The Seeker CBS Series for instance. RodGeeks had something similar a few years ago. They might still offer them. ...........
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A lot of things Edison did turned out not to work. At any rate, the only control you'd have over what you suggest is cutting the pattern to move the overlap to a different point. But even that is going to be a bit haphazard as it is only one of maybe seven or eight variables that create what rod builders call "spine." Even if you got lucky, the difference between the softest (spine) and
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The original New Guide Concept was initiated in the mid 1990's. .........
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Chris Rosell Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > I have now learned about the Oddball Reduction > Train developed by some builders and highlighted > in the Rod Builders Magazine. Will be testing it > out today with my own modification (4th layout) > and posting some results. This is not a > scientific test to say the least, yet I wi
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Building on the stiffest axis (this isn't the spine) does offer the greatest power or deadlift capacity for the very reason you mention - more material on the compression side of the blank. ........
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I guess what I'm saying is that you can't "enhance" spine other than by chance. It's an unfortunate "defect" of rod blank due to the process used to make them. Many companies have tried to eliminate it but none have been successful thus far. When I say spine is not a physical thing my meaning is that there is no physical beam, splint, etc., installed in the blank to create
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Spine is a physical effect, but not a physical part, piece, section, etc. The last Hot Shot blank I measured had an AA of about 84. .............
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The spine is not a physical thing - it is created by a combination of manufacturing anomalies. So to increase the spine effect, the manufacturer would have to have control over these anomalies and be able to manipulate them as required. Obviously if such control were possible, they would be building rod blanks with no spine effect whatsoever. ..........
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The problem is that you'd have to cast on that particular axis every time. The better idea, and it's been in used for half a century now, is to have very fast light tip rod such as we see with live bait models and Hot Shot rods. These rods have tremendous power but remain capable of casting very light lures. The light power tip doesn't get in the way of the rod's tremendous power further back
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Something between you and the RBO server. Nothing on the RBO end. .........
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It is almost certainly either an All-Star, Castaway or Shikari. I don't have a catalog in front of me so I cannot say for sure which it is. ..........
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It is a true "High-Build" finish and will likely be welcomed by those who understand how to use an epoxy with this slightly thicker viscosity. LS-Supreme is similar in viscosity. The trick with these is to put them on and leave things alone. Let them do what they do for several minutes rather than attempting to manipulate the finish to make it level. They'll do that on their own if you
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I should add that it is important to remember we are talking about a 2nd application over a "sticky" 1st application... not necessarily over a soft, spongy not even close to being cured 1st application. ..............
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Nylon washers between locking rings are intended to provide a smooth surface between the rings which facilitates tightening that second ring. If you have an O-ring (some do) that is to provide a bit of spring force between the locking rings to prevent easy loosening while transporting, fishing, etc. Both of these problems were solved with the advent of the nylon composite reel seats which do both
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A light application of properly measured and mixed epoxy will be fine. Ralph O'Quinn, a prominent epoxy formulator and originator of the Trondak U-40 product line, advocated doing this in situations identical to yours. ............
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Ross has probably done more painted grips than any builder alive. ............
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All epoxies are going to turn yellow to some extent. The interior wood product epoxies are among the worst so I'd suggest sticking with those intended for use on rods. ..........
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Thanks Bob. I believe he was talking specifically about the foam core, carbon skinned grips. The original article on that technique was in volume 10 #6. ...........
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Steve Stolle Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I looked for a back issue first and its sold out . > I will stop asking questions . The issue that unveiled carbon skinned, foam core grips to the world is not sold out. It is volume 10 #6. .............
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Most likely you did not accurately measure and/or mix the two epoxy components. .............
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Generally no. It'll work but tends to yellow more quickly and worse than what is sold specifically for thread. ........
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I certainly wouldn't advise putting "several coats" of epoxy on them. A thin sealer coat is all that is needed if you're going to paint or otherwise coat them with something. The carbon skin I use is the 13 mil thickness. ........
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When Andy and I first developed these grips we talked about other ways of utilizing the core without a carbon skin. I have done a lot of experimentation on painting and coating them. Here's a few things I've learned... 1. You will need to have fairly dense surface in order for any paint or coating to provide a top notch appearance. Yes it makes a huge difference in terms of density when you po
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That I can't tell you. The butt guide size is dependent on your reel size and line type and size. ...........
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You don't need all those different sizes. No rod would require more than 3 different sizes. A butt guide, intermediate guide and then all the same size running guides. ............
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Fuji remains dedicated to ceramic guide rings. Thus there is no alternative in a Fuji project. But they remain the most copied guide manufacturer of all time.... and for good reason. The American Tackle Vortex Air guides are a lightweight guide that will do the job for you. Don't be fooled by their light appearance - they'll hold up to what you want to do. Cork would be my choice over any EVA
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The bond is between the blank and arbor, and the arbor and the seat. You don't need epoxy anywhere else. Because masking tape can break down over time due to moisture getting into the tape (masking tape is just thin paper with a self adhesive) it should be common practice to coat the ends of the tape arbors with epoxy. If you must use tape, Fiberglass Drywall tape is always a better option.
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How much adhesive are you adding and why? The fit between arbors and blank should be close - a "slip fit." The amount of adhesive needed to bond the arbors to the blank and the handle to the arbors should be absolutely insignificant in terms of weight. Hopefully you are not attempting to fill the linear space between the arbors with adhesive. That does add weight yet does not provid
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He may be talking about common variegated thread. …………
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Gabs told me that it would be another 4 to 6 months before they have inventory to sell again. ..........
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