I recently ordered 3 of these blanks specifically for the same purpose. Sometimes you just have to take a chance. A few of my predicted choices in the past have been misses, but, surprisingly, someone always comes forward and asks to have a rod made with those "rejects". There is always a purpose for a blank, even if what you originally got it for didn't work out. Curiosity is kill
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If you go to rodhouse.fr, they have more complete specs on NFC blanks. Been very helpful for me when some of the info on NFC’s site has been incomplete.
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Patrick Coco Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > phil sweeney Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Interesting. New to me is federal excise tax. > $35 > > flat rate. $52 blank will cost me 100 bucks. > > Over $75 is free shipping. So 2 of the APFG cost > $125 … and getting that extra bla
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I use the VSS 16 almost exclusively for my spinning builds. Some may feel its thin, but its a personal preference. I find that i have a quicker "swing speed" (terminology from golf) when my hand is gripping something on the thinner side as opposed to a thicker grip like the VSS17 or the IPS16. Being able to hold my rod in my finger tips (I feel) helps with quicker hook sets, easier c
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Chris: I'm not sure how you accomplish the leader knot to be outside the tip top. That would leave a very short leader, maybe just a couple of inches? The tag end of my line and lure is only 4-5 inches at the start of a cast (maybe 12-15" when drop shotting). I was taught to use a leader of double the length of the rod, so I'm using a 14ft leader. This is for smallmouth fishing so the
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I think it’ll be a challenge going light, using fiberglass. I went through the fiberglass stage with spinnerbaits and crank baits, but went back, preferring lighter, and surprisingly, more sensitive. It’s surprising how subtle strikes can be on a moving bait (remember Doug Hannon’s classic video of a bass completely inhaling a crank bait and spitting it out without the fisherman ever knowing?).
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David: The Sustain is a good reel, and I think you’ll be happy with it. It is definitely an upgrade to the Vanford. If that is the price point you’re in, in the future, might I suggest the JDM Daiwa Airity, or the Daiwa Certate? The Sustain, depending on your state taxes, is a $342 reel with tax (and a good one at that). You could get the JDM versions (I like that because of the vast spool o
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I’m not sure if the spool angle you guys are referring to is the angle of the spool axis as compared to the rod blank. If so, I have noticed that pretty much all my spinning reels appear to have similar angles, except for my ‘22 Exists. They seem to be noticeable sharper (angled upward). This seemed odd as it doesn’t look like the angle matched up to the reduction path, BUT the Exist is the sm
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This is what I found fits that reel seat best, with no gaps in the finger cut out. The smooth tubes seems to expose gaps in the uneven cut out. I’m not sure I’m a fan of the reel seat. I found it a little crude in finish (there were some void imperfections in the threaded barrel of mine and the cut out was a little uneven). The lock nut provided is a Fuji knock off, so the diameter (OD) o
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Sounds like you got a good blank. The weight of the recent NFC 7108 X-Ray I got weighed 3 oz. I would have liked to have found a lighter blank, but the 7108 is definitely more powerful than what the listed lure rating would insinuate.
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I thought about going to the MB7109, but the MB7108 I already had was way stiffer than the stated lure range. I was using that rod for heavy weight Carolina rigging (throwing 1 oz weight + leader and bait), and thought it could be a little softer to be better (hence how I came up with trying another one for punching). The power of the MB7108 seems fine for 1 1/4 & 1 1/2 oz punch weights, bu
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I recently built some on the NFC X-ray MB7108.
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Just saying. There is a specific purpose for rod builders to build specific ways. I’m considering this rod for deep cranking use. There is a specific reason why the people I build for and myself would absolutely want it as light as possible. Not sure of why you’re criticizing how some rodbuilders are choosing their priorities. I never said anyone had it any easier, just pointed out why WE wer
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Tournament fisherman. We make a LOT of casts in a day, and several days in a row. Weight makes a lot of difference for some of us.
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It’s got fiberglass, that’s usually heavier. Thanks for the reference regarding the regular MB765. This might be a little more weight than what I was hoping for.
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Could someone from NFC post posy the blank weight of the new Stinger NEO blank (MB765 X-ray NEO)? Are other lengths planned? Thanks!
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Ken Delbridge Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I still think people overlook the MB734 HM and > MB735 HM for finesse jig/bottom fishing for bass, > I love those blanks. They aren't for fishing > heavy cover/trees, but for open water structure > fishing? Amazing blanks that cast light baits > superbly. > > Confusion on NFC ratings
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Rick Handrick Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks John - very helpful! Am I reading your > post correctly - the 703 is actually lighter in > power than the 732? Yes, mostly because of the backbone difference. I use the SJ703 for Great Lakes smallmouth. It has no issues casting a drop shot weight of 5/8oz. with a plastic bait, nor any issues
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Some colleges (at least ours is) are sticklers on their trademarks.
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I got the SJ732 blank but chose not to use it. I believe mine weighed 2.18 ounces (deal breaker for me). My SJ703's (X-rays) have consistently weighed 1.28 oz. (mirror polished version). The C6O2's I got have come out to the same weight. The SJ 732 has considerable more backbone, almost too much for my preferences. All the bend is just in the tip, I question how well it would throw an 1/8 oz
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If you happened to get get the blank weight of the MB733, I'd love that info. Thanks!
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I think the NRX+ 852S was around 3.5 oz. I like my NFC SJ703 better and have gotten that down to 2.56oz., but most have fallen between 2.7oz. to 2.8oz. There was a thread on the Tackletour forum where people chimed in with their store bought rod weights. Not many store rods out there were sub 4oz.
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That NFC carbon reel seat is incredibly light…but it is also really hollow on the inside and if those voids are filled with epoxy, this seat will no longer lighter, probably even heavier than a fitted/reamed to fit reel seat. I got one to try, but I don’t think I’ll ever use it. The cavities are so hollow, that I believe you would have to add a lot of epoxy to get a good adhesion. I also see a
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Don’t forget the overall weight of the NRX+ 852s. You won’t have a chance to match or beat the weight of the NRX unless you stick with blanks that weigh 1.6oz or less. I haven’t found any MB blanks that fit that lightness.
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A lot might depend on what you’re building spinning for. I build spinning mostly for big smallmouth. Using med or medium light builds, you need the handle to be able to brace against your forearm for leverage when you have a big one on. FUNCTIONALLY, I want the handle long enough that the butt rests on the meaty part of my forearm, which ends up making the end of the butt about an inch and a h
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I saw a video of Trey Kistler testing his blanks before build. He was literally bending them over double (actual u-bend of the blank near the tip where the flex allows), and checks that load 360 degrees all the way around. I could never get myself to stress them that much, but I’ll flex mine as much as it ever will as it would during a fishing situation. Only one broke for me so far (out of a
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Colorfast ProWrap #831.
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There was a ProWrap ncp thread I got that was an exact color match, and the reason I didn’t use it. I’d have to check the color name when I get home. There is a little more contrast after the epoxy is applied and looked at in the sun though. Bare thread is the exact same color as the sanded X-ray blank from NFC though.
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The ones in the red tubes seem softer (when cooled down) than the typical stick. They both seem to work fine. I carry the red one in the boat for emergencies.
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I use a 12” Dewalt miter saw, 80 tooth fine blade. I can’t get a clean cut trying to do it by hand. You would have to shim the seat to keep it level. Same setup also does a good job getting straight cuts on graphite tubes, inserts, and blanks. I cut all my seats, unless I’m using a foregrip.
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