the flaw looks like ink . thought maybe the finish was affecting the rubber butt I have used similar items and finishes w/o problems. the finish is a couple of yrs old
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never thought it might be the brush . will throw away get a new one and redo finish. thanks for input
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looks to be in finish. thread is a dark green and I use 2 coats of color preserver
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finishing a fly rod for daughter. the butt wrap looks ok until a black streak appears. have cut off wrap, cleaned with acetone and wrapped again twice the finish is a lite flex coat . should I try a new bottle of flexcoat , cut it off and try again? any idea what is the cause.
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I bought a thread which was to be a 396 but it was too brown when sealer was applied. ordered some guidebrod on line and hope it arrives soon so I can complete rod before leaving for Michigan on Saturday 10/11
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finishing a spey rod and ran out of brown thread with only 2 furrels to wrap. the thread I was using was labeled "dark brown " and had 2 different # . one number was #521 and another was 396 . when I applied sealer the thread is a lighter brown. Bought some Prowrap in a 396 and when I applied sealer it turned too dark. the pro wrap was to be close to guidebrod 396 but is a chocolate and
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I am looking at building a spey rod for salmon and steel head. considering a Mud Hole blank called MHX in either a 13'6" 8wt or a 14' 9 wt. the blank is I believe a dull gray. built another rod on a similar blank and did a black wrap with silver trim. which weight rod blank do you suggest and do you have any suggestions for wrap and trim
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Trondike makes a u40 ferrule lube but I cant find a dealer. can it be ordered from Trondike directly?
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recently had a cork ring on a grip come loose. repaired by injecting zap a gap into a small seam and covered with wood filler and then sanded with 400 grit sand paper. the ring is no longer loose but the crack and the wood putty is a different shade than cork grip,slightly lighter. is there a way of matching the colors or should I just leave well enough alone.
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I thought of using a male section to open the crack after removing the thread wrap but never thought of using parafin to keep sections from being glued. I thought of the q tip to remove any zap a gap that got inside of the female. I didnt want to go that route cause I didnt have the proper thread color but when I return from Florida I will order the thread and do as you suggested. thanks for inpu
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some one else suggested the duct tape or electrical tape on the joints as you said. will do so especially on spey and switch rods and again will eliminate wax on male section. the mention of u40 liquid ferrel lub would wd40 keep the sections from binding.or is that counter productive since you said you want the parts to wear together for a better fit
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when seating sections I rotate male section while alligning to insure fully seated.
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I have often used a lite coat of canning wax then rub off with fingers or if no wax I rub male section over nose to apply some lub. Is this a no-no
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I bought a returned spey rod from Cabelas and after a few tries at spey casting I noticed a small crack on a female furrel just 2 sections above the butt section.rather than rewrap I applied some zap a gap and applied another coat of finish. the crack still is visible but I believe the zap a gap and finish will do. should I rewrap after gluing or as someone said cut off the crack and rewrap. paid
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thanks to all who replied. I believe the imperfections are dust as we have 20+ mph winds here and the dust is through out my tying room though not seen. will wait till tomorrow and lightly sand with an emory board to eliminate defects then aply second coat LIGHTLY and hope it works.
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I have noticed some imperfections in the butt wrap finish using flex coat lite. can the first finish be lightly sanded with fine emery board then apply a second coat?
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settled on a brown thread with a tan trim wrap. the blank is a glossy dark green and the brown and tan look good w/o being flashy.
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I notice a few "high spots on my wraps especially on butt wrap and one of the stripping guides. can I carefully use a razor blade to trim these down before the 2nd coat .apparently dust or maybe unnoticed thread tags that I failed to notice when burning frizzies
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before applying the finish I want to remove all residue from masking tape and china markers. Is it safe to rub alcohol to remove china markers and tape residue
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does any of the members know who makes the Hook and hackle XI fly rod blanks
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I have an 8wt rod that I noticed a smal hairline crack at the female furrell @ 3/16 long. I put some epoxy on it and rewrapped. will this hold or should I simply rebuild another rod to replace.
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have built a rod with garnet and silver and like. also uk blue for Daughter.(would not bring one to my house) and a dark green on a green blank. Midas gold is almost copper I believe. will try several colors on an old blank and let you know. thanks for help.
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I am building a 10' 6 wt fly rod on a MHX blank and would like some advice on possible thread colors. ordered pro wrap midas gold#704 and want a silver or contrasting trim wrap. might consider a non matalic trim of a contrasting thread. any ideas?
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believe it was an earlier IV by Dan Craft. nice rod and hope to replace tip section. I do not know who makes Dan Craft rods but they are great and the service is also.
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I broke my favorite rod a 9'6" rod made by Dan Craft and is no longer available. would like a 9'6" or 10 ft 6 wt of medium fast action to build. looking at st. croix or rainshadow. any comments or suggestions appreciated.thanks
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going to build rainshadow switch rod and like idea of tan wrap on the blank with orange or old gold as trim. blank is matt gray trying to avoid matalic trim if possible cause it often bleeds thru wrap any help appreciated
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if used as an overhead rod is it rated medium fast. I built a 10ft sciv 8wt by st croix and liked the action but found the finish a little soft. I also am looking at 11ft tfo switch.I will use for steelhead and salt water overhead for reds and seatrout and such.
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Broke the tip on my 10ft 8wt rod landing a salmon. thought I would build a switch rod and Iam looking at a rainshadow 10ft 6" 8wt for steehead and saltwater fishing. anyone built one?
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will build a matt clear (gray) blank and want something different in color. looking at tan with goldenrod trim or the other way around .will this be too bright or gaudy?any other suggestions on color combinations.
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want to compare deer creek switch rod (tfo I believe) with rainshadow for performance. also st croix 11' 8 wt sciv/scll
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