The plug helps prevent oval crushing of the open end which can happen if the sections are not fitted tightly. Ralph did a nice article on the how and why. It's a good idea to have something in the end. Doesn't have to be absolutely rigid but should be firm. ...............
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Gel epoxy, Cork, or EVA I’ll make good plugs for the open end of a male furrule. ……..
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Is this a water release decal or a peel and stick? .............
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The walls won't "blow out" unless you attempt to slide a too small diameter over something. Cork won't stretch like EVA so you need a more accommodating fit. Cutting the bore won't blow out the walls nor will reaming provided you work slowly and carefully. You'll get the hang of it pretty quick. .........
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They certainly can and do make the type decals you're asking about. Call and ask them. ................
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If the fly rod is at least 8 feet long, it is possible and usually correct, to land a fish without the line to leader knot coming inside of the tiptop. For quick carry from spot to spot, you can simply loop the leader around the back of the reel and back up to the stripping guide and hook the fly there. ...........
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Do a search on this forum for UV cured finishes. More pitfalls than advantages with this type finish for custom builders. Manufacturers that use it do so for its quick curing times, not for any performance or longevity advantages. ..........
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > " it would be very hard to get a "bad batch" as > hundreds of bottles of the product are bottled > from the same multi-gallon drums." Which would > logically mean that there would be hundreds if not > thousands of "bad batches" out there. Convenient > argume
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UV products, often branded in fly fishing for the exact purpose you suggest, are available and do work. ................
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Todd Jensen Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I had this happen with a defective product sent to > me. Not what you want to hear, but I would strip > everything and start over. Even if you wipe > everything down, the epoxy absorbed into the tread > will cause blemishes in the finish. I tried > wiping down with isopropyl and reapplying fin
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There you go - it would be very hard to get a "bad batch" as hundreds of bottles of the product are bottled from the same multi-gallon drums. A lot of people would be having similar issues. Flex Coat is the #1 seller of rod wrapping epoxy so there'd be an outpouring of customers having similar issues. Now here's something for you to try - put on a rubber glove and use a finger to wip
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Humidity won't affect set or cure time. Improper measuring or mix will. The only other thing that is possible is that you drew both parts from the same bottle. So start by looking at the level in the bottles. If they're uneven, you've found your problem. ...........
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What type and size line will you be using? You can very likely skip all those sizes - generally 3 different sizes will do the job as well or better than trying to use each size offered. The line path will dictate the sizes you should use. Possibly it'll be 30-20-10 and then as many additional 10's as needed. But you need to plot that line path to be sure. There is an article in the online libr
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We've done several articles on this in the magazine. A spade bit held in a lathe tailstock while the cork is spun in the chuck is a quick and easy way to do what you want. ...............
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You did "screw up" in at least one area - you have almost certainly voided your blank warranty. .............
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The only thing that was removed were a few paragraphs pertaining to the origins of the system, which are not necessary to use the system. Otherwise the original photos were reshot in color and the Rosetta Stone chart was expanded with the original Cents/ERN version that goes up to 600 cents. There was never any database, etc., on that site. A major rod manufacturer is considering using the CCS
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It was completed in mid-June. There are a couple additional articles that I plan to add at a later date. ...............
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If you move the reel forward (establish a longer rear grip) to achieve the desired balance you might as well have bought a shorter blank to begin with. The longer the rod the more useless becomes the exaggerated length of the rear grip, other than simply to achieve balance. ................
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The DPS style remains more ergonomically correct than any of the later models. ..........
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I prefer to simply build the rod as light as possible. I cannot see any advantage to adding unnecessary weight to a rod. ...........
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I can't really advise on the butt guide location without having the reel and blank in front of me. ............
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Many factory rods use a UV cured finish that sets extremely hard. These are also the ones that tend to crack and check within a very few years. Given that most rod manufacturers consider the life of a rod to be about 3 years, they don't see this as an issue. Flex Coat will cure hard enough and it'll last a lot longer than 3 years. ............
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With low frame, small ring guides, it is almost impossible to keep the line off the blank during heavy loads unless you use a great number of guides. Proper use of a rod precludes removing line with the reel while the rod is heavily flexed. You use the rod to pull the fish to you, and then lower the rod while recovering the line you gained. So having the line touch the blank lightly isn't an issu
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You only need two sizes - the butt guide and then the runners, which can all be the same size. How long is the rod you're building? Low frame, small ring guides will be difficult to space to keep the line absolutely off the blank, unless you use quite a few of them. Probably the length of rod in feet plus 4 more. Due to the very light weight of today's guides, this is necessarily too many. .
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Putting finish of any kind on the male ferrule will greatly affect the fit of the ferrule. Don't do it. I swipe on Permagloss with a saturated piece of cheesecloth. Do a search in the archives on using PG for this purpose and you will turn up multiple answers as to how users obtain good blank finishing results with it. Do keep in mind that altering the finish of a blank may void the manufac
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The warmer your epoxy is the easier it is to measure, mix and apply. Likewise, the warmer your epoxy is, the less pot life you will have. Manufacturers recommend using it at room temperature, which is generally understood to be about 72F. .............
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Flambeau used to offer a service that would screen print your name or logo on plastic fly boxes. There was a minimum order, of course, but if you're buying boxes anyway you'd eventually use them. .................
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The sacrificial thread is removed so not sure why you'd want to use mono and leave it in place. To get the most in terms of a pattern from a Tiger Wrap, you need to heavily and unevenly burnish the underwrap before making the top wrap. The more you disturb it, the more varied the pattern becomes. ...............
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How small? The thing is, our wrap finish epoxies do not have a large margin for error beyond that 1 to 1 (by volume) mix. If you were extremely careful there is no reason you couldn't mix .5 cc of each part and have the mix set and cure perfectly. So the issue is what happens if during the measuring or mixing process you're over by a single small drop on one part of the other? What happens if you
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I tend to use the Pac Bay minima type on rods under a 7-weight and Fuji Ti single foots from there and up. SIC tiptops on all of them. .....................
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