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Turned this one out of stainless steel and buffalo horn.
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A pair of two PacBay SP843-2 7' spinning rods. Threads: Pacific Bay Stay True black n white under purple and light blue. Guide wraps are done with Talbot thread, some orange(unfortunately I the color number is not on the spool) 2 coats of color preserver were applied prior to epoxy.
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#A StayTrue black and yellow under green thread. preserved with 2 coats of CP under epoxy.
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mangrove wood/corckhanle, mangrove reel seat and ebony custom made winding checks. I have inserted some lead into the butt section to balance the rod right at the reel seat.
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This is my very first tiger wrap thanks to RodMaker Magazine. As asked by Scott, here I post a pic. Gudebrod C, black, NCP sunburst #200, CP, two layers of epoxy, outer layer NCP garnet #206.
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Split grip handle with quality cork and hand turned guayakan wood (has a very good smell when turning. fuji reel seat skeletized and inserted wood. the finish is only a wax polish. this wood is so oily and durable that it actually doesn't need a coating os stabilization. Tiger butt wrap.
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Hey Guys! Thank you for your answers and opinions. What I do for international traveling: I have built a rod case, 83 cm long. this is going into a semi soft suitcase. It is a rather lean and longish sport bag with rollers. The terminal tackle and stuff is going as well in there. It is incredible though how fast I reach the maximum bag weight ;) The reels I am carrying always in the carryo
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I didn't thought yet looking at fly blanks. from my gutt feeling they are supposed to be more on the slow side? maybe not. The added weight through the ferrules though is actually one of the things I am scared off. Plus there is one clicking sound in my mind when I remember back in my childhood when I was holding the heavy old bamboo rod from my grandpa. (I think the ferrules jus did not fit
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Hi there I am wondering whether anybody had already the pleasure to build high quality travel rods. While there are thousands of one piece blanks available on the market for thousands of application, most manufacturers are carrying only a few travel blanks. if any, and then they do not match at all with the one piece blank series. When I am at home, I love to fish my one piece rods, how
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I do have a lathe and drill press available the lathe is a metal lathe though. I have 3 and 4 jaw chucks. so basically those irwine drill bits are those paddle type bits, right? those which have a cutting edge on the very outer sides. I`ll try those if I can get them in a decent lenth. Drilling from both sides is always a mess, it is virtually impossible to center the two bores. it is a
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Got that, I ream the grips as well IF there is allready a smaller diameter bore. But what I am trying to do is to start from a block material, without any bore, put it on a mandrel and turn it on the lathe. One possibility I see is to cut the EVA in slices, and stamp the initial bore then adhere the slices together, but I would like to avoid this cutting thing.
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Hi guys, I am struggling to drill an EVA grip handle. I have no Idea how to do that best. if I am using a regular drill bit the I am ending up with a mess of an unusable handle. Anybody can give me a hint?
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I forgot to mention that it is gonna be fished with a spinning reel.
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Hey Guys, I would need your advise. I'm about to build a speed jigging rod on a JM350 blank from Jigging Master 5'8" max recommended drag setting is slightly more than 50#. I'm kinda new to this speed jigging thing and I am wondering which guide setup would be advisable. I want to use Fuji's MNST's. Does anybody here has experience on how many and which sise to use? My first guess would be
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I use really sharp nail clippers to trim the tag end. I pull on the tag end 90 degrees from the blank, in a way that the tag end stretches a bit. Then I place the nail clippers directly on the wrap and trim the tag end. The applied stretch will help to pull the trimmed tag end to pull underneath the wrap. A bit of burnishing and you're done. Key is to have sharp nail clippers. I am using a dr
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These types of guides are often used in Europe, too, on telescopic rods. The guides are adhered at the and of each section, you can use either hotmelt, or epoxy. The ones with plastic inlays are used mainly at the tip section where you just slide them down on the blank to get a more equal load distribution. I still have some of these rods, they're good if you need a real long pole, or for travell
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I would replace the whole forehandle. taking a foregrip in similar shape, drill the hole out to the diameter of the blank and cut that in half with a razor blade and adhere it into place. this won't be easy to make it look nice. BTW do you need a corck foregrip? if not you could either turn the foregrip down and overwrap it with threadwork. just a thought.
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