I'm building a hvy surf rod with fuji dlx size 24 reel seat. I purchased a set of flex coat arbors, but gap between the reel seat and the blank is too small to use the arbors effectively (too small of gap to ream the arbors to). So I feel like I have three options: tape arbors, thread arbors and dry wall tape arbors.
My original thought was thread arbors since I have a lot of D size thread I will probably never use. What is the proper technique with thread arbors, it looks like I will need atleast four layers of D size thread at the small OD end of the reel seat? Do I just layer the thread and use rod bond or use thread wrap finish ( and do I need to finish the thread inbetween every two thread wraps of so)?

Also, I've read a lot about the use of adhevsive backed dry wall tape, where can I purchase this and is it expensive?

Thanks, Ken Saums

The dry wall tape is available at Lowes or Home Depot or probably any good hardware store. $6 or $7 dollars buys enough to do a few hundred rods.

Are you SURE you can't ream that arbor to fit? 4 wraps of D thread? I've reamed arbors a bit thinner than that...

Putter
Williston, ND

Glue a Flex Coat arbor into the seat first and then ream it. You should be able to ream a Flex Coat arbor extremely thin once it is glued in place. The other alternatives (tape, thread) will work but, IMO, the Flex Coat arbor is better and much faster.

Mike

Ken Saums wrote: "Do I just layer the thread and use rod bond;
Or should I use thread wrap finish (and do I need to finish the thread in between every two thread wraps or so)?"

Ken - Whenever thread is used as an arbor / spacer under a reel seat, the thread does NOT need to be treated with any color preserver or thread finish. Your adhesive for mounting the reel seat will soak onto & into the thread and fuse the rod blank, and the thread and the reel seat together. The thread could be wound on in any way that leaves a good amount of the rod blank exposed, so that a good amount of the adhesive can hold directly to the (scuffed) rod blank. You could use the thread to make several rings or arbors every inch or so. Or wind it on like a screw, with a pitch of ~ 5 millimeters. As long as you scuff the rod blank and the inside of the reel seat, and use the arbors to center the reel seat and to help keep the epoxy adhesive in place while mounting the reel seat, then things should go as planned.

-Cliff Hall, Gainesville, FL +++

Ken,
When I have used thread wraps as arbors I wrap in an open spiral pattern along the entire length to provide even support of the seat. This gives the adhesive (Rod Bond for me) a thin layer with a lot of contact between the saturated thread and the seat. If the gap is thin enough I fill the entire length with rod bond. I have yet to try the flex coat arbors but when I get my lathe up and running precise drilling will be very easy and I plan to go that route. I have also used fiberglas tape (without adhesive backing) to great success. The job is a little messy (I tie the mesh to the blank and slather it with Rod Bond as I roll it on and then tie it in place. This works well for filling all size gaps but the Flexcoat arbors seem much easier to use with even more accurate results. Run a search on the paddle bits that can be used todrill the flex coat arbors. Tom K. recently mentioned using cheap bits fitted with center guides using the Flex Coat kit to attach the center guides.. Or you can buy the ready made Flex Coat bits made for the task. It seems like this is a real improvement for the job. I don't recall the largest size of Flex Coat arbors available but that is easy to find.
Best regards,
Dave

Thanks for all the replies. I took Mike Barkely's advice and glued the flex coat arbor inside the reel seat; I will ream it out carefully tomorrow.