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Today
Tom Kirkman
And spun aluminum, which I grew up fishing with. It's a forgotten rod making material and was actually very good during that time period. ...........
Forum: rodboard
Today
Tom Kirkman
What you say is certainly true - the two tend to serve different functions. The magazine can and does present in-depth articles with direct photos that aren't as easily presented on a forum format. The forum allows builders to get quick answers to pressing questions. The interesting thing is that there is very little crossover between magazine subscribers and this forum's users. Two years ago
Forum: rodboard
Today
Tom Kirkman
..............
Forum: rodboard
Today
Tom Kirkman
People enter the craft at different stages in their lives. And not all take RodMaker. In fact, I started this forum for people who don't take the magazine - the ones who take the magazine really don't need this forum. And as always, posting information like you did is always good. Time was when rod building information of any kind was very hard to come by. .............
Forum: rodboard
Yesterday
Tom Kirkman
over 1200 articles in print to date - I can't keep track. .............
Forum: rodboard
Yesterday
Tom Kirkman
Could be. I'd have to look. We have done so much on thread techniques over the years they sort of run together. ...........
Forum: rodboard
Yesterday
Tom Kirkman
That's the shading article, not quite the same thing. .........
Forum: rodboard
2 days ago
Tom Kirkman
In this instance you look at the distance covered, not the diameter of the thread. D will be thicker/higher and therefore more weight for the distance. ..................
Forum: rodboard
2 days ago
Tom Kirkman
Thread strength is cumulative. Smaller diameter thread gives you more threads per inch than larger diameter thread. So the issue really isn't strength - it's how much additional abuse and rough handling will one give you over the other. D, being "thicker" will withstand more abrasion and over a longer period of time than will A. CP doesn't make the wrap weak whatsoever. True, NCP o
Forum: rodboard
2 days ago
Tom Kirkman
If you are going to add trim bands, even just 2 bands wide, to main wraps that are already made, the nail knot method has much to recommend it. The method that Mark describes can be found in an early issue of RodMaker. .................
Forum: rodboard
3 days ago
Tom Kirkman
The manufacturer will also color it to your specs, although there is an additional charge for that. Unless you're doing a lot of rods in the same color, it may not be cost effective. ..........
Forum: rodboard
4 days ago
Tom Kirkman
It's a point to the circle that many newcomers fall into. It's not necessary. ....................
Forum: rodboard
4 days ago
Tom Kirkman
What are you planning to use to protect the clear coat? ...........
Forum: rodboard
5 days ago
Tom Kirkman
Justin Mercer Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thank for the responses. It sounds like most folks > are in agreement that I’ve gotten soot/smoke in > my epoxy. I’ll admit that I haven’t built any > rods in over 5 years until recently and am having > to relearn some lessons. I’ve also been using a > burner instead of the torch bottle that I
Forum: rodboard
5 days ago
Tom Kirkman
The most common Dayton motor used for power wrapping is a 1/15HP unit. Renzetti offered/s a Dayton 1/10HP unit which I thought was the best all around unit for wrapping and light turning purposes. The Dayton 1/8th might be even better. .............
Forum: rodboard
6 days ago
Tom Kirkman
You can use the Rod Bond and simply turn the arbors around so they capture the epoxy on the way down. From there it won't run out of the arbor. It stays where you put it. ............
Forum: rodboard
6 days ago
Tom Kirkman
Trying different set ups provides a lot more information and subsequent knowledge than simply asking others what you should use. I do recognize that not everyone has or is willing to acquire additional guides to set up and try different guide set-ups. But if you're going to be in the custom rod building craft for awhile, it will do you a tremendous amount of good to do more on-your-own testing.
Forum: rodboard
6 days ago
Tom Kirkman
The old "flamed finish" malady. Soot from the flame. ...............
Forum: rodboard
7 days ago
Tom Kirkman
The gel can be packed into the voids in the arbor - it won't run out. Stays where you put it. ..................
Forum: rodboard
7 days ago
Tom Kirkman
They work fine and due to their self adjusting design make reaming or fitting arbors a non-requirement. Use a gel-type epoxy with them, however. ..............
Forum: rodboard
8 days ago
Tom Kirkman
Outside is the spine - it is the softest/weakest axis. ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Forum: rodboard
8 days ago
Tom Kirkman
Phil Ewanicki Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If the "spine" of a rod blank follows the twist of > the graphite or fiberglass cloth threads that > comprise the fabric which is a modern fish pole, > which part of that twist should I use to locate my > straight-line guide train? I prefer science to > faith when building rods. Th
Forum: rodboard
8 days ago
Tom Kirkman
The spine effect does not run along the blank in a straight line or on a particular axis. It rotates around the blank. If you spine the entire blank, you are getting the overall effect on the total length. If you spine it from say, 1/3rd of the way back from the tip, it will be in a different place and will be the overall effect only on that portion of the blank. Again, the spine is not a physica
Forum: rodboard
8 days ago
Tom Kirkman
Green nylon with no CP will turn somewhat translucent. The feet will show through. .............
Forum: rodboard
9 days ago
Tom Kirkman
The spine is not a physical thing - it is an effect created by various manufacturing anomalies. And it really plays no role in rod performance. I suggest you read this: The white line is most likely the initial tack of the prepeg pattern to the mandrel. ....................
Forum: rodboard
9 days ago
Tom Kirkman
From our online library: .............
Forum: rodboard
11 days ago
Tom Kirkman
For every 20F decrease or increase in temp, the epoxy will double or halve the normal set and cure time. At 150F, you'll know in a few hours if the epoxy is going to set. It won't take days. ...........
Forum: rodboard
13 days ago
Tom Kirkman
There is, in fact, a particular sequence as to how they need to go back in. This is common with any self-centering chuck. Call Batson Enterprises tomorrow and see if they know, or can provide you with the manufacturer's instruction sheet on re-assembly. It's not complicated but if you don't have the right sequence you'll drive yourself batty trying to get it together. ..............
Forum: rodboard
13 days ago
Tom Kirkman
It is possible to do it on wood dowels but you may want to seal the dowel surface first. Wood will soak up a lot of paint, finish, etc., which a rod blank will not. Therefore to best approximate how things will work on a rod blank, it is better to use sections of rods. Flea markets are good sources as well. .............
Forum: rodboard
13 days ago
Tom Kirkman
Don't measure each section - measure the total length of the assembled rod. Ferrule overlaps can vary from manufacturer to manufacturer leading you to believe that your rod is longer than it may be once assembled. ..............
Forum: rodboard
Pages: 12345...LastNext
Current Page: 1 of 552

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