I am a fairly new rod builder (3 to this point) and am thinking that for my next build I would like to build a 2 piece travel rod that I can use in various locations for inshore fishing (snook/redfish/tarpoon). Have always wanted to use a North Folk Composite Blank, and their present sale makes it very possible. The two blanks I have narrowed it down to is; a) HS 761-2 (HM) and the b) HS
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Mick/Rob, Thank you for the help. . Regards GM
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Have just read the article in RodMaker Vol 14 Issue 3 by Tom, entitled "Easy Free-Form Wrapping", where he explains how to add "Free Form Thread" decoration to a blank.As most of you are aware I'm sure, Tom explains how to do this type of decoration to a Blank, my question is; could the same process be used to add a thread decoration to a EVA grip? Can an EVA grip be coated w
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Am presently doing a rather involved cross-wrap where the threads have a tendency of moving as I go from pass to pass despite my every effort to ensure they don't. After doing a search of the Board looking for advice I read that using a drop of CP will help hold threads in place as the wrap progresses. My question is can you use to much CP? I don't mean applying it after every pass, but rather w
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Thanks to all. As the thread is NCP, was not going to use CP, but after all the info will definitely use now. I assume it is also applied to the expose blank area's, followed by epoxy. As always thanks to all for the information and guidence. Regards Geo Miller
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Getting ready to epoxy my 1st crosswrap, and as always have a couple of questions; 1) When putting epoxy on the threads of a "open crosswrap" such as the cheveron pattern, would one normaly protect the exposed portion of the blank or is it epoxied as well? 2) If the blank needs to be protected whats the best way to do it, masking tape? 3) How many coats would one normally apply, i
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Nathan, Help much apprecited. Just finished my 1st Maltese Cross on a practise dowel using your instructions. Worked well. Thanks Geo M
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Have been following this thread with great interest as am also trying my 1st Matlese Cross, but am not having near the success of Nathan. Have read everything written by ED but am missing something. So have a couple of questions if I may; a) Nathan, I think your first example is outstanding. I still can't figure out how to do something with the borders like you have but am working on it. That
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Have "another" question about the placement of a split reel seat, specifically the rear grip. The answer may be so obvious I'm missing it, but as it's my first rod I want to check. Have searched the forum for "spacing of split reel seats" and found a variety of really good advice about determing the location of the seat and grip, (spinning rod) which I actually have no problem
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As always, lots of helpful, informative information. Thank you all. Regards Geo Miller
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This is definety a "newbi" question but can't seem to find the answer anywhere else, so as per usual will ask here. Am getting ready to build my 1st rod, and in order to try and understand the basics am always lurking here, and have just recently been reading Dale Clements book "Advanced Rod Building". Now to the question, have see "balancing a rod" mentioned her
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Fred, Thank you much. G
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Have just started "practising", doing various crosswraps on a dowel to see what pattern I might like to put on the rod I am building. Have done a lot of reading, both here and in other forums about spacing, layout crosses, passes etc., and I have managed to figure out and do most of the simpler patterns, diamond, chevron etc. I am however having a problem figuring out the proper wrappin
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Ellenton
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Bob, Thank you much, now I understand the reasoning. Geo M
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This may be a little off the actual topic, but being a "newbie" I read all threads to see if I can learn anything. In his reply to the original question, Robert Guist, states in part: "Green would be on the bottom and Blue Dun on top, if they follow the usual A under B." Could someone explain that for me? Does it mean that a thread being used as an overwrap, is normally
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Thank you much for all the advice/help, and the various suggestions point of view. Was fishing today, and as Michael kind of suggested I actually noted where my hands were when I cast and what I might do to make the feel even more comfortable. Think I will go with either a split seat or maybe a Fuji VSS seat, whichever feels more comfortable. Also got the point about when/how to use metall
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Roger, Thank you much, appreciate the comments/help. As a first time builder, really shouldn't argue with someone who has done it before but..............that said, I will have to mull over whether I want to change from a split grip, as I really like the increased sensativity a split seat seems to give me, as well as the cosmetics, with fore-grip. My present rods, two 7.5 ft G.Loomis by Te
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Am in the process of building my first rod, and of course have a couple of questions. Just a couple at this point...more to follow I'm sure. Most of my fishing is "flats" fishing for sea trout, snook and reds. As I wanted a 8 FT rod, selected the Batson XP963 as my blank. I intend on using the American Tackle microwave guides and in all probability will fit the rod with a 3000 series
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