Help... I have a customer that wants me to build him 3 rods with a 9' "hump" rear grip. I built him similar rods in the past with the same rear grip from St. Croix. Since then St. Croix stopped making this style cork grip, I was able to find one at CTS (I think they may have one more) but am in need of 2 more. Otherwise I will built them up myself, but it will add a considerable cos
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Tonight I finished one of my rods on the main level of the house (following the same procedure I always have) in a temperature controlled living area without any problems. Either something is in the air in my basement or the humidity is too high. Thanks for all of your help. Ken
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Thanks for all of the suggestions and advice. I will try to apply finish is another area (temperature controlled) of the house and report back on my results. I'm not positive but I cannot think of any cause of airborne silicone or other contaminats. Tom, I cleaned my blank with denatured alcohol, but just the effected area. Can you suggest another agent to use? Thanks, Ken
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Jim, I use regular plain nylon Gudebrod thread and don't apply CP. Can't think of a reason for air born silcone. I do this work in a finished but non-air conditioned area of my basement. Could it be too much mosture in the air? I'll eliminate the work area from the equation and take mix and test somewhere else in the house. Thanks to all for your respones. Ken
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Fred, Thanks for your input but no, my thread is stored in sealable container and I definetly have not used furniture polish in the area.
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It's been over a year (move to new house and finally have a building area set up) since I've finished any rods, recently I built up two and the last few nights I've been trying to apply finish. Two attempts on two different clean rods the first night, last night and now tonight. Each time I cleaned off the finish, rewrapped the guide and started over the next night. Since then I've tried three
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Tom, Sorry for contacting you on this website concerning your magazine but I did not notice a email address at Rodmaker's website. Anyway, I recently moved and did not contact anyone at the magazine concerning my address change. I've been out of the loop for a while concerning rod building (supplies all packed away until I finish my "fishing" office) due to too many little feet runn
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Billy, I guess I wasn't clear in my post, but I'm leaning towards the GUSA 7 Monster Mag.
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Tom, Thanks for the info. I'm just starting to make the transition from inshore to offshore or heavier tackle and I realize a lot of this is personal preference, however the little that I will be using this rod I will probably never get to where I'm totally dialed in on exactly what I like. So I'm looking for advise from experienced builders (and anglers) who can assist me in removing some
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Heading down to the Keys in March and May and would like to have a grouper rod to take to fish the reefs and wreaks. I am unexperience in deep water grouper fishing, although I have caught plenty of jew fish in Everglades and sort of have an idea of what these fish are capable of. I would like to hear exactly what you experienced grouper fishermen use for you personal sticks (blank, guides, but g
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Cliff, Thanks, I already subscrib. The last few May's I been towing my boat down (from NC) to fish the Everglades (renting houseboats), unfortunately when I called to reserve a house boat this year I learned that the lodge and boats would not be available for at least a year. So, we had a change of plans and decided to try the Keys. We plan on staying in the Marathon area and possibly head
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Thanks for the insite, one thing I failed to mention that now seems important concerning the length of the rod, is that I will be fishing from my personal boat. Therefore, maybe I should lean more towards the shorter end of the spectrum, say 6.5' to 7.5'. Thanks to all that has responded and keep um coming. Thanks, Ken
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Heading down to the Keys in March and May and would like to have a grouper rod to take to fish the reefs and wreaks. I am unexperience in deep water grouper fishing, although I have caught plenty of jew fish in Everglades and sort of have an idea of what these fish are capable of. I would like to hear exactly what you experienced grouper fishermen use for you personal sticks (blank, guides, bu
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I am building up two Seeker blanks (CLB704 and CLB706) with American tackle ti turbo guides spiral wrapped. The rods (handle on and guides taped on )are fairly light in hand for a live bait rod, I would like to keep it light as possible, therefore what is your take on just single wrapping the guides without an underwrap? Or do I need to dbl wrap with underwraps? The rods will be used for troll
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Thanks for all the great respones, I think he's going with the Avets. A SX for the 704 and a MX for the 706. Thanks again, Ken Saums
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Building up a Seeker CLB704 and CLB706 for a friend to use for spanish, king, and dolphin trolling as well as wreck fishing. He asked me to match up a reel for each rod to meet his needs. I've looked at some Newells 220's, Daiwa Saltist 30's as well as Shimano Charter Specials but feel these reels may be too big for these blanks, so I'm looking for recommendations from you all. Thanks in ad
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Thanks for all the replies. I took Mike Barkely's advice and glued the flex coat arbor inside the reel seat; I will ream it out carefully tomorrow.
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I'm building a hvy surf rod with fuji dlx size 24 reel seat. I purchased a set of flex coat arbors, but gap between the reel seat and the blank is too small to use the arbors effectively (too small of gap to ream the arbors to). So I feel like I have three options: tape arbors, thread arbors and dry wall tape arbors. My original thought was thread arbors since I have a lot of D size thread I
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