Mike, ERN = Effective Rod Number; essentially the 'rod weight'. The "Common Sense Info" link is the upper left corner of the page will take you to a website that explains the whole concept/system in great detail. Good Luck Mike
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Mike, St Croix has 7'6" 2 weights in both their Avid and Ultra series. If a 7'9" will work the have 3 weight rods in those series also. One of my personal rods is the Avid 2 weight 7'6" . It preforms well on the small Rocky Mountain streams that I made it for. However, if I were to do it again I'd would build it with an Ultra series blank. I feel that the Ultra blanks are one of
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Thanks for the leads on the Delrin. With a little 'Google work' I found a place in Portland, WA (Plastic Machine Company), that sells Delrin 'collars for $13.53 each in lots 1-5. They are now looking into the cost of cutting back pieces and plungers. I'll post the results if they come up with something. About breaking the saw blades, I guess I've just been luck, but I the first time that I us
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Has anybody that is using the new Doug Weber cork cutting jugs (from CTS) found a good source (or substitute) for the Derlin jigs that Doug outlines in his instructions? I've got a method that I have been using for years and it works pretty well. However, Doug's idea of using a Derlin jig that will allow the glue (Titebond III) to be easily scrapped off as well as avoiding the the metal reaction
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The Oct 2007 edition of Consumer Reports ran an article rating "household glues". It rated Elmer's ProBond interior/exterior Wood Glue and Titebond III as "best for wood applications". That started me thinking about a problem that I have with Titebond III. I've used Titebond III for my cork work since it came out, but it is tough on mandrels (even with a paraffin coat on them)
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Adam, Check out Classic Custom Wood (one of the sponsors).
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About 4 years ago I bought 1/4, 3/8 1nd 1/2" ball bearings at Lowes. After running many test batches with them, I settled on using a 1/4" bearing (which gets the edges of the cup very well) along with a 1/2" (to do most of the mixing). Peroidcally I still let the remaining expoxy sit in the mixing cup for a few days and pop it out to make sure the batch got completely mixed. It
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Like Arron, I have a resident Montana/Winston bias. Having disclosed that , I have to say that everyone that I know that has one really really likes it. Many of the people that I know that use them are self admitted Winston snobs, but they are also guides and people with 30+ years of fly fishing. Last week I got to fish with a 9' 3 weight IIx loaner, very nice rod. Where the Winston people took a
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Lowe's sells them.
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Antti, Hang in there, Dan will help you out. E-mail or call him directly (in case he hasn't seen this post). In the past Dan has even offered to remove the label before he sends the blanks to me. The' label' is actually lasered in, so removing it involves abrasives not chemicals.
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Tom is right, use any feather you like. I've even built rods that incorperated feathers from birds the customer shot and their dog retreived, pretty special touch on a rod! Russ' article did give some good advise on handling 'wild' feathers.
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That is the way I build all my rods. I even use that method for putting the feather alignment marks at the ferrules. The second coat of lite FC Lite is sufficent to cover the feather and give me a smooth finish. As Bill suggested, I use a coat of CP (811) over the feathers before putting the FC Lite on.
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Alex, The Winston people told me that they just put the boron in the lower part of the rods (lower 1/3-1/4) that is what gives their new 'boron' rods the unique feel (the traditional Winston soft tip with some additional power). I haven't fished with one, only cast them, but the people that I know around here (MT) who make a living using fly rods really like them. The rod seem to deliver on it
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Alex, The Winston people told me that they just put the boron in the lower part of the rods (lower 1/3-1/4) that is what gives their new 'boron' rods the unique feel (the traditional Winston soft tip with some additional power). I haven't fished with one, only cast them, but the people that I know around here (MT) who make a living using fly rods really like them. The rod seem to deliver on it
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Mike, I haven't use them myself, I've been waiting to see how they stood the test of time. However, yesterday I talked to repair people at one of the major rod companys and they told me that they have stopped making their 'new flagship' boron rods out of them (they are going to use light wire instead). I ask them if it was because they didn't preform as expected, or if they popped out of the w
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I'm just putting the finishing touches on rod built with a Rainforest II blank and I noticed some scratches in the finish. Any suggestion on how I might 'buff' them out? They are in places that would look odd to cover with additional wraps.
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