Good on you, Tom. Thanks for all your advice and for hosting Rodbuilding.org. This site has been such a help for me. Hopefully it will continue for years to come. Cheers, Greg
Forum: rodboard

Well, when I say "scuffed it off" I actually meant that I sanded the cloudy (fogged) finish off. 1000 grit is pretty fine and after brushing any dust off I recoated the wrappings and no it doesn't look scuffed underneath. I cut and folded a 40mm long and 6mm wide strip of wet &dry and just took care not to go down to the thread or onto the blank. Worked for me. Cheers, Greg
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I had a similar thing happen to me about a week ago (I posted it on the forum). Tom suggested amine blush and it probably was. Initially I was going to strip the guides and rewrap but I figured I had nothing to lose. It was only a cheap blank and I was building it for my own use so I left it in warm full sun for a few days. After three days it had improved quite a bit but the cloudy surface
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Thanks Tom and James for the info. I think I'll just bite the bullet, rewrap and hope it doesn't happen again. It being a rare occurrence I reckon I'd have to be pretty unlucky to have it happen again on the same rod. Cheers, Greg
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I have just had a single coat of FlexCoat (high build) dry over two coats of Chromaseal. The result is a strange, uneven, milky marbelling on the surface of the dried FlexCoat. Looks terrible and the whole lot will have to come off unless someone has a remedy. I thought of a second coat of FlexCoat but I think that would just seal the bumpy, milky suface under it. I have been hobby building fo
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I have had Batson blanks shipped to Australia by both Hook&Hackle and ShoffTackle. No problems. I am sure some of the suppliers on the left are just as efficient and accommodating. Just relating my personal experience. Cheers, Greg
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I made up one of these (TFO) blanks and did not like the look of the painted section so I scrubbed it off with a scotchbrite pad. It came off really easy (looks much better). I have not fished it much but the sections seem to seat down OK. Have I caused an irreparable problem for the future?? Thanks, Greg
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My apologies Tom. I did not realise there was so much damage. I did not intend to put pressure on you good people. You all do a great job which is much appreciated. I was just trying to figure out why things were not working the way they used to and be sure it was not something I was doing wrong. I have a low tolerance for vandals of any kind and hope these people "pay" for their im
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Yep, I agree Ian, the 'sevier' search now shows up....but it didn't previously for me ... honest. Now try 'dan craft' (which is what I did right after reading your reply) again "no result", at my end anyway.
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I have selected "all dates" and I am not looking for an author. Maybe I am doing something wrong here but just for the sake of experimentation try searching for "Sage". I get "1-30 of 5087" results When I search for "Dan Craft" or "Sevier" I get "No results were found". Is it an operator error on my part or is there a problem with the
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Is there a problem with the search function? I just keep getting "there were no results etc" messages when I know that I have had successful searches previously on the same topics. Thanks, Greg
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Thanks again for the detail guys. I'll see if I can find a suitable piece. Cheers, Greg
Forum: rodboard

Thanks Tom, your reply came in while I was posting my reply to Ted. My concerns are much the same. I would prefer to work from the butt up as you recommend, however,I would have to remove a glued-in, threaded butt plug to get at the internal tube. This is not beyond my capability but is starting to be more trouble than it's worth for a relatively cheap rod. Filling the tube with epoxy wont w
Forum: rodboard

Thanks for that Ted. The rod is already made up so I will have to insert the internal sleeve from the top of the male ferrule, thick end first, right? Do I need some method to stop the internal sleeve piece sliding down into the butt or trust that Rod Bond's viscosity plus the binding/taping will keep it in place? And I imagine the internal sleeve's external diameter will need to be very close to
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Yes, that's right Tom. Any suggestions? Thanks in anticipation, Greg
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I have a 8w 5pc fly rod that has developed a 2 inch longitudinal crack/split in the male butt ferrule.This opens up to about 1mm under pressure. As it is the butt I would be keen to fix it rather than replace it with a new butt section. I have thought of filling the first couple of inches with slow cure epoxy or Rod Bond. Is this feasible? Is there a better repair? Regards, Greg
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I've stripped the blank and it seems like the epoxy had wicked into the thread. Strange that it has never happened before on quite a few dozen rods. I will do a trial with thinned CP as you suggest Denis. Thanks guys great advice as always. Cheers, Greg H
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I think you are right Denis that the epoxy has 'wicked' into the fibres of the threads but I was using the 'old' clear GudebrodCP which I presume does not need mixing before application(?). I had used 2 coats as you suggested Fred and I think I usually pack pretty tight Bob, so I am at a loss. I did neglect to mention I was using A thread but I guess you all assumed this and I don't see how tha
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I have just put epoxy (FlexCoat Hi Build) on some wraps (Gudebrod Nylon #521 Dk Green) and within minutes noticed random dark striations running thru the wraps with some dark blotching where the thread ends have been pulled under. I had used Gudebrod#811 CP on the wraps. Although I am a casual rod buider of over 30 yrs experience I have never seen this before. This is the first time I have used
Forum: rodboard

I have a 4pc 5w blank. The female ferrule closest to the butt has 3 small splits/cracks about 3-4mm long on the surface to a depth of about half the thickness of the blank wall like the blank has splintered when being cut. I don't want these to run and as I haven't started building yet do I fill them with epoxy, sand and wrap or trim them off the end of the ferrule with a cutting wheel? Any othe
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