If you're going to be fighting the fish from a stand-up position, I'd definitely stick with no more than 6'6" and preferably 6'. ..................
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The CCS is, perhaps, the very best blank measurement tool ever devised (although it simply works on the same principle as a tape measure or bathroom scale). But Phil is correct that until the manufacturers begin listing CCS values for their blanks its usefulness is held in check to a great deal. ............
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CCF does, and has a chart to approximate the figures so rod builders have some idea of how to relate the numbers to objects they are already knowledgable about. ...........
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Same with cork - there exists a cork grading scale with a percent clarity and photographic chart. But most stick to terms like "flor" "super" and "AA" and not a single one of those has any sort of clarity measurement behind it. Flor can be anything from perfect to rotten. The truth is, manufacturers don't want you to be able to make relative comparisons. Sadly that's
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Action is generally listed by "where the blank initially flexes." If this is in the upper 1/3rd of the blank, then it is a fast action rod. The upper 1/2, then it is a medium action rod. The lower half, then it is a slow action rod. The trouble with this system is that it lacks good resolution. Even by adding additional points such as medium-fast and extra-fast, you're still only at 5
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Do you know what is considered a "cold day" so that you know when to wear a coat? Doubtful, but if the weatherman says it's going to be 25F, you'll probably wear a coat. Same thing with a "long" rod. Exactly how long is long? Depends on who you ask. So having relative numbers is the key. Rod builders would certainly welcome as much information as they can get, but the larg
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If I have power, action, length and weight, in actual relative and objective numbers, you can hand me a set of components and I can pretty much know what I'm going to end up with - how much and what is going to be affected. .................
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Rods are listed by length in actual feet and inches. Is this "ad speak." They could, of course, state something like "This rod has been designed with great care by experts to provide the perfect length for those long distance hook sets required in order to enjoy success in this type of fishing." No doubt it might sell more rods but I'd rather just know how long the rod is, in
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There is a product called Klass Koat and it is what Clemens packaged as their Crystal Coat. It is a paint, not a casting resin, but some like it. Apparently you did and since it is still available you might do a google search and acquire some more to try. ...............
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You can take measurements before, and after, you build the rod on the blank. Good rod builders have a very good idea of what will happen to a rod blank's initial measurements once they assemble the grips, seat, guides, etc. They know what and how much will be affected. By taking measurements before and after, you can quickly learn what to expect in any changes between bare blank and finished rod.
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You shouldn't have many bubbles unless you mixed the epoxy much too briskly. Aside from that, bubbles will release under a bare minimum of heat. Get yourself a butane cigarette lighter and simply pass the flame under the wrap (do not let the flame touch the finish) as you rotate the rod. This shouldn't take more than perhaps 2 or 3 seconds per guide wrap. This is all you need to do. ..........
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I've never cleaned any foil cups and never had a problem. There shouldn't be anything on them to create a problem and I can't believe a vendor would sell mixing cups that need to be cleaned prior to use without stating such on the packaging. ............
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You can make reamers from wooden dowel rod if need be. And keep in mind that the Flex Coat reverse pilot bits will suffice to enlarge EVA bores, too. ...........
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > They make aviation parts out of the stuff, it gets > cold up there and they are under some serious > stresses. Exactly. ................
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The PacBay Minima guides have been close to the best of both worlds for me, although they are not ceramic. .................
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All epoxy hardeners will amber or yellow over time, even after you have applied the epoxy to the rod. Keep in mind that the thickness in the bottle exacerbates the apparent depth of the amber. In a thinner amount, it's barely noticeable. .............
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Seller Composites LLC used to have orange/black > sleeve. Haven't ordered in a while. it's glass not carbon, but that might not make any difference for the intended purpose. .............
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Most carbon skins are supplied in natural charcoal color. The material is not easily dyed/colored in the same fashion as glass can be. To get orange and black, you'll most likely have to paint it. ..............
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As Of November 8: American Tackle Batson/Rainshadow/ALPs Bill Ballou's Custom Fish Grips Custom Fly Grips, LLC Frederick's Stabilized Woods Hitena USA Mickel's Custom Rods Mud Hole Custom Tackle Pacific Bay International RodMaker Magazine The NERBs Trondak U40 VisualWrap Enterprises More To Be Announced...
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Almost everything we do in rod building requires some sort of compromise. Using fewer guides has it advantages and disadvantages just as using more guides does. People often ask me how many guides to use. I tell them to use the correct number - which is always the fewest number that will still provide adequate stress distribution to the rod and ensure that it will hold up to the task at hand.
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There is very little friction between the line and the guide rings - keep in mind that one of the main components of friction is pressure. During the cast, there is next to nothing pressing the two surfaces against each other. I once made some crude guides from paper clips (AETNA style), and attempting to keep the weight as close as possible (yes I weighed the two sets) attempted to see how mu
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That's a pretty huge assumption, but if you go that route you'd space them just like you would most any other rod - do a static distribution test to locate them. I'd put the stripping guide 32 inches from the butt, and the first tipmost guide about 4 inches behind the tiptop ring. Space the remainder between those guides per the distribution test. ...............
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Scott Giaquinto Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 16-12 strippers,-6-6-6-5-5-5-4-4 single foot > wire,-large loop tip. I like going oversized, just > psychological I guess. Never had a bad casting rod > even though most of my builds are on cheap no name > blanks. Am currently about to start the same blank > in a 5wt and that's what I'm going
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I know people have their own definitions of "Action" but I find it best to use the term as it was defined by blank manufacturers over the past century - where or how the rod initially bends (all rods have a progressive action and will flex into the butt area if you apply enough load to them). Action and Speed, while inter-related, are two different properties. Note in the CCS, you have
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No, they use very few guides. Weight remains the enemy and this is true with tournament casters whether they are casting surf type rods or fly rods. Try it for yourself - remove a third of the guides on any rod you have, re-space them and go cast it. You won't want to fish with it but you'll be amazed at how far you can cast. ......................
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In my rod repair career, I have replaced thousands of grooved snake and wire tip-tops. I have replaced a handful of damaged ceramic guides (they are more prone to failure from dropping, crushing, etc.) Snakes and wire guides have improved in the past 20 years and the problem may be as acute as it once was. I have no idea why you would use fewer snakes than ceramics - a guide is a guide in tha
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I am speaking about fishing for "hot" fish - fish that actually strip line from the reel under drag. And you would be talking about a 0.6 gram difference, and even that minute amount would be spread out along the rod, not all concentrated at the tip. Yes there would be some difference, but it would be very, very slight. Easiest thing for people to do to if interested in determini
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Ceramics pay out line much more smoothly under load. This has to do with fish fighting - drag is more than just the reel, it is also the guides that play a role. Ceramics continue to get lighter and lighter. The weight penalty is there, but not nearly to the degree it was 20 years ago. ..........
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I think you mean speed, not action - action is where the rod initially flexes and guide type doesn't change that. Speed is how quickly a rod reacts and recovers. .........
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