This was my first cross wrap attempt. It is a 3wt fly rod!
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I built this rod bench so I could have a designated space! So far it works great.
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This is a pheasant back feather. First time I tried it.
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This was my first feather inlay.
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I only use one coat. Never saw the need for more. Anytime I tried I ended up with issues because it didn't soak in and just dried on top of the other coats. One has always worked just fine for me!
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I have made and used both for Alaska Salmon fishing. Both are a lot of fun. I feel the GLX is a bit faster but usually more expensive as wel. The Gl3 is a great blank. I would take either of the two that was more affordable. For fishing that size I never thought the difference was that great.
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I actually tore the chuck apart and cleaned it well. It now will clamp just barely enough to hold the madrel still. I have a live center on the tail stock already as well. I do not know though if the head stock is slightly wobbling or the mandrel is wobbling but something is moving a bit. It works good enough to sand down cork but I don't think I'd want to do wood the way it is now. I made a cork
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I have an old Delta 46-700 lathe I got a few months back. It has a 3 jaw chuck in it but it does not go small enough to accomodate my cork mandrel. Do I need to buy a Jacobs chuck or something else to go into the 3 jaws so I can hold smaller diameter pieces? New to wood turning so any help you can provide would be great.
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Batsons makes that rod in a 2pc med-fast but it is a 3wt in the RX7 Graphite. If you want a 2wt you will have to go 6'6 or so.
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Shawn, I live here in Colorado so I might be able to help you out. I have fished with and built St. Croix and Baston. Both were wonderful. I have also started playing with the smaller weight RX6 from Batson. You can build a nice rod completed for under $100 with those blanks. They are not quite as fast as the RX7 or RX8 but they are considerably cheaper as well. Do you know what fish you are l
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Tom, Any idea where I could get a chart like that?
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Now I have a question! Is there a specific way to measure fly snake guides? Is there a way to measure that a 6 is a 6 and so on? Just curious if I loose my markings how do I know which one is which size? Can they be measured like the others?
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Gouges seem pretty hard to sharpen due to their shape. Maybe I am wrong but anything flat seems way easier to sharpen. Guess I need to buy a dvd demonstration to see how it is done.
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Thanks Tom, I think I am looking more for hand stones though. Eventually I might go with the electic system, but for now I want to use hand sharpening stones and wanted advice with what works best.
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I am looking to purchase sharpening stones for lathe tools, hand planes, and an axe. Does anyone have any suggestions as to which type are the best and most useful? I have done some looking and have seen several different styles and was wondering if anyone had any advice for me. Thanks,
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Jason unhide your email and I can talk to you about it.
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James, I am in Thornton Co.
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There is a technique were after a few wraps you put in the end of the silver and wrap a few more over it. Then you wrap both colors for a few turns and continue on with the black. After you tie off the black you go back to the silver and unravel it until it is just about at one complete turn. It should have the black over it at that point and then you snip it off. Once you pack the threads tight
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I just went to a local fly shop that specializes in fly tying and told them what I was looking for. They had a few of them and gave them to me for free. Local can be a great source!
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Canned air or air compressor work just dandy!
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Alex is right on with citristirop. Used it recently and loved the results.
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I have used 5 minute several times with out fail but it sets quick. I started using quick bond a while back and like it much better. It is still fast but you have more time to work with it. If you don't have time to get some for these projects I would just use what you are familiar with, but look into getting some in the future.
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I would use an alcohol burner instead of a torch. You can isolate the heat to just the bubble. Any time I have heated the epoxy up to much it pools in the center of the wrap away from the sides as well. Basically I would avoid thinning or over heating it ever. Let it be in its natural viscosity for best results.
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Walt, Some good advice above. I would finish the rod, and hand present it to the family with your condolences. If they ask if anything was owed I would be upfront and let them know he paid for the parts and due to the circumstances nothing more is owed. It is the right thing to do. From a business stand point parts is what I can not afford to foot the bill on. Labor is free until I charge for
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I sent you one as well!
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I am sure if you search under the topics you will find lots of information on this, but using a heat gun, or boiling water will usually work well for both seat and cork.
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I have used several of the Stuble small diameter reel seats lately for 2,3,4 wt fly rods. They work great because they are desiged for that much smaller rod. They can be pricey but are really high quality.
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The best stripper I have used is Citristrip. You can get it at any box store, walmart, etc. It is cheap and removes epoxy well with out harming anything below.
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I would give it a shot on the reel seat or the handle.
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Out of curiosity, what would be an advantage of the cork reel seat? Is it weight, or just looks? Does it really hold up well?
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