You're right, I don't know everything. Not even half of everything. But I do know that if you put your fly rod stripping guide a 32 inches past the butt, it'll work on any fly rod, with any type line, for any type casting and for any fly fisherman. And it'll work well on all accounts. ..........
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If you're hooked to a fish, the line will be taut. No need to reach out for the line - it'll be where ever you reach up to grab it. But if the stripping guide is too close you can only grasp it out so far and thus will have to make more and shorter "strips" to get the fish in (if you're not fighting the fish off the reel). Put it at 32 inches beyond the rod butt and fish it. Give it
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The Forhan wrap isn't intended to increase shear strength of the thread wrap. It's there to prevent a single foot guide from being pulled out from under the wrap on the tip-most side. And it does. ........
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It is rare that fishing itself will ever pull out or shift a guide. It's pulling rods from rod lockers and boxes that tend to do that. Rich Forhan developed his unique locking wrap to stop that from happening, and it does. As far as adding weight - give it a hard look. You'd be hard pressed to realize any practical weight difference between using it or not. It's not bulkly, it's not long, it does
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Let me put it this way - Put it at 32 inches past the butt. Now go test cast it. Double haul it. Have a short armed person try it. Have a long armed person try. Try it on a 6' small stream trout rod and try it on a 10 saltwater fly rod. You are going to find that a stripping guide placed at 32 inches past the butt is about right on the money for any rod, any type cast and any person. It's foolpro
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Let me put it this way - do all the guide placement testing you want. Test cast it. Place it where you can easily reach it. Double haul test it. Set it for long arms and set it for short arms. Once you've done all that and whatever else you want to do, locate it. Then measure it. It'll be just about right at 32 inches past the butt. .............
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Stan, it's your rod. Put it where you want it. > Put it at 32 and try it out. If you find you > cannot reach far enough up the rod for your > preference, move it up a little and try it again. > I notice that the Batson recipe for the 9 wt > Eternity 2 puts it a few inches lower. I think &
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32 inches from the rear of what would otherwise be the rod butt. Do not measure from what would be the end of a removable fighting butt. ...........
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Put the butt guide 32 inches from the butt of the rod. Again, put the butt (stripping) guide 32 inches from the butt of the rod. One last time, put the guide 32 inches from the butt of the rod. ............
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Or let him buy a standard line with the weight concentrated in those first 30 feet, and have a knowledgeable custom rod builder build a rod that would cast that line at the distances the angler was planning to fish at. .............
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I see it all the time - a guy walks into a fly shop and asks to test cast a rod. He goes outside and starts making long casts - maybe 30 to 50 or more feet and exclaims what a great rod it is. He buys it, takes it to his favorite trout stream and makes 10 to 15 foot cats and then calls the dealer and tells him the rod is no good - won't load. And this is where a good custom builder can greatly
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One of the problems with fly tackle is that not 1 in 10 fly fishermen understand the relationship of line length to actual line weight. Most would assume that any "4-weight" rod should cast a 4-weight line equally whether the caster is holding 25 or 65 feet of line beyond the tip during the cast. Big difference in actual weight there. .............
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Absolutely. Depends on the designer and what any specific blank was designed for. Not all are intended for the same type fishing under the same type conditions. ...........
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No as I don't typically have issues with line stacking. For some it's a matter of the particular reel and/or lure being retrieved, but even then, in that case you'd offset the guide to the opposite side that you're spiraling to. .........
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In the Simple Spiral the first guide is not offset. If you wish to do so, just put the bumper guide where ever it needs to be to keep the line from rubbing the blank. There should be no load on it, other than straight back into the blank. ...........
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Only thing I would say is that you need to be mindful of how easily any logo can be added to a rod without it becoming hard to read, difficult to view, etc. You have to remember the medium it will be presented upon is round and depending on the type rods you build, may be very small in diameter. ..............
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I can't claim to have seen or used every Fuji guide family. But those I do use don't have any and I actually prefer them that way. I have used guides that were "pre-prepped" and the work was so poor that it required additional work on my part to rectify the shoddy job already done and get them to where the guides were, in my opinion, good to wrap. ............
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Used properly I think the end product is really about the same. It's the characters of application in the middle that are going to differ. .........
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Not sure if they have but can see no reason why it wouldn't work. You may have a great technique on your hands. ..............
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If you're talking about thread wrap finish, an epoxy, you'll find that different builders prefer different brands. In the end, they all do the same thing and all are "the best." Different brands simply possess slightly different use characteristics such as pot life, viscosity, etc. They all work equally well. You just have to find the one that tends to suit your application technique th
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That's very possible. ............
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The problem with lathe duplicators for cork and EVA is that these materials need to be sanded rather than cut to shape. This is why the cork grip companies resorted to stone sanding. ............
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Most had/have sanding templates made from abrasive stones that are pushed into the cork cylinder. The cork is reduced to the desired shape in a matter of seconds. .............
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All have been covered in-depth in RodMaker Magazine, including actual templates for all and when and why each excels at various tasks. .............
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The #16 seats are a bit shorter than the rest of the line in that style so what you'll have to watch out for is whether or not the seat will open far enough for you to get the reel foot in. I believe it will. ............
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That is not the product developed by Gene Bullard. That product was also made by Epoxy Coatings Company and Gene could no longer source it once EP Company went out of business. What is sold now is a different product, as is the Diamond II, which was also an EP Company product. I still have the email from Gene telling me he was going to have to source something else since EP Coatings had folded
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I wasn't offering an opinion on whether or not a size 16 reel seat is too small - I was stating that from a standpoint of the accepted ergonomics research and data, a size 16 seat may be too small, depending, of course, on the size of the user's hands. Nothing says that you have to use the size seat that decades of research has proven best for overall comfort, effort versus result, movement a
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Very little thought concerning proper ergonomics has gone into most products. The assumption that toothbrush and similar handles are based on sound ergonomic principles is in error - the only thought on such product handles is economics. Scalpels are held by the fingers, not grasped by the hand. An entirely different bio-mechanical activity. You can walk the aisles in most hardware stores and
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Shortly after WWII, the U.S. Air Force initiated a study into proper ergonomics for a variety of tool and control handles. This was a very exhaustive study, and one which I purchased the final results of, at no small expense, for the basis of the RodMaker series on grip and handle ergonomics. One thing they outlined, is that there is a proper diameter for handles, grips and control surfaces based
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Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am on board with not using a 16 seat due to poor > ergonomics, but one thing to keep in mind is that > with very light power rods and very small reels > the "loads" on the hands and the "feel" of the > system are different than for heavier duty rods. > I would not build a
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