Recoils make some noise...Hopkins and Holloway are the factory guides, both snakes and ceramics. I admit, I am a traditionalist and prefer snakes to ceramics on a flyrod, but then I also prefer bamboo to carbon!
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H&H it is...100% sure.
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Just make sure you clamp everything very well; it expands as it dries and can have a tendency to open up joints as it expands.
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Other than old style Metalist reels, nearly all reputable fly reels use a standard reel foot dimension, with the possible exception of some varience in length of the foot. If, for example you compare a Teton #6 to a Teton #8, there is no difference, but the Teton foot IS slightly longer than an older English made Orvis CFO, but is EXACTLY the same length as a modern Hardy that I have. Just check
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Can't go wrong with an aluminum uplocking Struble with a fighting butt, shouldn't have to pay more than $40 for one. Pac Bay also make good ones for less money.
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6 FOOT rod for a 10 weight? That's not what i consider a fly rod. Has anybody on here cast anything even close? I have cast a 71/2ft #8, but that is no where close to a 6ft #10.
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You can impregnate woods and I assume burl corks by putting them in an acrylic solution (plexiglas chips "melted" in acetone) and drawing a vaccum on them. Many bamboo makers who also make reelseats and use this technique to stabilize the wood inserts.
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Unless he has a specific reason why he says he wants a moderate action, the med-fast blank would be a more comfortable (and versital) rod to cast and fish.
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Call 'em, always worked for me.
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I fit each ring to the black, glue it up, and turn the grip on the rod....perfect fit everytime. Didn't know it was old school.
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I have never played with spiral wrapping; is the first guide turned around backwards?
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R. L Garcia wrote one specifically about fly rods, as did Skip Morris; both books are well respected in the fly rod building world.
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Texas Caddis anyone?
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A slip ring reel seat is just that...slip rings. A Tenn. handle has no rings, the intention is to just tape the reel on with high grade electrical tape (Scotch Brand).
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IMHO, you will pay extra $$$ for a G. Loomis name on a blank. LOTS of great blanks out there that are better (lighter/more sensitive) for the same money spent to get the Loomis name on a blank. SCIIIs are great blanks and better than a GL2, probably better than a GL3 which is more money. Castaways and Batsons also come to mind. In my opinion (you asked) a GL2 is a very over-priced average rod tha
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The rods are less than 8 feet long for two reasons; to fit in most rod lockers, and to meet the BASS requirement of rods less than 8' long. Short fly rods are GREAT down here in the deep south when fishing around cypress trees at short distances; much easier to handle. TFO also has a 7.5' 8wt that was specifically designed for fishing in the mangroves (for the same reason) but unless they have ch
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Or, mask off the blank (to get a clean edge) and strip all the paint off just forward of the grasp, put a trim wrap over the junction between the painted blank and unfinished blank. Then when applying the thread finish, just finish the bare spot too as well as the trim bands. Looks cool and way custon. I did it once on a St Croix Legend Elite flyrod removing the matte forest green finish and insc
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I personally asked a company rep at this year's Bass Master Classic if blanks were available and he looked at me like I had two heads. It seems, at least at that time, that the orange nanofiber blanks were not being sold as blanks.
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My first shot at bones was done with a Sage 5wt. Great on really skinny, flat water. A fast 6 is fine for small bones in light winds. 8 wt is more of an all-arounder. IMO, a 9 or 10 is over kill and a bear to cast all day for bonefish; you certainly don't need that much flyline mass to cast a very aerodynamic, lightweight Charlie. A Seaducer, or a Deciever would be a chore on the 6 wt, but would
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I use full burl on ALL of my personal rods for the following reasons: I love the unique look, it is harder to the touch than real cork, as well as heavier. I like the weight because it gives my rods a lighter feel in the tip without having to epoxy slip sinkers inside the butt end of the blank; it changes the balence point of the rod. It is also very durable and does not need any filler, so the g
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Anglers Workshop has the Struble Rings you need.
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Actually, Jeremy, saltwater flyfishing great Del Brown, the acknowledged master of permit fishing with a fly, has been spray painting $500 factory flyrods with flat black paint for years to prevent flash and reflection off the rod from spooking shallow fish. If it is good enough for Del Brown, then there is probably some merit in it.
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True, but the brands listed also have prices 2, 3, or 4X as much. You get what you pay for, but the TFOs are great rods for the money and are just what the doctor ordered for many novice anglers.
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Legend Tournaments are built on SCIV blanks, Avids are SCIIIs.
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Usually a rod is first varnished immediately after completion of the blank to seal out any moisture as you have spent a great deal of time tempering and heat treating to bake out the moisture content in the cane, so the "raw" rod blank is usually sealed with a quick application of wipe-on varnish or tru-oil to prevent the re-absobsion of moisture. Once the rod is wrapped (or whipped in
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Wow, that is a hole nother question that begs the following response...freshwater or salt, what u fishing for, what baits, pound test of line, open water, timber, rivers, lakes????? I mean, I have 7' spinning rods (popping rods) for specs and redfish in the salt, 6' spinning rods for UL panfishing, casting rods that go from 7' crankbait rods, 7' light action topwater rods, worm rods, flipping
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Funny you say that Mike. I am left handed (well I write left handed) but I play golf right handed, played baseball right handed, but get this...I flycast left handed (very well thank you), but I cast spinning and baitcasting rods right handed. Most left handed people use both hands as it is a right handed world. For you right handed people who say who cares get over it, try a left handed pair od
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Soft Scrub works for me and doesn't remove any cork like sandpaper or scotchbrite pads might do.
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However, if it is a warranty replacement from St. Croix, you need to sent the entire rod back, guides and all components.
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Leave it be, that is a spigot ferrule, used on TFOs better rods. Don't do what I saw done once by a novice who didn't know any better and ruined a $300+ Winston Trout blank....he filed and sanded the male ends until they fit snug against the female ends! As Tom said, it it there to allow for wear, altough it would take YEARS of occasional use to wear the ferrule that much, unless you are in the b
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