Forum: rodboard

Yes it's possible to remove epoxy from a decal area without damaging the blank ... you have to work very patiently using your fingers, nails or plastic burnishing tools, very carefully, no metal tools. You have to be very carefully on your first cut because normally the damage is done at that point. Just cut very thinly to allow your nails or burnishing tool to peel off the epoxy, but don't go de
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My latest project ... eging rod for fishing squid from shore. It is built on a Japanese T-Russell blank, with Fuji IPS17 reelseat, Fuji Titanium Alconite guides throughout, and Matagi aluminium components. I opted for a cobalt blue color scheme and the rod was built following the Fuji KR Concept with high KL-H reduction guides, followed by KBs and KTs. It is capable of handling up to Egi 4.0 size
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They have my endorsement as well. Excellent customer service!
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Thanks all. Bill, do you mean to train the decal to the roundness of the blank before applying it ?
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I used Flexcoat CP and yes probably didn't mix well and applied too much. Decals are the custom text decals from Mudhole. I don't want to apply them over an epoxy coat as I want it to look thin.
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Hi Chuck, no it has nothing to do with finger prints ... it is all over the place where I applied CP. What do you mean by wrapping over the decal ? wouldn't that hide my decal ? not sure I'm understanding :)
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I've applied the CP over decal to avoid lifting of edges, but after the epox cured, the CP looks very visible like a cloudy dirty shade under the epoxy. Was it because it was too thick ? Can I try some other method for the decal without using CP ? I hate it.
Forum: rodboard

In the beginning I used to experiment with lighters, torches, heat guns ... Now I follow the 'keep it simple' rule and the results are much better. I don't use any direct heat, but I do apply finish on my custom built drying station which has heat lamps positioned above the rod (given that I work in my basement were temperatures are very low in Winter). Other than that, I just use a mechanical mi
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Thanks GetBitOutdoors!
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Heat lamp is better for the job. Be careful not to over do it. 25 W at the right height should be enough.
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Thanks all. Yes Don I use this rod to fish barras from shore. So I did some research and liked this Hawaiian name for this fish! :)
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Hi, second completed project :) Spinning rod built on SCIII St Croix blank, 8'6", 1/4 to 3/4 oz, with Fuji Titanium Alconite guides, Fuji VSS Reel Seat and Matagi aluminium components. Hope you like the photos!
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photos location changed to:
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Thanks David, very helpful.
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Thanks guys. I need it long and 2 pieces because I will be using it from the beach / shore with sandy areas ... as in light surfcasting / beach legering in calm waters. We use this technique for various types of breams, seabass, bottom feeding fish. Was not sure about the fast action because I might be using it with live bait (worms and the like) ...I read somewhere that with live bait you don't
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I am looking for a blank for Carolina rig type of fishing in saltwater with live bait as well as plastics. Looking for a long 2 piece blank which can throw around an oz. Any idea as to what characteristics are best ? Should it be fast or mod fast, and what type of tip would you recommend ? Any blank recommendations ?
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Mamoru (the guy behind Matagi) is very helpful and responsive. Ask him whatever you need and he will guide you. Shipments are usually very prompt and reliable. Use this email: customersv@matagi.co.jp
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Nice technical explanation John. Enjoyed reading it!
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Great. Thanks for your suggestions!
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The blank is a St Croix SCIII - color is Carbon Pearl Finish (standard SCIII color).
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Hi. I'm using regular black thread because I prefer it's deeper color over the black NCP. I do not use CP. however I'm having the polished glossy color of the blank bleed out from under the black thread. Has anyone tried to color the blank underneath the wrap with say, a black permanent marker ? Do not wish to use CP. thanks.
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I've used many and I don't have that impression. Never tried bending them but sometimes I witnessed some really rough handling and they were never damaged in any way. I must clarify that I've only used Fuji ones.
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Hi guys, following the problems that I was having with finish in Winter (attributing my problems to low temperatures), I have built like a Drying Station in my basement using Heat Lamps strategically located over the turning rod. The lamps can be lowered up / down very easily using light brackets normally used for reptile terrariums. It really works nice and I can control the temperature based on
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I got 50W halogen basking lamps usually used in terrariums for reptiles. If placed 30 cm away the radiant heat generates temperatures beneath the lamp of around 80 degrees. One can play with this by moving the lamp further away or closer. I still have to experiment and in fact have an IR Thermometer which I will use to test the temperatures on the surface of the rod.
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yes Russell it might not be amine blush as it didn't went away with water cleaning. Might be the temperatures effects on the curing cycle. I am going to invest in a couple of heat lamps to focus radiant heat on the epoxy during the curing cycle.
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Thanks guys. I've equipped myself with a heat gun and a heat lamp to test things out.
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What do you suggest we do to avoid this Amine Blush ? dehumidify ? heat lamps ? not sure how to eliminate CO2 further, given the place is already well ventilated ...
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Thanks Tom. It's strange that there is CO2 concentration as the basement is well ventilated. What about the cold temperature ? Can it lead to smudgy effect on finish, removing the shiny glossy element ?
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Sometimes I have issues with the quality of the finish - the finish cures well but it forms a slight hazy finish which is only visible under artificial light and when applied on black thread. It's like smudginess / milky appearance. I don't think it's a question of mixing because the finish cures very well and on many occasions I also had perfect quality even on black thread. I noticed that this
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