Hydra blank from ALX rods. Kigan zirconia micros and tip. 7'3" 3.8oz finished weight.
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Hydra Blank from ALX Rods. Makes a great stick. 3.9oz finished weight. fuji spiraled alconites
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For those big blanks
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electric decals go metal
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TM lite w/ testors black pigment to hide the rodbond under the threaded portion of the seat.
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7' Fiberglass mystery blank model number is "S-Glass C-706"
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i usually offer 24hr turnaround - but with the caveot that it is a short-term fix. Most guys who need that are going on a trip or have a tournament and can't wait. I simply use 30min epxoy and let them know it should be properly repaired at some point (usually winter).
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sk2 (spinning) with uplocking foregrips seem like a good reason to have split grips to me. i just finished 3 and not a single exposed thread on the reelseat.
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i've built on the mhx standard modulous FS904 as well as the rainshadow 904. I've recently built 3 or 4 on the Hydra FL904 - one as a 7'4 and the other extended to 7'8" - really like these blanks. Good value and just feel lighter and better balanced in hand. There is a FL955 and 966 (7'11" and 8' respectively) that might suit your needs. I've been dealing with Alex and Hydras for a 3 ye
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^^^^^ that one.
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think i will try to make this one, sounds like a good time.
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i use uscompisites 3:1 epoxy. I built an entire boat using it like 9 years ago and it still floats so i figure it's up to the task.
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My experience (bass fishing in michigan) has been similar to mcclellands. Especially with baitcasting gear. What i have found with my micro rods is that every 1 or 2 casts or so (air temp in the mid 20s to 30s) i need to rinse the top half in the water to clear it and make another cast. What i have found is that the line guide on my baitcaster often freezes up well before the stripper (size 6
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An interesting blurb about micros- v -conventional/oversized guides and icing from Mike McClelland on his first day of the classic From the article: "It was pretty frustrating," McClelland said. "From 10:30 on, I could make two or three casts. It was that way until the afternoon, then it wasn't a problem anymore." McClelland tried rods with over-size guides and one
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most pro staffers don't under stand that "pro" stands for "promotional" not professional. I staff for some folks and the bottom line is you don't need guys who are really good at fishing, you need respected guys that will do their best to promote your business and do it for "sponsorship benefits" rather than pay. Too many people just want the discount, the freebi
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"trigger less" - does this mean its a spinning rod?
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i'll second that Eric.
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2 coats krylon fixative, 1 ample coat Flex Coat CP. I've also been inserting a krylon clear UV protectant between fixative and CP lately
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only time i use a conventional these days is for topwater rods and jerkbaits. i haven't had too much trouble selling the spiral, but usually don't push back too hard if someone is stuck on a conventional wrap. in the long term if they are happy with the end product, they got exactly what they wanted. Main sell for me is that i use mostly micros and the spiral just makes life easier! i know it d
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I would like to mention - i'm typically using BLNAG or Kigan guides - i haven't used the kr fujis - as Jim pointed out. Given the performance of a bumper spiral vs a standard spiral vs conventional wrapping - i'd have a hard time beleiving there is much if any noticeable diference (good or bad) by using the KR guides. May be some benefits in the frame-height when it comes to spiralling however.
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on a slow spiral, i usually just use a size 7 for the first guide and then the same sized micro runners. single foot guides don't seem to give you as much clearance from the blank, but in a slow spiral, the transition isn't as extreme - just mock them with a reel and and line through it (add load) to tweak the placement. 4.5s should pass your knots ok. i'm not familiar with a sebile knot, but
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seeker bc706s is pretty close. probably a bit more power and a faster action, on the other hand the lamiglass MB84-1E is very close in both power and action - those just being from personal observation, not calculated tests, so take it for what its worth.
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probably don't need the 5, 11 guides is more than you'll need for a 6'9". Do the static test and use the NGC and 27x method to set your first #4 and then place your spinning guides accordingly. Hopefully you have match guides based on those sizes.
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another trick i use is that if i see the epoxy repelling off of a spot while applying it - then use you're epoxy brush and "scrub" the area somewhat forcefully. then i go back over it with the blank spinning to smooth out the finiish
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clean it with DNA and put color preserver over it. decals tend to attract contaminants from your hands or anything they come in contact with. A coat of CP will play nice with the epoxy - be sure not to touch it once the CP dries. I do this on clear stick on decals, water slides and vinyl i print myself, works everytime.
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i ream first, then turn down my grips. they are always true to center that way. if you are using pre-fab grips, just go slow.
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i drill my rings 1 at a time on a press. i found a set of "stubby augers" at harbor freight for cheap. they are short ,but perfect for 1/2"-3" thick boring.
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