I am redoing on of my falcon rods striped it down to the blank. I want to put a split grip for the handle, I was wonderign how you guys check to see what kinda reel seat and winding check t use. Also has ant one used burled cork instead of regular cork.

I use a digital caliper when sizing the parts I need for winding checks and such..remember you don't HAVE to use a winding check, you can build an epoxy ramp and use thread to give it the winding check look, also by doing this it gives you more options for colors to match your cross wraps..I use the burled cork a lot for trim and accents on my grips though I've never used it for an entire grip material...might look pretty cool.




Dave



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/02/2009 02:35PM by David Teague.

Burl as a total grip is kind of cool But can be over powering

Good Wraps Bob

I decided to just use it as and accent piece

I use full burl on ALL of my personal rods for the following reasons: I love the unique look, it is harder to the touch than real cork, as well as heavier. I like the weight because it gives my rods a lighter feel in the tip without having to epoxy slip sinkers inside the butt end of the blank; it changes the balence point of the rod. It is also very durable and does not need any filler, so the grip looks newer longer. If you put one coat of grip seal on it, it completely soaks into all the little fissures and makes the grip virtually indestructable.

Greetings Matthew and all,

I have re-guided many times with favorite spinning rods and
o clearly, I would never re-guide a rod unless the blank shows a requisite quality threshold (ie our time is too valuable for junk).
o most frequently, I have re-guided to shift from COF to NGC layouts; and thereby gain in qualities available with NGC.(eg better performance).
o its, also , a terrific opportunity to 'clear-out' any unwanted characteristics which I may have observed from 'regular use' after an original 'build'. Yes, indeed.
o About Handles: I have rarely done a change-out of handles.The few exceptions have been when the handle was actually 'THE' problem.
Or a related issue is when a rod can't be 'sight-fished' because its spine appears mis-aligned.
I saw a symptom: whereby, for example, lure placements were landing erratically.
I stripped that one 'bare', re-spined and re-guided it, and thereafter, this rod sight-fished quite well.

After that, I'll strive to have the line-path and the spine in the same vertical plane (akin to the geometrical idea of co-planar).
And lastly, would be when a handle is, way, too short or too long.

I hope this helps,
Bob Marie
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