Donald, Metallic thread can be a little difficult to work with at times. It sounds like the "tie off end" may not be long enough, or you are not making enough wraps to seal it off. Also, when you burnish, do so in the direction of the wrap and not away from it. Going against the wrap may be pulling the thread out. There are several "You Tube" videos dealing with finishi
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Try standing the rod up, take whatever tool you wish to use (needle, toothpick, brush, etc) apply the finish to the guide. This will allow the finish to seep under the guide tunnel. Keep the rod standing for a minute or so and then put the rod back onto your machine and apply the rest of the finish. Whatever method works best for you.
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Michael, I'm right there with you and also using an android phone.
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Dennis. Rule of thumb is whatever you want it to be. I started building rods in the 1970's. Back then I wanted longer wraps to "decorate" them. Remember, the longer the wraps = more thread, CP and epoxy, = more weight you are adding to the rod. Over the years since I have gone to shorter wraps (personal preference). You can still add decorative details with thread on those as w
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I have used several different epoxy's throughout the years. They all have been good and generally not hard to work with, however, I really like the Gen 4 products. I've used the High Build and the Light Build. I've even put a cote of Light Build over 2 coats of High Build to see how it would work and it worked great, without any issues. Over kill? possibly, but wanted to experiment. The Gen
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A couple options. Discard the decal and hand print the info you want on the rod, or order a custom decal from Decal Connection, which I've used in the past.
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Thanks Dan, I appreciate the input...
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I have talked with the company and they will not sell any parts to the public. The owner of the rods does not want the expense of sending them back to the company as the guides were broken accidentally, not a defect. I'll order other guides as Peter suggested. Thanks everyone.
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Thanks Peter. I had the same thought of replacing with something suitable, but wanted to try and replace with the same ones. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
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A friend has 2 identical Diawa Tatula Elite 7' 6" rods that have AGS carbon fiber (I believe) guides. Both rods have the same broken guides (I haven't asked). The reduction guides beyond the butt guides. The butt guides are 25mm, so I'm assuming the broken ones are 16mm, as the 3rd guide from the butt is a 12mm. I've checked a couple of web sites for those guides with nil results. Doe
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John. Get a set of calipers that measure both mm and inches. Those will give you exact measurements for inside, outside, height, length and thickness, not only of guides, but for a lot of other uses in rod building. Simply, they come in handy for all kinds of things.
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Welcome Chris. Be careful, It's addictive. However, it's a very good addiction. My motto is "NEVER GIVE UP"
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Mark. I always want the ability to move the guides slightly before applying the epoxy. This gives me the chance to reposition them after wrapping for the final alignment. The epoxy will "cement" them in place. Congrats on the "beginning" of a great hobby.
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Stan, Since he has been inspired by the Cub Scouts, use their colors as Roger suggested.
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Bob, Beautiful rod and story, thank you. Some addictions are "wonderful". T Bain Benton, Ar 'NEVER GIVE UP"
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Ernie, Not a "mistake", just a learning experience. We've all had them and you know what, we'll continue to have "learning experiences". Thanks for being "transparent".
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My hat's off to you for your kindness to our nations true hero's. Thank you both.
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Tyler. Happy New Year. There is a Blank Extension tool that Mudhole and probably other manufacturers have, that may help you. Take a look at it and see if it will help. I know it has helped me in the past. I've made my own from a broken rod section, using that as the extension tool. I used masking tape to build up the arbor to fit into the rubber grommet. Hope this helps.
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As the old saying goes, "beauty is in the eye of the beholder". What looks bad to you may look great to me and vice versa. I would suggest you to make a "color stick" with a dark colored blank section with different color nylon threads and NOCP threads, one with CP and one without and apply epoxy to both. This should answer your question and also give you a future reference
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Hello Brian. welcome to our forum. You will gain a wealth of knowledge on rod building. Keep on working.
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Jim, From one West Virginian (Madison ) to another, I'm sorry to hear about your loss. It sounds like your Dad was quiet a craftsman. A wealth of knowledge has been lost. I wish you well and wish I was still in WV to come see your Dad's treasures, but Arkansas is a little ways off. Good luck in selling. tmbain@sbcgloba

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I would try cutting the guides off first, before using heat, by taking a sharp razor blade to cut the threads off the guide foot then lifting off the guide. I generally start cutting the threads by cutting along the sides (tunnel) of the guide foot. This system works fine for me.
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Guys thank you so much for your input and set up information. You've made me a believer, now I need to pass this on to the customer. I'll try one on for size for myself, especially a 2 piece.
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Good morning. I have a customer inquiring about a Bushiro blank. It is 6' 8", fast action, medium/light power. I have never used this brand and was wondering if anyone has. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thank you.
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Tom. Click on the FAQs at the top and go to question #19. That is a good way, but be careful and not use to much heat, because you don't want to damage the blank. If it's done properly it will be hard to tell what you've done. Take your time. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.
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William. No matter how hard you try you're going to get some cement on the insert that will show in the opening. Have a cleaning rag with denatured alcohol handy. It should wipe off very easily for you, then let it set up. Keep an eye on it from time to time to make sure nothing else has seeped out, especially if you use glue instead of paste. If you lay the rod horizontally for everything t
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Amen to that. Be safe. May this be the year of everyone's best build ever.
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Kendall. I have never had any issues like that from Get Bit. Any time I've had to call them, they have been extremely polite and helpful. Hopefully this is an isolated incident. I do know that the USPS has had some issues with items lying around in transfers centers, which infuriates me and is no fault of the distributor. Hopefully, you will get it quickly.
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Mike, A lot depends on the size of the under wrap thread. Not knowing what size you used, it's always a good idea to use size A for the under wrap and pack it tightly as you wrap. A larger size, say size D, is not a good choice, unless you're using the same size for top and bottom threads. Size A thread will generally go between the size D thread because it's a smaller diameter thread. Anytim
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Bill, If you haven't freed them up by the time you read this, try removing the other sections that are not stuck and then soak the stuck sections in a tub of ice water. I'd keep the grip/reel section from soaking in the ice water though. Nothing ventured, nothing gained...
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