I sent Dan a rod on March 15th that I built for a customer that needs a new tip piece. He has not responded to 3 followup emails and I'm getting spooked that he went out of business. This was my customer's favorite rod and heis not happy. Anyone have any luck reaching him lately?
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Gald you got it off. Placing the reel seat in boiling water for 15 minutes or so loosens the epoxy in most cases- even Rod Bond.
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Tom is obviously a master rodbuilder and capable of this conversion but others may not be. Personally, I'd buy a new 4-pc. blank and sell your 2-pc. on @#$%&
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I was curious about the Fly Logic blanks that I've seen on @#$%& for some time now (it seems some fly shop has many for sale) so I bought a 3 pc., 9 wt. Optimum model for $50.00. They also list an Optimum Plus for $80 to $100. It's a very nice blank. Fast action, nice compound taper (another taper in the tip section, not a straight line from butt to tip), lightweight and a nice finish. Aft
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Some sanding of the wrap and another wrap and more finish couldn't hurt.
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I'll repeat my standard reply to these questions and say that I've never been happy with any of my attempts to paint a blank. They are never close a factory finish where they use lint free booths, specials spray guns, etc. Homemade painting can show sags, drips, uneven areas or the finish coats chip when used. Just my opinion.
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I'd heat the ferrule (note spelling), peel off the finish (slice some off carefully with a razor blade to get to threads) and thread wraps and re-wrap and finish.
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I had a problem with them too awhile back. I got a response after I posted a similiar inquiry on this forum. Maybe he'll see this and respond. Draw you own conclusions on this business.
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Rod bond is what you want. Long curing time , easy to mix (just eyeball equal parts) so you move parts, easy clean up (denatured alcohol) and it doesn't dry completely rock hard, there's a slight amount of flex. FYI: all Goop (Marine, plumbing, ShoeGoo, etc.) products are the same, just different names and prices
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I feel your pain, that is a great blank. I broke one on a 906-3 last year but luckily Dan still had replacements.
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Jann's Netcraft sells a nice cork grip with 2 aluminum rings that is very light and would balance that rig nicely. I think it's only $10 or so.
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Maybe I'm just a lousy painter but I've never been happy with any paint job on a blank -sprayed or dipped, urethane, Permagloss or epoxy finish.There are always waves, drip or uneven areas. Also, I think you'll find that pretty soon it will chip and expose the blank color beneath your finish and white paint.
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These are fantastic reel seats for the money. They look like nickel and the wood and finish are beautiful. A great substitute for REC or Struble for $25!
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Finally, after sharing my horrible service experiences with the board, I can report a supplier who seems to get it. I've placed 5 orders or so to Jann's Netcraft via their web site on weekends and orders ship on Monday and I get them Weds. or so. Even a backorder showed in a few days. Granted, they are in Ohio and so am I, so the shipping distance isn't far but they are fast. Please patronize
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Try placing the reeleat and grip into boiling water for 20 minutes or so to soften the epoxy or rod bond and twist off with pliers. Or cut a groove with a straight edge razor (be careful not to cut into blank) and "peel" off grip like shucking corn.
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I have a 10 ft. Dan Craft Sig.V in a 7 wt. that is ideal for steelhead. Light enough to cast all day, strong enough to fight 30"+ fish. I'd use a double wells grip, fighting butt and woven graphite or PacBay channel lock reelseat, and I prefer snake guides, as they seem to ice up less.
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FYI: I just noticed that Cabela's has the Lamson Radius 3 (6-7-8 wt.) on sale for $99. This is a great deal for a reel that sells for $160+ and has a great drag.
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Any tips or special things I should know about shaping a burl cork grip (the diameter is too big) already installed on a rod? I normally use pre-done grips, so I don't build rings and shape them, so I'm in the dark here. I have a high speed motor and jig to turn the rod.
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I've never had any luck coming close to a factory finish when painting a blank myself- especially the clear topcoat (Permagloss, polyurethane, whatever). I always got runs lint etc.
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Another solution is to go to WalMart or another local discount retailer and buy a few $10-15 rods to experiment with. This won't give you a nice finished rod when you're done but it's nearby and cheap, plus you can learn about removing guides and grips too. Use a candle to heat the epoxy around the guide thread wraps and scrap it off with a straight edge razor. Heat up the tip, then twist it
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You can also just add 3-4 winds in front of the guide, then tie off and trim. The epoxy finish covers it up.
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Different feels and actions, both top quality. I find the SCIV my favorite blank for 3-6 wt.
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What about Orvis? Or FLy Logic?
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I use a Berz-o-matic propane torch to warm an area the length of the wrap, being careful to keep the flame moving, then do what Lou suggested above. If you're lucky it will all peel off.
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Cabela' s sells them in grey, black and green graphite with chrome or gunsmoke hoods. Go thier website
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I used the 4F9064 blank. 9 ft, 4-pc. It's Spruce Green and I used a blue green thread (the label pulled off, so I don't have the thread number for you), and titanium single foot guides (double foot strip guide). It feels like a 5 wt. but throws 6 wt. line best.
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In my opinion sealing the thread with CP has to make the connection weaker but it's not a problem because guides rarely "fall off". I've read many times on this board that the epoxy finish doesn't add strength to guide wraps but I don't believe it. In fact, I'd bet that you could use just epoxy to encasulate the guide feet and get a good bond. Of course, both thread and epoxy together a
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Try an artist's pen (the kind you dip into the ink bottle) and use metallic hobby paint instead of ink. The tips (called nibs) come in very thin sizes. Experiment on a scrap or where the handle will go to get the hang of how much ink you need on the nib per dip. Light roughing of the blank with a Scotchbrite pad makes the pen grab better. Gloss epoxy finish (Fleccoat, etc.) hides any scratches an
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Just built another rod with the St.Croix SCIV (a 9 ft., 4-pc., 6 wt.) and couldn't be happier. Smooth, light, responsive but not ultra fast. I find myself moving away from super fast rods these days (except in saltwater rods where it's windy) after having moved towards them for years. Great blank for $125, just as nice as Sage, Scott, Loomis.
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Scott, I'll qualify this opinion by saying I've never run a brick and mortar rodbuilding retail business but I would discourage you from commiting to a lease and a large inventory. You will get little walk-in business and the number of rods you will sell will likely not pay enough for you to break even, let alone a living. Do some quick math. Total up up your annual rent, phone, utilities,
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