Thanks Spencer! Just to clarify, you use no glue for hood to recess contact?
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When building fly rods, do you guys add glue to your cork recess before you slide your reel seat into it? I always have done this and hated the clean up afterwards. Glue usually gets pushed out and the reel seats I use have little groves designed into the lip that covers the recess hole so glue will find its way in between the tiny groves. It seems no matter how much cleaning with alcohol, I cant
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Interesting. Thanks for that!
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Thanks for that! Could you measure the recess without that metal trim in it? I’m curious how a 25mm hood would fit anywhere in that.
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Thanks for the response Spencer. I’m going to disagree though, because if you zoom in on some of the photos you can see a metal ring for the recess. So that side of the grip doesn’t appear to be Eva foam.
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Was looking at these grips and saw that they accommodate reel seats ranging from 21 mm to 25 mm. Has anyone used these? I know it may be a dumb question but im assuming the recessed cut out measures at 25 mm so if my reel seat hood measures at 21mm do I just shim the hood for a snug fit? I was just concerned with there being some visible gaps with my reel seat and the recessed cut out that wo
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Post some photos of it!
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I like proof fly fishing seats. They also don’t cost an arm or a leg either. Lemke makes really nice seats too.
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If you guys click on my profile and scroll to my first post Aleks gave a good explanation on why experiences like this may happen.(I too was frustrated with them at one point and vented on here as I saw it as a more direct way to contact Aleks.) It’s not to excuse a company if they are providing bad customer service (which isn’t the case with NFC either.) but it may allow you to give them some gr
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I used single foot guides (asides from stripping guides) on a 10wt I recently did. Size a worked just fine for me and will certainly hold up.
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I built a medium light one. I like it especially for the river I fish by where I live
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Thanks everyone!
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Hey everyone, Are the walls of my recessed hood on my cork ring too thin? This is a full wells grip that will be on an 8wt rod (if any of that matters) I didn’t intend on going that thin but I had some voids in the cork that were causing cracks to splinter off the ends of them in the hood so I just sanded it down a little further than originally planned. I actually like how it looks but di
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What method do you like to use to inlet your cork grips?
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Alex, > I suspect that the cork you call junk can actually > be used to make some really great grips. > > 1. Do NOT use a stanley planer. Simply put, it > is too easy to go too deep and thus pock mark the > surface of the finished grip. > > 2. Rather just start with 80 grit sa
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Ron Weber Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I prefer do do it after turning on cork or eva, > before on wood What method do you like to use to inlet after shaping?
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Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Afterward for both wood and cork. What method do you guys use to inlet after shaping?
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Ron Weber Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I prefer do do it after turning on cork or eva, > before on wood Thanks for the input Ron!
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Hi everyone, Those of you who make your fly grips on a separate mandrel, if you’re needing to do a recessed hood, do you prefer to recess before shaping or after shaping and why? So far I’ve done both and I’m not sure which way I like better and was just trying to learn from anyone else’s experience.
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I’m deep in the trenches with learning to turn cork and as some of you may know and can relate, I have a lot of bad grips. What can I do with probably 100 rings worth of grips that are rejects? I’m trying to find a silver lining here to my frustration and didn’t know if I could possibly salvage these into something useful so I feel better about throwing away money haha.
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Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Alex purvis Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: > > > -------------------------------------------------- > > > ----- > > > Hobby Lobby or Michaels. You can also use > > Testers > > >
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Lance Schreckenbach Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hobby Lobby or Michaels. You can also use Testers > model paint. Let it settle for a few days then > drain the clear thinner that is on top and keep > the concentrated pigment. Use a little to make it > translucent. > > r-resin-color-changing-glitter/10647528.html > > ding-S
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Hey guys, I’m wanting to be able to put an iridescent finish on my rod where I put the label. Something that is translucent but reflects in light like oil slick in water. Does anyone have any recommendations?
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Gary, What rod that you designed was/is your all time favorite?
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Can you guys view this video and tell me if my fighting butt is looking lopsided or uneven or just not right? I don’t know if I’m being hypercritical or am just psyching myself out but I swear something looks off when I do fighting butts. Don’t hold back. I don’t want to roll with something that looks off. This is my third fighting butt I’ve done and on all of them I feel like something is jus
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I am on vacation right now and walked into a fly shop today and was looking at a bunch of rods in the $900 to $1200 price range (not to buy, just looking). I’m not going to name any names but all rods were from major us companies and I was inspecting the wraps and epoxy work on these rods just to see how my stuff compared to $1000 rods. I get it’s purely cosmetic but most of the rods I handled we
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But what about their pure graphite??? “The advanced, leading-edge material behind R8 enables us to shape a rod with a stiffer, stronger backbone but a more sensitive tip and more connected feel. The secret is twofold. First, a proprietary aerospace composite with a greater hoop strength enables us to dimensionally grow taper diameter more quickly from the tip—while a nano-sintered resin applic
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > When you have to make a grip with a large inside > bore, do the bore first, prior to the gluing up > the rings. Then use a larger mandrel to mount them > on. > > Doing it this way leaves only a very small amount > of reaming left to be done. Just enough to match > the blank taper, which
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Steve, I thought of doing it this way as well. What size mandrel do you have? What do you use to arbor the mandrel? I have read a lot about people chucking their rod in the lathe but I have two issues with that at the moment: first, my lathe is very small. Second, I’m too chicken to chuck my rod blank in anything at the moment lol
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Very interesting thoughts here. One thing I will say, I think I like the way 1/4” rings age more than 1/2” rings over time. They have more character.
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