Did more research and found out Hook and Hackle sell the Eco Wrapper. They gave me another e-mail address to contact Clyde. I did get hold of him today. Thanks all for our help.
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That's good to know. I'm sure my credit will thank you.
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I am looking to build a 8 or 10wt. for salt water and was wanting to know what would be a good blank. I have built several 4 and 5 wt. rods using the RX6 blanks and really like them. Any suggestions for a 8 or 10 wt. blank?
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I know. I need some of the open cell rubber. This is something I can purchase from one of my company vendors, but I my though was he may have them precut and all I will have to do is put it on the wrapper. He gave me some suggestions and help when I first started using the EcoWrapper. I just like to support the guys that help me out.
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Does anyone what happen to The Rod Shop? I purchased one of his EcoWrapper from him at the 2008 High Point rod building show and I am trying to contact him for some replacement parts. I have tried all his contacts - email, website and phone numbers. Let me know if anyone can help me get in contact with him. Thanks,
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Thanks. I'm not sure how or why my email is hidden.
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Hi all. I have to repair a rod I built a few years back and need more thread. I use Gudebrod "A" #521 Dark Blue. I hear they closed up sometime around 2013. Does anyone know if any of this thread is still around? Or what would be something equal to this? I had a good stock of nylon thread but I am running low now because I've been doing more silk work these days. I appreciate any help
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An update on the butt cap removal. In addition to reaching out to all you guys I also e-mailed Trondak U-40. Later that same day I got a call from them with their suggestion as how to get my butt off. I tried it and it worked great. Here it is. Heat the butt cap with an alcohol burner. With leather gloves on grip the butt cap in one hand and with your other hand grip the reel seat start working
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Thanks all. I had an idea that some type of heat would be needed to breakdown the epoxy but wasn’t sure what method to use. I felt stupid for doing this, but at least I found it before the customer got it.
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I just put together a nice bamboo rod. I have it all complete but putting on the guides and I was looking it over before I started the guides and found out I have put the slide band on backwards. I used U 40 Rod Bond epoxy to assembly the reel seat and grip to the rod. The reel seat hardware I used for this build is RA7L2SKC-SG Aluminum/Shiny Gunsmoke Anodizing from Batson. Is there any way to
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That's the guy I've tried. I've not gotten a reply to my e-mail. I will try to phone him later. He also sells a cool mortising fixture to use on a router table. David Cockerham Elkin NC
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Thanks Walt. I don't know why I didn't think of Grizzly myself. I've used them a lot over the years. David
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Thanks Scott. Do you have a name of the company? I've look on the internet but found only one guy that has them. I've tried to contact him, but with no luck yet. David
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Torin, I agree with the other guys. There are a number of different ways you do the same process. I’ve made a few acrylic reel seats and I make mine on a mandrel. This works great for me as the reel seats I’ve made have a mortised cut out for the reel foot to set on. I haven’t yet gotten around to getting a router bit for this process so I setup the reel seat blank mounted on the mandrel
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Any one out there making mortised fly rod reel seat? I am looking to start making the myself. I've made a few the hard way. I set up my indexing fixture in the milling machine and mill them out with end mill and went back and sanded out the ridges. Work great, but too hard and slow. I am making a fixture for my router table to route them out, but I can't find a bit without having one make. Can
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Guy’s thanks for all your suggestions. I think my brain vapor locked. But after a few days of thinking about this, I remembered a devise we made at work for some equipment we designed and made some years a go and I think I will give that a try. If it works like I hope it will, I will let all know.
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I've use the P-touch labels on some of my rods. The labels look great, but I found two things I don't like about them. First the labels are thick and second, I found they don't like to be coated directly with two part epoxies. The chemical reaction will cause the edges of the label to roll out. I’ve tried different ways to prevent this. What I’ve found that works best for me is to apply the l
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I would like to find a rod dryer with a clutch motor so I can hold the rod momentarily to apply rod finish and do some touch ups as needed. I know someone makes them but I can't seem to remember who. Any you guys using one that you would recommend?
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A few years back I purchased a wooden pen blank to make a reel seat. The blank was labeled Bronze wood. The reel seat turned out beautifully! I got the material from one of the local woodworking stores and I have not been able to find anymore of these blanks. Any of you know where I can find this type of wood? It’s a very nice burl. I did look at some of the sponsors of the board but have not
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Tim, Here is a formula you can use to find the OD threads for you rod tube cap. You will need a thread pitch gauge. You can pick one up at good hardware store. I would suggest to pickup one each for inch and metric threads. Here is what you need to measure first. With your thread gauges find the thread pitch. Lets say it is 20TPI. You now need to divide 1” by the pitch. 1/20=0.05 Now th
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Thanks Tom, but what is a “4-way” tool? David Cockerham
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I ‘m taking my rod building to the next step. I’ve turned a lot of my own reel seats and have worked a little with cork grips making modifications or resizing them, but I haven’t yet built one from scratch. I don’t think it will be too hard to build cork grips, but the one thing that I can’t seem to accomplish is to produce the clean sharp edges and lines I want. Anyone have some a
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I make my own using the Brother P-touch label maker M/N PT 1500 PC. David Cockerham
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What type of labels are you using? I use P-touch labels on some of the rods I build. I use the one part rod finish made by Gudebrod for my first coat over the label. This helps to reduce the lifting or peeling of the label edges. It also helps to make a good ramp to transition the label edges to the rod blank. I them let that coat dry for 24 hours, then I apply my top coat with Flex Coat fini
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Bill, I also have a Brother P-Touch labeler setup on my PC. It sounds like you’ve done about the same experiments I’ve done. The problem I had is when I applied Flex Coat to the label it would react with the heat created by the epoxy kicking off. This is where the edges of the label would peel or roll up. To solve this problem I use the one part rod finish made by Gudebrod for my first co
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Thanks. I can't tell you how many times I've been to their and didn't know they carry this item.
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A friend of mine has a retail sports store and is going to sell some of my rods in his shop. I would like to put a plastic protective sleeve over the grips. I know some of the big rod makers do this as well. Does anyone know where to get these sleeves?
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That sounds cool! My wife works at a drug store and her best freind is one of the pharmacist there too. I will see if they carry the same syringes.
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Thanks guys. I going to try drilling holes in the bottle caps.
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Guy, This is my first post. I’ve been coming to the board for a long time and found a lot of helpful information. One topic I need some with is the use of Flex Coat syringes. What is the best method to fill, clean and store these syringes? David K. Cockerham
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