The best way is to let the line path tell you what size guides to use. Otherwise you may have to adjust your spacing to less than desired for adequate stress distribution. At any rate, I don't think you need to use so many different sized guides. .........
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You can apply a second application for several days after the first without any additional surface prep. ..........
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Odd thing - the shrink wrap doesn't give up length by more than a tiny amount. All the loss occurs in the diameter. I doubt it shrinks in length more than perhaps 3% of the total. ...........
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Rod length is generally a matter of what you plan to do with the rod. If he's casting plugs in the surf, then an 8 footer is most likely going to be better than a 6 footer. If he's fishing small streams for mountain trout, then and 8 footer may be unwieldy. ...........
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Cork Specialties has joined us as a new sponsor. Their link is now active in the sponsor column to the left. ................
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AA readings are not meant to be interpreted as "fast" "moderate" etc., any more than length measurements are meant to indicate if a blank is "long" "short" etc. They are simply relative numbers. AA numbers are meant to replace terms like fast, medium and slow altogether. If you have a blank with an AA of 79, against another blank with an AA of 70, rest
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That should make a fairly stout bass rod. Good power in that length. The length combined with that power should also allow it to be used for various other fishing types. Fast action and good, quick recovery. Spinnerbaits, large crankbaits, heavy plastic worm fishing. ............
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Do you have an ERN number? ............
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It shouldn't be hard to split the wooden arbor stock from the end and just pull it off the bamboo. But I doubt the bamboo is inserted more than a couple inches anyway. ............
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There is no epoxy used with the urethane foam. It is it's own process - a two-part system. If you want to put cord over it, there is not necessarily any reason to put epoxy on the core, other than to hold the cord in place. Generally, however, I find that if you put on a very heavy, wet coat of the varnish, PG, etc., that you are using to protect the cord, it will tend to seep down and lock the c
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The CP will soak into the thread and seal the wraps. Do not wipe anything with DNA - that is simply asking for trouble. It's a rookie mistake. ...............
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If you keep your rod clean and perhaps add a coat of wax now and then, it's going to have about all the protection from the elements that it requires. So of the new automotive ceramic waxes might be a good option due to their longevity on the surface. ................
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None are difficult if you just proceed through the steps as outlined. Don't get ahead of yourself. Keep things aligned and just concentrate on the next thread you lay down. It'll come out as advertised. ..........
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Doesn't appear to match those numbers. .............
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Waterproof wood glue is fine, but I will caution you that for whatever reason it plays heck with mandrels and will quickly rust them. So once the grip is glued up and ready to turn, get it done, remove it from the mandrel and clean the mandrel before putting it away. Any good liquid or gel-type epoxy works equally well on cork and composite handles. And, of course, it'll be waterproof as well.
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Most competition casters are not using those rods to fight or land fish. Only to cast with. Most use snake guides and often very few of them. ..........
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No, casting distance will not be improved, noticeable nor otherwise. There is very little friction between the line and the guides during casting. However, the rod will be quieter as the line passes through the guides and you may notice a bit smoother line pay out under drag. ..........
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Check with NFC prior to sanding to ensure that sanding will not void the blank warranty. ..........
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A "Casting Robot" is likely impractical as it would cost money to develop and then for each company to purchase. And not sure what it provide in terms of blank measurements. A careful look at the specs, provided they use uniform, objective numbers across the board, like they do for length and physical blank weight, is all you need in order to gauge performance. We already have the t
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No, other than the CCS, there is no uniform, across the board standard for rod powers and actions (which you can't really do with words - you need verifiable numbers). What one mfg calls a "medium heavy" another will list as a "medium." By the way, fly rods are not classified by numbers of grains or feet. They fall into the same boat as any other type rod or blank. One com
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It's not unusual to fit a ceramic tiptop on the tip if you're having a problem there. Because of the angle the line comes across the tiptop, if you're going to have anything groove or wear, it'll usually be the tiptop. ..............
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Noah filmed most of that very late on Sunday afternoon. Surprised he got as much as he did. Very well done video. ...............
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Ed Kramer Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I know the spine is different from the straightest > axis. I am attempting to find the straightest > axis of the four pieces combined. I mounted the > butt section in the rod lathe and supported it > close to the lathe. I set up a vertical piece of > graph paper at the end of the butt section, f
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I prefer to make the straightest axis of each blank section and then assemble them and build that way. ............
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Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > A curved or crooked rod will cast in a straight > line! S-a-a-a-y, that means all the talk about > buying the straightest components to build the > straightest rod to cast with the greatest accuracy > is pure hokum! Yes.
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A crooked or curved rod will not cast to one side. The tip will still move in a straight line and the lure or line will be cast in the direction of that straight line. .........
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Accuracy is in the hands of the person making the cast. ........
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Don't mistake the testing parameters and constants for actual casting. I don't what you mean by "to overloaded the rod." If you do that you'll know it because the rod will have trouble keeping the line airborne, no matter what the caster does. It's not hard to tell when a rod is correctly loaded - casting is nearly effortless and the rod does most of the work. If you are under or ov
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Remember that you do not have to "transition" the line to the bottom of the rod - it will go there naturally if you'll let it. There is a method called a 90-degree transition that has been around for many years. It works well. Not to be confused with the Simple Spiral, which has no transition guides, although is often fitted with a non-transition guide at the 90-degree position to
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