Guys, He has one male ferrule that fits perfectly. Any suggestion to alter the female is a non-starter for this situation. His best bets, as John Channer has said, is either to let the maker effect the repair, or send it to Dave LeClair for him to plate the male ferrule and re-lap it. Mark
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Mike, Next time, rather than using TruOil, try using a Teak Oil finish. You can get this at places like WoodCraft. Teak Oil finish is specially designed to work with oily woods. Mark
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Robert, Boiling shouldn't really affect bamboo all that much. 212º is quite a bit below the 350 - 360º temps we use to heat treat the cane before we final plane and glue up. In fact, since I use Epon as my adhesive for my rods, I heat cure the sections after glue up for two hours at 200º Fahrenheit. So, I would venture to say that the temperatures reached by boiling water would not har
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Tim, SIlk will go transparent when you apply the varnish, unless you use some kind of color preserver first. You will need multiple coats of varnish on the wraps. I typically put two coats of thinned varnish on the wraps first (I like the transparent look) then anywhere between 5 - 7 coats of slightly thinned varnish on top. You'll have to sand the varnish between coats once the varnish has
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Andy, Also, there is the Bamboo Rodmakers Listserv that you can join, with a bunch of talented folks willing to help a new guys out. Here's the web site where you can sign up for the list: Mark
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Steve, I've been purchasing Pearsalls, both Gossamer and Naples from Russ at Golden Witch. I don't use CP much, since I prefer the transparent look on the cane rods I make, however, on a few repairs/restorations that I've done, I have used CP and I've not noticed any fading of the colors. Depending on the final color match that I'm trying to get, I use model airplane dope, or one of th
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If you guys are having trouble with fuzzies on silk there, it's usually one of two problems. First, it could be the thread itself. SIlk threads like Gudebrod are made up from very short segments of silk, and the short segments tend to stick up and cause the fuzzies. Other silks like Pearsalls are made from much longer strands, and the chances of having fuzzies with them are just about nil. Th
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Ron, I've used Helmsman spar on quite a few rods in my drip tube, and have had pretty good luck with it. I've also used Interlux Schooner in the past, and it's worked well too. You can get that stuff from your local Boater's World if you have one near by, or from most marine stores. I've gotten a hold of a can of Last and Last, and have yet to try it. Mark
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H-I rods used step down ferrules. Paul, if you know what model the rod is, talk to the folks at Golden Witch, they should have a set of step downs that will work for you. Rick is another good supplier too.
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Buddy, It kind of depends on what type of ferrules the maker used. There are two main types - a step down ferrule, and a Super Z style ferrule. It's pretty easy to tell the difference between the two. The Super Z style female ferrule will have a distinct swelling about 1/3 of the way up from the tabs, and the male slide will have the same diameter the entire length of the slide portion.
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If they are old rods, they most probably used step down ferrules as Larry mentioned. Very few of the older rod makers, like Garrison, used the Super Z style ferrule. What, if any, names are on the rods? Mark
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Walter, If you're looking for solid nickle silver rod in sizes from 1/16" to 5/16" in diameter, in 6" or 12" lengths, with quantity discounts, check out Sheffield Kifemakers Supply out of Florida. Here's their web site: . I've been buying from them for quite a while, and have gotten great service from them. Mark
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Mike, If the varnish is still in pretty good shape, but has lost it's luster, head down to your local auto body repair supply store and pick up a bottle of 3M Finesse-it II. It's a polish the the auto body guys use to get a really nice finish on the base coat/clear coat paint systems, but it works really well on the varnish and polyurethane finishes we use on cane rods. I use it on just ab
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Ralph, The times I've used rottenstone on the finish of my rods, I've made a slurry using danish oil. Mix in the rottenstone till the consistency is like sloppy paste. A soft cotton cloth is what I normally use when rubbing out the finish with the rottenstone/danish oil mix. And yes, it does take a bit of elbow grease. Mark
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Okay, I think I get what you're saying. A reply to a topic doesn't bump the topic up to the top then, just a new topic goes to the top, correct? Mark
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Another oddity I've seen lately is in the way the postings show up when I log into the site. I view all the postings in the flat view, and normally expect to see them in chronoligical order. But lately, I've seen the topics show up somewhat out of date order, with more recent posts sometimes after older posts. Is one of my settings messed up somewhere? Thanks, Mark
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Andy, I've been using CitriStrip for a couple of years now when I want to get down to the 'boo. I spread it on with a brush, and use a plastic bondo scraper to remove the finish/CitriStrip, rather than a hard scraper. I've never damaged cane using this method, and if you're careful around the wraps, you can preserve the original warps rather easily with this method. I've got a South Bend
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Ed, Some of us are still using silk thread... ;-) Mark
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Eric, It's called Jasper thread, and the black and white variations are part of the thread itself. Goldenwitch has an example of black and orange jasper on their web site. Mark
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Mark, Try this place: . I've bought most of my nickle silver bar stock from them in the past. There's another place on line that will be carrying the same and bigger sizes in the near future: . I sent them an email not too long ago asking them if they were going to carry the NS rod and tubing, since they already carry the NS sheet, and they said they were planning on carrying it in the n
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To piggy back on Don's post, about a year ago I did a restoration on a realllllly old Varney cane rod, which had many intermediate wraps along with the typical guide wraps. Some were missing, and some deteriorated to the point the guides were practically falling off the rod. I sent Russ a sample of the thread that was on the rod, and he sent me back a spool that matched the existing threads alm
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Tom, Heresy! ;-) " I have a feeling he feels he put the seat on opposite the spine location he wanted. Rather than cut the seat off, I'd just build it and use it. It won't make that much difference. In fact, I doubt you'll be able to readily tell the difference." The side of the spine the guides are located on not making a difference? My world has been turned upside down...
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