Try this method, 1. Take a piece of paper and wrap it around the cork 2. align the paper (factory edge) where you want to make the cut, the paper should make a "perfect" line around the cork. 3. tape the paper in place. 4. Mark the line around the paper's edge. (I use a pencil) 5. Remove paper and inspect your line. 6. Cut. I have a "cork slicing jig" as one poster had men
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Steve, I suggest getting a dryer. If price is a concern, then build one. There are many pictures of home-made equipment in the photos section. --jerome
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A late thank you from me as well. Had a great time and really enjoyed Mr. Gary's unique way of explaining things. He really has a way of simplifying things so everyone can understand. Thanks again.
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So water has no affect on epoxy?
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Garey, I'm Probably newer at this than you, but I live in the humidity of Mobile, AL and I find I have much more success with a dehumidifier on in "the shop." Its a larger unit and a very small area I know its working when I can feel my eyeballs being sucked dry. Just kidding but the shop is actually a shed that has been repurposed. It is insulated and has an AC and heat. Dimensions are
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So let me get this straight... I can use the rayon according to at least one response, but at least one responder wouldn't recommend using it. I should however test it out before use, both with and without CP. I can lighten the shade of the finished product by painting it white. OK I think this is what I will do, 1. Wrap a Blank with the rayon madeira then with the poly robison anton. Coat half o
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I have a client who wants an X-Camo Rod from the Mudhole. He has requested Hunters Orange (Blaze Orange) for the guide wraps. I ordered what I thought was blaze orange. Upon receipt of the thread I have discovered it NOT to be what I wanted. More color issues. (see earlier post) Close but not it. I decided to go to an embroidery shop and see what my options were locally and also get a feel for th
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just bought this heading out in search of the rod.
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I am a licensed Captain and must take a test every 5 years to insure I am not color blind. With this being said, I have never worried about this test until now. During my new venture into rod building it would seem that I can no longer differentiate between the colors. I think this may also (or more accurately) have something to do with the fact that for over thirty years, I have been able to op
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Have you considered building your own? I built one from 3/4" MDF and It works great. I'll send you pictures if you like.
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What's the web site or name of the printer?
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OK. I understand now. I also understand why the "spineless rod" would be the more desirable of the two. So with this newfound knowledge, at least 2 more questions are born. 1. how do you find the straightest side of a blank and, 2. Given the fact that we do not work off a single axis while actually using the rod, is finding the "straightest" side really that important?
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Still, with that being said, when you spine the rod and place the eyes you are indeed using the stiffer side of the rod to your "advantage." Seems to me if you give up the spine you give up the advantage.
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Absolutey understand the extension method. That would be the "cheater bar" method I eluded to in the initial question but let's get back to this "railroad track" system. Can someone tell/show me via pictures how I can create this jewel? I like it.
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Oh, I am healed. Just like Humpty Dumpty!! Thanks for the input. I did look at the pics before asking but its very hard to actually find what you are looking for some people mis-label or don't label at all. Just got frustrated after searching for a bit.
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Thats what I had in mind but just wanted to make sure it would not be to hard to push. I have never used one and have no idea how much pressure must be applied to get this thing moving. So, I guess what you are saying is that you don't see it being a problem? As far as mounting it vertically and it not being overly hard to control due to too much force having to be applied. I just assumed that so
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I was injured in an automobile accident and do not have full range of motion (less than 10%) in my right foot. (plates, pins, screws, and a partial fusion. On X-Ray it looks like a hardware store...nice huh?) Also, during the same accident, my left femur was shattered (more plates, pins, screws, etc. and more hardware store pictures.) I still do pretty much anything I want, within reason, I just
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I am very new to all of this and learning as much as possible but I have found with this, my latest hobby/obsession, the more questions I have answered the more questions I have. So here we go, If a rod wants to come to rest on its "spine" when "tested", then the rod actually is "stiffer" on this side, due to the nature of the manufacturing process. This would mean t
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Found it here, Don't know if this helps. []
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I am not really sure how far you want to go with this but I can Email you some pics of a "drill lathe" I made that works great for what I do.
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