Herb - Let's talk later this week. If I flipped the up-locking around could I add a fighting butt? I'll also check with Ryan and REC to see how I can do that with the ABGS reel seat (I know those fit my reels)
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Hi all! I am about to start my next build. It will be a CTS 10'6" 3wt Euro Nymphing rod. I built the 10' version a couple of years ago and will essentially repeat the same but the 10'6" Euro Nymphing series (FY) has a slightly softer tip section. My 10' 3wt has an REC up-locking reel seat with a fixed fighting butt. The reason I went with an up-locking reel seat is due to the REC d
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I did the static test and used the Proof Fly Rod 3 wt 10’ as a starting point with a few adjustments on the lower guides 10 & 11 to redistribute the load. So far everything looks good.
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David - yes I’ll look at the ESN guide spacing. Thanks
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Phil - overall I agree. Just odd seeing more guides in section 3 than 2.
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Don - it seems for euro nymph rods 12 guides is not unusual. I will definitely adjust the final position. Phil - for euro nymphing you really don’t do a cast it’s more of a flip of the line that you have out which is 20-25 feet. Thanks
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I'm starting a build of a 10' 3wt CTS Affinity X (thanks to Herb for turning me on to CTS!) with 12 guides including the striper. I was using a guide placement calculated from Jim Cooper (thanks Jim!) to get me started in the rough placement and then fine tune from there. My question is when I set up the guides using Jim's spreadsheet, it puts 5 guides in section 1 (top), then 3 guides in secti
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It looks like with a little reaming with the rat file and I only need an arbor of .75mm at the back of the grip. I was going to try a 1/2” wide mesh fiber tape about a 1/2” from the back of the grip. That should keep the grip centered and allow the epoxy to dam a little.
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I’m building a 3wt CTS rod. The taper on the butt section is very gradual. My reamer is a little more normal taper. When I ream to match the back end of the grip the front is too tight. If I continue to ream to allow the grip to slip further down the blank the back end will have a larger inner diameter than the blank. My thought was to add a tape arbor to keep the grip centered. Does that make s
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I'm getting ready to build my next fly rod. I'm looking to build something in a 3wt 7'6" - 8'6" range with a medium flex for smaller streams for dry fly and small nymphs. I'm trying to decide between "top of the line" (Sage LL, Winston Pure) or a medium priced blank from CTS (Affinity M), TFO or maybe even NFC. One problem is casting before I purchase. I can probably get m
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Roger - a few questions. Is there a specific brand of acrylic ink you found to work better? I was going to order some Speedball waterproof in white. Do you prep the quill by polishing the tip on a wood surface or similar? Do you spray over the acrylic then apply epoxy? And, do you write directly on the blank or put down a layer of epoxy first? I put down the first layer of epoxy on the f
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Roger - that’s the speedball pen set I’ve been using with Testors enamel. I’ve used the extra fine quills with ok success. Maybe the acrylic will work better and give me a finer line. I’ll order some of the acrylic ink. Thanks
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Thanks Bob. I might just leave things alone. For the next build I’m looking at a radiograph pen or open to other suggestions. I’d prefer hand inscription vs decals as it gives a more personal feel.
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I did an inscription on my blank and while it’s not bad looking I think I might replace it with acrylic paint. My thought was to soak a piece of paper towel in DNA and lay it over the inscription. The enamel has dried for about 72 hours. Thoughts?
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From what I am hearing (CDC) the virus has a fairly short life span when not on a host (human/animal). Shipping generally takes several days and if via air can be sent in a non-climate controlled compartment. The risk is very low of transmitting the virus through normal packaging. However to be extra safe, I would definitely wipe things down with alcohol. I used a grocery curbside pickup last
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Good news... I applied the 3rd coat of epoxy last night after do another round of cleanup of any remaining tag ends. The wraps look much better. I need to apply epoxy on the bottom two sections tonight so hopefully by the weekend this build will be done.
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Robert - I've tried that and it seems I always get a little tail end. I'll play around with that some more to see if I can perfect my method.
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Roger - I was playing around on a spare blank with your method of pulling harder on the tag end and snipping with scissors (DR Slick midge scissors) and it worked much better than when I used a razor or scalpel. A little light burnishing and under a magnifier I could not see any nibs or wisps of thread. This morning I inspected the results of the second coat on the fly blank I'm currently worki
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Roger - I’ll give the scissors a try. I am probably not pulling the thread enough to have it pull back into the over wrap.
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I delicately cleaned up the nubs. But as I was applying the second coat of epoxy I found a few more ????. I’ll let the second coat dry and clean things up and then apply a very light third coat. Good thing is I’m applying light coats for a slow build. In my previous builds I’ve not had as many issues with nubs. I’m wondering if it’s the thread or how I singed the cutoffs. Thanks
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I’ll try that. I did pick up a scalpel for this build which I like much better than razor blades. Incredibly sharp.
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I just finished my first light coat of epoxy this morning. This afternoon I was checking the epoxy and notice a few guides have tiny nubs of thread. I singed the thread tag ends and did light burnishing as well as made sure no dust was on the wrap before I applied the first coat. So at this point should I try and sand them down or go with the second coat? I don’t have a power wrapper so sandi
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I was putting the thread to center and take up some space but not bind on the blank. I have a size smaller that I could use and put a wrap and trim in front. Using the smaller size will work. But was experimenting with an underwrap. Thanks
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Quick question.... I’m installing a nickel winding check with a thread underwrap. I was thinking of putting a light coat of epoxy on the thread before I install the winding check. Then after I install the winding check do a finish coat of epoxy on the thread. Does that make sense? Any other suggestions? Thanks
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Herb - the half size was too small. I loaded up the hot glue and it seems to fit ok. Thanks
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