Thanks guys. Yes Chris it's exactly what I intended. Will try it out and fingers crossed!
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Im trying to fix a finish went wrong after a decal edge lifted. The lifted edge can be cleanly trimmed with a blade but there is also like a small valley in the epoxy (like an inverse lump) which was caused as a result of the edge lifting. I was wondering whether one can fix this without sanding the whole decal area. If only it is possible to put epoxy in the 'valley' maybe 20 mins after mixing i
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Re CP, do you apply it over the whole decal or just on the edges ? Re clamping, do you mean wrapping the whole area just like a guide wrap, leave it for some hours and then remove thread and apply finish ?
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Thanks guys. Do you think I will be able to fix with a blade ? Would you wait for it to harden well before trimming the problem with the blade ?
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I installed a Mud Hole custom decal (peel & stick type) for the first time. I followed the correct procedure, using Scotch tape to handle the decal and avoiding contact with my fingers. I applied it directly to the blank and put a coat of Pro Kote finish over it. After some minutes of drying the decal bottom edge started to lift and peel away from the blank :( I think I will leave it to dr
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Thanks for all your comments guys. Very helpful.
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Hi guys. I'm building my second Fuji KR Concept rod and was wondering what are the factors that need to be considered in choosing the size of the running guides, now that we have more options. For my first KR rod I used 4.5mm running guides and it works great. For this 2nd rod, I intend pairing it with 3000 or 4000 reels having 15-20lb braid - I still want to build a micro rod for shore spinning
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Hi Conner, I'm building a light spinning rod for Seabass (I live and fish in Malta in the middle of the Mediterranean). It's 8.5 feet and to be combined with a Daiwa 2500 reel (Caldia or Certate). Line is exclusively braid up to 12lb, possibly 15lb. In our case we value casting range and fast action mostly ... the Seabass are usually between 1 and3 pounds but we also get a lot of strikes from
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Thanks guys. Probably it's not a big deal, but I will try for a replacement with the manufacturer. I paid 100% of the price at the end of the day, not 98%!
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Jim, Your theory seems to make a lot of sense. In fact in my case the 27x method was placing the choke too far up, while the strict KR concept interpretation was placing all reduction guides on the bottom piece with the choke (KB) right on the ferrule. I suspected that what you said (re line touching ferrule edge) might be a problem, and also I didn't like all reduction guides on the bottom piec
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No it didn't fail - it's still being built. Under static load testing it didn't feel weak at all. Maybe I'm over thinking!
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KLs are used as reduction guides, KTs as running guides ... the ones you mentioned are both Alconite ring with Titanium frame. Check out KBs (TKBAG) for the belly section (i.e. in between the KLs and the KTs). These are important if you're using small guides in the belly section especially with the KR concept positioning. They are more powerful than the KTs, so ideally you would put some KBs in t
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sorry again. Photo is now uploaded correctly!
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Photo attached ...
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I was about to start building on a two piece blank when I realised that there is a slight deformity in the top piece about 3 to 4 inches from the tip. If you look closely you see a slight corkscrew / deformity - it's not a big deal and is not very visible. It can be seen mostly when one turns the rod. Do you think it can undermine the performance or cause rod failure ? or should I just carry on w
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Jim, Moving the choker further out is against the KR concept convention of rapid choking, isn't it ? Even though it makes sense because on long saltwater rods with small reels with large upsweep, the traditional NGC will put the choke too close to the reel and you end up with all reduction guides packed in the first piece of the rod. We discussed this in my case. Conner, I would assume that
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thanks guys. in the end I opted to remove the fore grip ... took me over an hour to rip it off slowly so as not to damage the VSS reel seat. But I think I learnt the lesson :)
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Hi, I have installed a Fuji VSS seat with its Cork grip, and everything is glued in place. While I was planning to install an aluminium winding check where the fore grip meets the blank, I realised that the cork grip is slightly off centre (probably because I was a little bit careless in the reaming). It's not too bad but if I install the check correctly it will accentuate the off centring of
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Guys, a surf road is on my projects 'pipeline' :) Where do you source the Ballistic blanks ? sorry for hijacking the thread Nathan!
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Thanks again guys ... very educational thread. I managed to get the MSDS for ProKote - the guys over there were very helpful and answered clearly all my questions !
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Thanks guys. Maybe using a respirator is a little bit of an overkill, given that I only use 'normal' epoxies (not solvents).
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Hi all, I am a beginner going through my first build ... I am enjoying every bit of it and taking it step by step, doing various 'tests' on scrap blanks before replicating on the real blank and so far I am very pleased. Regarding epoxies I was concerned with some threads in this forum about toxicity and allergies but I don't think the subject was picked up again in recent times. I have used Pr
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