A sudden "crook" can be cause for concern. I'd contact the manufacturer and ask their advice. .............
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Thread wrap epoxy is a "casting resin," not a paint. Contact cement will work fine for adhering cork and EVA. ................
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Still in progress. I have to keep stopping in order to publish a magazine. ............
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Due to the soft nature of EVA, it's hard to seal it with anything. The good news is that EVA cleans easily with soap and water, or in the worst of cases, a light sanding. ..................
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Probably need to email them as this forum has no active PM feature. .............
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People typically don't comment when things go right - it's expected. They only blow up when things go wrong. ......................
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The foam cores are very light yet rigid and therefore ream easily. A tapered reamer, in the proper size, will do the trick in half a minute, or less. Do remember to blow out the reaming debris before test fitting. The foam bits can be sharp and will easily scratch a rod blank finish. .................
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I get more positive comments about NFC than negative. I am not aware that they have swindled anyone out of money. The answer is simple - contact NFC and tell them what happened. From there you will either get new, sound blanks, or you have the option to get a refund or dispute the charge with your credit card company. ...............
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PermaGloss is a moisture curing urethane. The lower the humidity is, the longer it takes to cure. ..............
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I normally wait at least 3 full days as long as the humidity is above 50%. ................
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You need to allow the PG to fully cure before putting anything over it. The epoxy will bond to it, but not as long as the solvent in the PG is still dispersing. ...............
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Yes you can just weigh a fly line, but whatever means you have. You can then use the equation ELN = ERN as a starting place to match a line to a rod. But depending on your casting style and the distances you fish, you may find that some variation of that equation, i.e. ELN = ERN-1 or ELN = ERN+2, etc., works better for you. Do remember that the weight required to flex the rod/blank to the pres
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The link to the left in the sponsor column works fine. The database is access from the link at the top right of the main linked page. ..............
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For clarity, "A distance equal to 1/3rd the blank's total length." .............
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What Michael said is absolutely true. The CCS doesn't measure fly rod blanks, nor casting or spin blanks. It measures action, power and speed. Any blank that has those inherent properties can be used with the CCS. .............
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Check the RodMaker Magazine Youtube Channel for a good video process on finishing them. PermaGloss is very thin and cannot easily be used as a sealer or filler. So if your grips aren't smooth you'll need to sand them, or you can apply a coat of finish epoxy and then sand that down smooth (you may get into the carbon skin in places - don't worry, that's okay). Or maybe you don't want them s
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Even at 11.51 ERN the blank could be correct when labeled as an 8-weight. Each manufacturer has to decide just how much power his "8-weight" rod should have. I would agree that's getting up there and believe it would be hard to load at any distance with an 8-weight line, but that part is up to the manufacturer. It is also possible that the blank was mis-labeled or mis-bagged. ....
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Remember that it is possible for a blank to be damaged in shipping. Blanks get shipped sometimes twice or more before arriving to the eventual customer. The package you received may look fine, but the one your supplier received from the manufacturer may not have. Always give each new blank a critical eye and proper flex test prior to building on it. .................
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I agree with Tom. And make two comments: 1. Cork > is not soft. It does not deflect when gripped. > 2. Cork with fish slime on it is very slippery. > I think most any surface with fish slime on it > would be slippery. You don't realize just how soft cork is until you fish with a grip that
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No, the "proper" diameter, shape and size are not the least bit subjective. The data is there to prove how much force can be generated with the least amount of effort, over the longest duration. We're not talking about how something feels - we're talking about bio-mechanics and how to derive the most force from the least amount of effort over the longest period of time. Everything be
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Proper grip ergonomics is not entirely, if at all, subjective. The research that was used for the RodMaker article was taken from mounds of tests and data gathered in the late 1940's and early 1950's by the U.S. Military to determine the best shapes and surfaces for the bio-mechanics of the human hand and how it interfaces with various shapes and surfaces. You can get by with anything, but having
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The upcoming issue of RodMaker, Volume 22 #3, has an outstanding article by Ben on perhaps the simplest flocking method yet devised. Look for it towards the middle to end of June. ....................
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That's the added component, and it will also make EVA and cork grips slippery as well. Fish slime, is the #1 culprit. However, most fishermen will rinse and/or wipe their hands from such slime rather than have it smeared all over their grips and reels. Those that don't are apt to occasionally lose rods, regardless of the material the grip is made from. Even then, however, grip shape ultimately pl
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And there is a lot more to how "grippy" a handle or grip is than just the surface. How many people have ever wondered why beverage glasses are tapered from top (larger) to bottom (smaller)? And it has nothing to do with slipperiness. It does, however, play a large role in proper fishing rod handle and grip ergonomics. ..................
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I have found these grips, when coated with Permagloss, to be so tactile (for lack of a better word) that in order to shift your hand the last bit, you have to greatly relax your grip. No slipperiness whatsoever when wet. Those wanting to learn more about static friction coefficient experiments done on tool handles and materials, dry and wet, would do well to consult the RodMaker article on gr
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You won't get blisters but... you will experience hand cramping on your first few uses because you'll be applying the same grip pressure to these as you have your EVA and cork grips and quite simply - it's not required. These grips are so much more efficient that you can grip the rod just as securely with far less hand pressure. Once you get used to them, you'll find that far less effort is requi
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You may be thinking of Dr. Hanneman's suggestion that as a starting point, that you can use the formula ELN=ERN, at 30 feet of line past the tip. But he was careful not to state that a rod's ERN does dictate that a particular line weight should be used. He recognized that different fishermen have different casting strokes and fish at different distances, so ELN=ERN is only a place to start if you
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I wasn't aware that there was a calculated line weight for ERN. ............
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Resin is also generally a bit thicker than hardener. If you turn the bottles upside down and watch the bubble flip from one to end, does not do it quicker than the other, or are they the same? If the same, you almost surely have two of the same component parts. ...............
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