A fading blue pattern to match a blue acrylic reel seat spacer for my drum rod.
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first closed wrap using taper offset layout
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My first Maltese cross wrap in my school colors
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Don, The info you have provided is extremely helpful and I have been debating back and forth between using the MNAG/LNAG's or using the TLCSG Lowriders and putting them on upside down as the rod is going to be strictly for casting, not spinning. After seeing what has been suggested I believe I am going to spend some time at the local park and just static cast and dial everything in. I believe
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Getting ready to build a Daiwa Ballistic Saltiga 13' 3" 40-405 to be used with a Saltist 30 BG conventional reel. I cant find any information on potential layouts for this rod and was wondering if anyone had built one in the past and if so with what guides and what placement. Otherwise I'm planning on buying various components and just test casting different layouts.
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Phil, How deep are you cutting with the Forstner bit into the handle? I'm using 3/4 inch foam arbors and was going to use a 3/4 forstner bit but I can't figure out how to extend it long enough to core out a grip. I was looking at an 18 inch 3/4 in drill bit but I think the forstner will give a cleaner cut. I've also seen boring drill bits that are long enough but again figured the forstner wou
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You do not need that much pressure on any type of mandrel, for one if you put too much pressure you will dull your live center and have to replace that and for two you can ruin mandrels like you have already experienced. I only put enough pressure until it begins to get hard to turn the crank. For the longevity of your stuff dont slam the tail stock in place either, just rest it gently and use th
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Bill I planned on doing the foregrip as well by coring out as much as I could without going all the way through, that way the front will be a finished edge but the backside will be all foam core which will be covered by the reel seat. The reel seat spacer will probably be made out of acrylic like my last build and the butt section of grip will be similarly shaped to the new St Croix Inshore Le
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Perfect, that is exactly what I ordered and I didn't see why it wouldn't work. I'm excited to branch out into the wooden grip world as I have been thinking about it for a while now.
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Tom, I'm starting a build now that I will be experimenting with wood handles. Without having a two part eurathane foam, is there any reason why I cant turn the wood handles and bore them out to the same size as a reel seat arbor and then glue them in place onto the reel seat arbors? My train of thought is to turn the handles and bore them to the same diameter of the reel seat arbors, cut to le
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I believe this thread should answer your question or at least help.
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I believe it would still yield enough sensitivity. For your price range I would do a Rainshadow F804-2 the price on the blank is 31 dollars. Its the closest thing I can find to what you're looking for. You could even try the Rainshadow IF793-4 however its 7 ft 9 in and is 4 pieces and price is 60.
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How are you mixing your epoxy? Some epoxies will not cure well if they are not mixed very precisely or if they are mixed in small quantities. Flex Coat for example doesn't set well if mixed in less than 3ML for each part and especially if it is not measured precisely with oral syringes.
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You could try the Phenix Ultra Light FX761-2 or FX801-2 but they are way over your budget as they are 100 for the blank but they're very sensitive rods with a good fast action tip and almost exactly what you're looking for. Otherwise for within the budget I would do the S841-MHX or the S871-2MHX. To cut on overall weight stick with your split grip style but if you want maximum sensitivity you can
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Bill, Have you thought about taking the Rainshadow RX6 F763-2 Fly Blank and taking 6 inches off the blank to make it 7 foot?
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For a very cheap but effective display rack I would make it out of PVC. Doing a simple google image search of PVC fishing rod rack will yield many ideas for building one. For about a dollar a foot its extremely difficult to beat the cost of PVC structures. Ive made everything from kayak carts, to rod holders, to display racks, to many other handy devices. No real measuring involved and everything
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I have begun to religiously use CP for all of my decorative wraps, especially some of the more complex cross wraps and multiple thread wraps. If you don't use it then where your threads overlap you'll get bleed through which drives me crazy. I do two coats of cp and two coats of high build finish and I havent had any issues with bubbles or an uneven surface on the dried finish.
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Do you stand in your kayak at all when you fish or do you primarily sit down? I do about 90% of my fishing out of kayak anywhere from bass fishing ponds to fishing 1-2 miles offshore. Personal preference will play a lot in to what you want for a grip and its length. I like longer grips that way if you use rod holders on your kayak the reel isn't hitting the rod holder at all. I cast 10" rear
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Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > 9 or 10 should be plenty. It's acceptable for the > line to rub the blank a little with micros. Try > to keep the line from dropping below the blank > under load, and when setting up, don't bend the > rod beyond 90-degrees. I second this idea, I have 10 guides on my shallow cranking rod that is a
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The correct model number is OE70MLS , you can see the rod by going to basspro's website and searching extreme jigging rod and click on the spinning model
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This rod is made by Bass Pro Shops and is no longer in production, it is however still made in a 7 foot model 20-50 pound, 2-4.5 oz lure weight, same as the 8 foot model that you are looking for. The only way you will be able to find one is to buy one used. I own the 7 foot model and have used it for heavy pier fishing and cobia fishing in kayak, I have also used it surf fishing for drum as well
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George, I'm using the excel spreadsheet to help layout the original box pattern. Instead of spacing each box out at 1.5 inches for example you use a piece of paper to measure the diameter of the rod at the butt side of the blank where you're pattern will start, the mid point of the section, and the tip side of the section where your decorative wrap will end. By plugging in all three of those m
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John, I just finished my second closed wrap, this time I used the TOS method and it made it come out much more precise. One of the issues I believe I had with this wrap was varying thread tension so it's not as uniform across the pattern, and I believe I went a little large on the box layout making the star a little larger than I had originally planned on. I still have some thread manipulation t
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For this exact same combination I actually use a vertical jigging spinning rod as it will cast upwards of 6 ounces and is plenty heavy enough for catfish which I have caught upwards of 40 and 50 pound blue cats on it. It has a light enough tip that I could probably catch spot and croaker with it but I mainly use it for drum and cobia from piers. This is just another idea to add to your list but c
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I have the 8' version of that rod and it has quite a bit of tip power, I use it for casting 1/2 oz lures in the surf for 30"+ red drum and its perfect for it. It will cast 1 oz but the above statement about losing snap is true.
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John, With the help of Microsoft Excel, BD Ehler's method, and a pair of calipers, I have just finished laying out a new box pattern and I will be doing a St. Johns cross this time. I believe that with using the excel spreadsheet and a pair of calipers my layout will be much more precise. I also used the paper trick that BD Ehler puts in his PDF and when using that side by side with the excel
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Jeremy, I've had about 3 years in retail and I'll be completely honest with you, the first thing to accept is the fact that there will be some customers that are just not going to be a customer for you. No matter what you do there will just be some customers that you won't be able to please, even if you give them a gift card / store credit (depending on how you run business) all the way to a f
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John, I actually laid every thread individually in this wrap, I didn't want to lay two and three threads at a time because I didn't want you to be able to see where I had two and three threads over laying each other at the intersection points. But I just looked at the rod again and I believe what I did was instead of doing the same pattern of wraps, I ended up wrapping in a different sequence
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Tom, Thanks to your help I was able to finish it off tonight. Thanks again!
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I've put a bit less tension on the thread and as I've filled it in the threads are tightening up a lot better now. Thanks for the tips, I'll post the final product on the photos section later tonight / tomorrow when I finish it off.
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