The Simple Spiral keeps the line traveling on a straighter path (just to one side of the blank) while some other systems take the line around the blank through a greater radius. On some strong pulling lures and with some wider baitcasting reels, this can cause line stacking to one side of the spool. I think several things have to conspire to make this happen, however, so I don't see this as any s
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Not sure what a spiral wrap has to do with line leveling. The idea is to eliminate the tendency of common guides-on-top rods to torque/twist when under load from a fish. Which they absolutely do. .......
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Bob Jordan Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > How and what do you guys think about acid wraps Spend 10 minutes or so with this - .........
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Daryl Ferguson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If you do a search, you’ll find quite a bit of > discussion on the topic. Personally, I have not > built one, but I find the concept interesting and > the purported benefits quite plausible. The benefits are not only plausible, they are provable. ...........
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Keep in mind that the knock-off RDA measurements are incorrect. AA and ERN (or IP) have defined constants and the instant you change one of them the measurements you obtain are not actual AA or ERN numbers. The RDA stole the terms but created its own support distance constant, making any AA or ERN figures it provides, immediately incorrect. ............
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You can use A for the underwrap. I would suggest at least two overwraps of D on the guides. And, I would epoxy each layer of D. Some will tell you to use three overwraps of D. While that might be overkill, on a rod that heavy it won't hurt anything. ............
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Fenwick ordered a large amount of special color brown thread from Gudebrod in the late 60's or early 70's. It became a mainstay in their rod production. Gudebrod sold the same color to consumers under the name of, what else.... Fenwick Brown. ..............
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I wouldn't use an underwrap. No need for additional weight on a light blank. Just make sure your guide feet are flat and free of burrs. .........
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The best rubber material I've found for this purpose is that used to make the punch ball balloons. No idea what it is, but it works very well. ............
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The line won't know the difference. However, if the ring is slightly angled towards the single leg, then the single leg should be towards the tiptop. .........
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If you use composite cork and are concerned about the weight, there is this to consider- .............
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The grade of cork is more about the clarity (free of pits and voids) than durability. And other than the RodMaker cork grade scale, all the others are purely subjective. There is no photography or percent clarity standard behind them. ........
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Using single foot guides on the upper section of the rod is fine, but make sure to use very low frame types such as what many builders use on fly rods. The lower the frame the more durable they're going to be. ..........
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There are no solvents in 2-part epoxies. They are 100% solids. You should be fine, but I've not seen one brand of epoxy offer a harder or smoother surface than another. You may have something else going on there. .........
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I typically give epoxy 3 full days cure time before I take a rod fishing. You can accelerate the cure time by putting the rod into a very warm area. A sunroom, car interior (if the car is in the sunlight) or similar. Higher temperatures will vastly speed the cure rate of the epoxy. ...........
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Moving the choke guide an inch here or there isn't likely to result in any real change. I would suggest trying a butt guide that is roughly 1/2 your spool diameter. If you can't make that work, and moving it up or back a inch or so doesn't help, then try a slightly larger guide in that position. .............
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It is a structural item, although not usually a terribly important one. Your plug is fine as is. Slipping down a mere millimeter isn't going to affect anything. ..............
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That would be the Cone of Flight System which I don't recommend. There is no stripping guide on a spinning rod, although I suspect you mean the butt guide. You have to begin control at that point. I would suggest a high frame guide with a ring diameter equal to roughly 1/2 the spool diameter. From there just use whatever guides give you a straight line path on out to the tiptop. You're likely
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Which system are you looking at? If the choke guide is located off the end of the rod, then the tiptop automatically becomes the choke guide. If you are using a very large diameter reel on a short rod, this is common. ............
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What you have there is fine. Sure - a drop of super glue or whatever won't hurt a thing. ........
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Just take a short piece of brass tubing and punch a plug that's just a tad larger in OD than the ID male end of your ferrule. Put a smidgeon of GOOP or similar on it and push it into the open end. Ralph O'Quinn used to advise just putting a dollop of RodBond in the end of the male ferrule. I like the EVA myself. ........
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Pack a length of 1x1 inside the tube or container, end to end. The rod should be attached to that. This keeps the rod from shifting in the tube and fracturing the tip area if the tube is slid along the ground and comes to a sudden stop in the transit process. This is actually more common than you might imagine. .............
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The plugs are only semi-rigid because the sections need to be able to slightly oval under load. This is why such plugs are cork, EVA or a gel epoxy, rather than anything such as plastic, etc. If the plug has simply moved down a bit, take a small drill bit and follow with a screw to pull it out. Then add a touch of adhesive and push it back it. ............
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Actually, it does provide a bit of structural integrity to the end of that section. An open tube is easier to deform/crush when it doesn't have something in the end such as the usual foam, cork or in some cases, a plug of gel epoxy. However, I've rarely seen one fail while it was assembled either with or without said plug. ...........
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There was a product offered by Trondak U-40 called "Ferrule Lube." It was remarkable stuff. A liquid teflon that set to a dry film that did not attract nor hold dirt, dust, etc. It did not change ferrule fit and was an excellent product but low sales doomed it back around 2005 or so. I think I have two bottles left. ................
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The nose oil trick was generally used on metal ferrules. Glass and carbon types are designed to be used dry. The issue with any sort of wax, paraffin, etc., is that it changes the fit of the ferrules and can cause them to split. In the RM article on ferrules some years back, we polled many rod manufacturers and at least half of them said that they had seen rods returned to them with split fer
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Integral carbon ferrules are designed for a clean, dry fit. Wax can change the fit by reducing clearances, although with a hard type wax that would be minimal. Make sure you are joining your ferrules with a "bayonet lock." Align them 90 degrees to each other and slid together until just lightly snug, then twist them into alignment with just a bit of additional snugness. Don't lea
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Michael Tarr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I’m curious to which system you used to find > this out. Besides that, any of those sizes would > work for 14lbs mono line. From what I gather the > choke guide would be a running guide not a > reduction guide. To me the XYTLG’s are reduction > style guide’s so the XPFLLG 7 would be my > cho
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Not sure what system you're looking at. Guide size should be correct - this means using the smallest guides that will do the job they are required to do, and no larger. You would also want the lowest frame guides you can find for running guides. ..............
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