It's been a few years since I've built a rod, although prior to that, I'd roll up ~5 a year. I'm not at all familiar with most of the current blanks save for MHX, from I built a few 6wts a couple of years ago, so I'm looking for some recommendations. I recently organized my rod collection, and came across a rod that I built ~15 years ago, a Dan Craft 8'9" 4wt. I think was his Sig IV serie
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I built a rod on an FT905-4 blank back in the early-mid 2000's. I hated it for years - couldn't cast it at all with 5 or 6wt lines on it. Last year I had a thought and put a 7wt Rio ultra fast sinking line on it for my lake fishing. What a change - the rod came alive and I could cast the entire line. It became my go-to tool for deep water trout and I loved it. Unfortunately, the rod was stol
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Had a bunch of my gear stolen while fishing the past weekend, and one rod that I lost was built on an FT 905 blank. This rod sat in my basement for years and years because I never found a way that I could effectively cast it until last fall when I stuck an ultra fast full sink 7wt line on it. The rod then became my lake fishing sinking line darling - it just honked out line, and actually felt pre
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A friend has asked me to repair a Winston boron rod made for him by a family member. The upper two sections of the rod were broken and Winston supplied replacement sections. The particular thread used to wrap the rod is long gone, so I suggested one possibility would be for me to strip the guides from the lower two sections and rewrap them along with the two new sections with the thread that I wo
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I recently built a Z-axis 9' 8wt 4 piece. I absolutely love the rod, but am annoyed that I constantly have to re-cinch the middle ferrule roughly every 20-30 minutes while fishing. The top ferrule seems snug, but occasionally the bottom one loosens up as well. Any one else experience this, and suggest a solution? Thanks, Troy
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I usually wrap ~2x the largest ferrule diameter as suggested above, but was wondering if that was sufficient for the Z-axis since they've gone to a graphite scrim from fiberglass in previous models like the XP. Ferrules didn't look to be very bulked up to me either. Have only ever had one rod break at the ferrule, but would rather be safe than sorry.
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I'm building on a Sage Z-axis for the first time (8wt 4 piece), and am wondering how short of a ferrule wrap I can get away with. I haven't seen a factory rod in the flesh yet, so I don't know what Sage is doing. Thanks! Troy
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I'm looking to build a 7wt IMX and an 8wt GLX (both 9 footers), but don't know of a Canadian source for the blanks. Any suggestions? Many thanks, Troy
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When turning the butt section of a rod I'm building up, it came off the turner during it's overnight drying run. The epoxy over the hook holder wrap is ok, no waves or bumps, but the area over the inscription has a noticeable sag. I did the second coat (I'm using LS Supreme) anyways hoping that it would become less noticeable, but no dice, if anything it is worse. I'm thinking of sanding dow
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Any suggestions for trim wraps with either the brown or sunburst? Thanks, Troy
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I'm thinking of building up an 8wt Legend Elite blank for Atlantic salmon (and feedback on this blank would be welcome as well). Any suggestions for good colours and combinations with this blank? Thanks, Troy
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How do people feel about the RX-8 (3 or 4 piece) in general? I see it gets a lot of praise in the lighter weights.
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On my last Atlantic salmon trip this year, a guide stepped on and crushed my beloved (and discontinued) 8'9" St Croix Legend Ultra 8wt. I've been thinking of trying out an RX-8 blank as a replacement. Any difference in performance between the 4 piece and the 3 piece? I generally prefer 3 piece blanks and rods, so would go with that if all other things are equal. I would try the SCV,
Forum: rodboard