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Results 1 - 30 of 291
28 days ago
Drew Pollock
There is little difference, in the end, between finishes. My guess is, it's all the same chemistry. My go to finish is ThreadMaster Lite. I also like FlexCoat light. I've used ProCoat regular and it's fine too. They all seem to hold up well and I've kind of standardized on one that works well for me and doesn't hold any air bubbles when cured. I only really make fly rods though, so keep tha
Forum: rodboard
5 weeks ago
Drew Pollock
I honestly can't see fixing that. Just get a new rod. Any fix will not be lasting and satisfactory.
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Drew Pollock
I've built several of the 8 weight Quickline blanks. Overall, it's a very decent blank, well priced, no issues. I would use Fuji K series and I'd recommend size 16 and then 12 before dropping to your running guides. If you're surf fishing, all your guides should be titanium to avoid rust issues. The REC snake guides are great. I use them on every rod I make. The tip top is your call b
Forum: rodboard
8 weeks ago
Drew Pollock
I really liked that long, long reamer with a better taper than most reamer sets you can buy. I like all the videos you guys put up. Very helpful.
Forum: rodboard
8 weeks ago
Drew Pollock
I have used the Mudhole set and an set of stainless spatulas I got at a hobby store for basically every rod I've made. There are no downsides that I can see, and I've never (knock on wood) had a bubble in the final finish. Other than a clean up after applying finish there is no extra work, and the brushes for me, are more trouble than they are worth. But everybody, gets to their own comfort sp
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Drew Pollock
Agree. It's not that hard. Build 1, then you know. Build 10 and you're good at it. Build 100 and you're a professional. But seriously, it isn't difficult. I'm between 10 and 100 for what it's worth. You don't need a "school"
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Drew Pollock
ABS plastic pipe is the stuff to use. It's lighter than PVC and very strong and tough. Most of my rod cases are ABS and the few that are not are thin wall PVC which use the same fittings. Thin wall PVC works well too. I've even recently put travel rods in PVC down spout which works great. (Just back from a trip to AK with travel rods in downspout! No issues) Fly rods are easy because
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Drew Pollock
Another Dremel vote here.
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Drew Pollock
Having built a bunch of fly rod blanks into travel spin rods, it can for sure be done. Despite it being an 8 wt, it will make a surprisingly soft and slow spinning rod. Definitely replace the guides with ceramic ring style. I'd strip the rod completely and start over with the spacing that is right for the rod. It can be pretty hard to get the handle off though, so keep that in mind. But if
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Drew Pollock
This is normal with a factory rod. I'd strip it and re-wrap. Tomorrow. Fenwick used a lot of standard colors so should be easy to match, but even if not, just get close and no one will notice. You could strip and re-wrap in 30 minutes, then it's just epoxy time. It's just a fishing rod and even if the color was completely wrong, it's still going to catch a fish just fine. But broken epoxy m
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Drew Pollock
First of all, if this is just your second rod, you did great. It's all together. It has a handle, a reel seat and guides. Go fish it before you do anything dumb like removing and rearranging the spacing. I often find I like 1 more guide than the recommended spacing, but the factory recommendation is a good place to start. Regarding finish, while no expert, the thing that improved mine the
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Drew Pollock
Another vote for 2 coats of thin epoxy. My favorite is Threadmaster lite. But Prokote is good, FlexCoat lite is good. All work perfectly well. I probably built 10 rods that were under $100 per blank prior to building several St Croix SC V fly rods that are my primary rods that I fish. I even built some close-out blanks from Utmost that were like $30 and they turned into fine rods. A sou
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Drew Pollock
I made my own wrapper years ago, but it's similar in function to the one from Mudhole. Price looks good. You don't need an epoxy mixer, at least I don't, and never have problems. Add to your list a pack of single edge razor blades. Don't forget reamers for the grip. They seem expensive at first, but make an otherwise difficult job easier. I used the slow speed dryer for a long time
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Drew Pollock
I agree that a kit would be a really good place to start. Mudhole and Get Bit have some kits in the $60 - $100 range that look perfect for you. If you want to spend less, you might have to piece it together from closeouts. Just remember, your 5th rod will be much nicer than your 1st, so don't "over invest" in your first one. I made that mistake, and a year later went back and stri
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Drew Pollock
What kind of rod? Unless it's a fly rod, I think the Fuji KTAG guides are hard to beat as running guides. Heck, I even use the titanium version on fly rods. If it's a spinning rod, I use the KWAG for the reduction guides, and again the titanium version if I really want light. The "A" stands for Alconite, which is Fuji speak for a high quality aluminum oxide ceramic ring, which
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Drew Pollock
My experience on the Kenai fishing for Sockeye, suggests it is pretty hard on your gear, and broken rods are very common. So if you are building for money and you would have to do your own warranty work, I would factor that in. It's different if you just build a rod for a friend for the cost of parts. But a $500 budget all in, doesn't sound like there would be much left for the builder. You
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Drew Pollock
I know them quite well and have 2 currently. Both 7/8s. They are excellent and more than that they stand up to significant abuse. They were made for a while in the 90s and early 2000s and were everyone's favorite inexpensive but good fly reel (about $200 or so). Mid 2000's they stopped making them and the reels, name and tooling were bought by a concern in Chicago and production was restarted
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Drew Pollock
I've been kind of impressed with the Rod Geeks blanks I've purchased. All 2 of them. But it's pretty quick to get a custom colored blank exactly as specified. And to get a custom painted blank, from Mexico in less than 10 days is pretty impressive. And the paint is exactly like St Croix painted blanks. Great colors, well done, etc. I really like their 4 piece travel blanks. No one else d
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Drew Pollock
Honestly, the Pfeuger reels are ok but long term junk throwaways. Okuma are also OK. Both work ok for a time. So if you are not sure that fly fishing an 8wt is your future, these will work. If your 8wt fly fishing is a longer term thing, you'll want a better reel. The Galvan Torque is a GREAT reel. Backed up with GREAT service. Upper end Lamsons are good, Bauers are really good, Lots of
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Drew Pollock
With most decals, the most important thing, is that there is a layer of epoxy UNDER it. It's an extra step, but then there is no difference in the refractive index on the material associated with the decal. That helps to hide the edges of the decal.
Forum: rodboard
6 months ago
Drew Pollock
The drywall tape recommendation is a good one. It's more permanent than masking tape. But basically anything that shims it with epoxy will work. I really like the fiberglass open mesh of the drywall tape.
Forum: rodboard
7 months ago
Drew Pollock
Considering that one of those glue sticks lasts hundreds of rods, isn't it nice to support a real rod building company like Flex Coat? The cost per rod is trivial. It is a very good way to position guides on a rod blank. Just my opinion, of course.
Forum: rodboard
7 months ago
Drew Pollock
Double post.
Forum: rodboard
7 months ago
Drew Pollock
So, a "travel rod" means something different, to every fisherman who travels. It may mean a 2 piece rod, a 3 piece rod, or a 4 piece rod. For me, as short as possible when broken down is good. So a 4 piece 9 foot fly rod is good. A 4 piece 7 foot spinning rod is also good from a traveling perspective. It is rare to find true travel rod blanks. So you need to consider your real
Forum: rodboard
8 months ago
Drew Pollock
MHX = Very good rod blanks with lots of selection and sizes. Good price too. Good warranty. My favorite blanks are St Croix. Really excellent blanks, comprehensive selection, made in USA. A bit more expensive. Recently built and liked a Rodgeeks blank. Made in Mexico at St Croix's factory. I'll be building more of these. Just another choice for you. But graphite is fickle stuff
Forum: rodboard
9 months ago
Drew Pollock
If it's your first rod, no one expects it to be perfect. Just put some epoxy in the void and forget about it. No one is likely to ever notice. And it won't effect the rod at all. The next one you make will be better and the next one after that. I made my first rod about 7 years ago and it isn't perfect. But I still fish with it every year. Caught many salmon on it last fall and it isn't pe
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
Drew Pollock
I've built several fly rods with ceramic guides, mostly with the Fuji TKTAG running guides. They work very well, look unique and just plain work great. They have not been fragile as some have stated. You notice the smoothness of the guides only with a fish running, otherwise, you can't tell any difference from snake guides. But...they are quite expensive, especially if you want titanium fra
Forum: rodboard
1 year ago
Drew Pollock
Greetings to all. I've been away from building rods for 4-5 years. But I've been fishing the rods I built (a lot) and have accumulated enough breakage to get the rod building stuff back out and get going again. My rod building equipment has been in the attic, and I got it out this week. I have rods on the dryer as we speak. First, let me say thank you to St Croix, Pacific Bay and Batson.
Forum: rodboard
5 years ago
Drew Pollock
On a 5 wt I'd use single foots and of the single foots, the REC are the best. Keep it light and lively. Follow the Batson recipe but not the sizing guide. I'd use a 12/10 stripping guides, and all #2 running guides. Tip-top is your choice but the REC ones are light and a solid choice. Ceramic guides are not a good choice on a light fly rod in my opinion. I actually don't like them that much
Forum: rodboard
5 years ago
Drew Pollock
Bruce Tomaselli Wrote: > Hi DrewYou would use 11 guides and a tip top > instead of 10 guides and a tip top? > Bruce Yep-I like 11 on a 9 foot 8wt. I know it isn't standard, but the line flows better and doesn't sag between guides. I'm almost always fishing with a 24 foot sink tip, and 11 guides vs 10 just works better for me. On a 9ft 5wt, I'd use the more standard 10 guides
Forum: rodboard
Pages: 12345...LastNext
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