, I use the 18. Will you be applying finish on this dryer as well? The unit itself is built well. The V supports are sturdy and feel planted on a table top. There is a felt clip V (where blank touches) that detaches from the support making the stand easy to clean. Motor life is anyones guess but I leave this one on overnight often and its always turning the next morning and the motor i
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I tried a few. No luck, thought maybe a builder here would know. Spencer, I'll look into em. Searching for those exact guides though... Thanks guys!
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Any of the vendors out there have the following? ALPS TFB-PG - TRI Fighting Butt - Pale Gold ALT-PG - ALT Reel Seat - Pale Gold BLXNGG - Black Frame, Gold Ring Guide
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Im not too concerned about the no response. I sent the initial email back on the 30th of Dec. If a DVD has been sent it hasnt arrived as of the 16th/Jan nor was I told about it going out - fyi. My email was just like my post here. I know you guys are busy. No worries at all. Jon, thanks for the offer!
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So many great tips and suggestions. Really appreciative of you guys taking the time to post which no doubt is 100% to benefit the kids. Thank you!
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Very much appreciate the feedback. I was reluctant to post about it but sure glad I did. Some things I definitely didnt consider..... Told them about the "oldschool" way of wrapping with a box etc. They havent made a decision on it yet. I'd love it if a parent could kick out a bunch of hand wrappers for them. That would be a lot cooler than what I had in mind plus keep costs down, w
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Already contacted them. No response. Looking for suggestions on the course itself, do's and dont's. Have you done one? The materials will get worked out.
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Hi fellas! Most likely I'll be doing a beginners rod building course for 20-30 boy scout members in the next month or so. What started out as me building a rod in front of them turned into 20-30 eager kids wanting to build their own. They have a fishing trip planned later in the year so I think that made them want to make their own. There will be 2-3 instructional meetings hosted by myself
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I think he may be talking about exposed blank between wraps. The O.D is different in the spot with no thread than that with thread. I dont do long decorative wraps so dont know the best way to avoid it. In the few I've done whatever was there got straightened out around the 3rd coat. Hopefully someone with more experience can dial you in.
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The line pulls away on your spiraling guides?
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I have had a hardloy tip groove from braided line. Primarily used in the salt. You can hear it. This happened after 3-4 years of continuous braid usage. None of the guides on the rod were affected but I dont have the rod anymore to see if it was just a matter of time. I put Alconites on anything that might see braid just because they are not that much more than Hardloys. But I dont think
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In general, I like fuji alconites. In general, I like graphite reel seats. In general, I like to space my guides to give equal distribution of load when under tension.
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Atta boy Col. Well done dude!!
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Bill, Very true. I'm jumping ahead a bit and talking about rod lengths/actions and guide sizes I already like paired up. Discovery is important though and to that I understand the point your making.
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Tom, Most of the rods I build have 7 or 8 runners all the same size. Based on what your saying, this may be the reason for good casting results, and the fact the line looks good under load while helping, may not be the motivating factor? Would make sense. I get good casting results from pitching weightless senkos to bombing swimbaits and all of the rods share that runner guide setup. With
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Hi guys, Just wanted to think aloud a minute and share something I've come across in my small time building rods. I've noticed when I get good line path while static testing, both under load and at rest that those rods tend to cast very well too. I've purposely skipped test casting a couple rods just to put it the test and the few I did cast very well. While it only takes 20-30 minute
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I do a lot of spiral wraps and like to put an underwrap on the spiraling double foots since I usually follow them with smaller fly runners and dont mess around detailing those. In the end do whats best/easiest for you but I like to wrap the complete under and then, without CP or finish, wrap the guide on top. If you follow your underwrap thread with a packing tool as you wind it on, then
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